I have a 1997 4Runner SR5 with the factory locking rear differential. I need to get the rear diff rebuilt, but I'm trying to save a little money by taking it out myself and dropping it off at the shop rather than taking the whole truck in. I got most of the way there using some of the great write-ups I found on the web, but I am stuck in the final stretch.

I have taken the rear axles out:


Disconnected the drive shaft:


Unbolted most of the diff:



My questions:
Do I need to remove the part that mates with the drive shaft? If so, how is that done?


I don't know if I just suck at this, but I can't seem to disconnect these two plugs. Are there any tricks I should be aware of?


The third cable running above those two connectors just seems to disappear into the assembly. What should I do with it?


And last (hopefully) what else need to be unbolted before the diff detaches and I can pull it out? Does the locker assembly need to be separated?


I'd appreciate any help you guys can offer. Thanks.

 

The pinion flange/driveshaft flange does not need to be disconnected.

The plugs are always a PIA. Id spray down with some cleaner (electro contact cleaner works) to free any dirt. A small flat head screw driver works great for depressing the tabs to release them.

After you pull the bolts/nuts off you may need to also get a paint scraper and free the 3rd from the housing since the sealer usually cements the two parts together.

 

once you get the electrics off, just hit it on the side with a rubber mallet to get it to give from the sealant.

After that you will be able to just pull her out.

 

Yea,they can get really stuck on there..The easiest way is to compress the connector tabs with needle nose pliers and the slowly pry them up with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

another way that works pretty good with the electrical connections is to depress what ever tab is on them and then push the connector together (as if you were putting it together instead of taking it apart) then pull up on it. That usually has a way of unsticking it and making it easier to pull off.

 

That "cable" that dissapears into the body is a vacuum line. I just took all that stuff apart to try and fix my e-locker motor. You can pry it off the actuator with a sharp flat head. Mine took some persuasion.
I had to thump on my third member with a hammer and I used a fat chisel to wedge the third off the axle housing.

 

Don't take all the bolts out before you use a rubber mallet to break the diff free. Leave a couple loosed bolts in there. You don't want it to crash onto the floor or on you!!

 

Thanks for all the help, guys. The push-in/pull-out trick worked great with the electrical connections. And I just yanked the vacuum line (pretty hard) until it popped off. The rubber mallet wasn't able to dislodge the diff, but the chisel trick worked. It will be done being rebuilt by tomorrow, so now I have to work on putting it back in. The last nut I had to remove to unbolt the diff assembly was rusted in place, and I managed to unthread the wrong side:





Is there anything I need to know about setting it back into the rear axle? I was just going to thread it back in until it's tight using some red loctite (after I get the nut unstuck) and let it sit for a day to set.

What is the proper way to seal the differential? The guys at the dealership sold me a $10 paper(?) gasket and said that's all I should need. I would think RTV or some other liquid sealant would be involved somewhere. And how should I clean up the axle side of the housing before reassembly before sealing it? Is scraping it with a paint scrapper good enough?


If any of you guys are thinking of pulling out the diff with the factory e-locker, you'll have to remove the skid plates for the gas tank before to make space for it. I wasted too much time trying to squeeze it out just to save a few minutes of unbolting the skid plate. Lesson learned.

 

Those paper gaskets are very,very thin.I would do a light coat of sealant on both sides of gasket and then install the diff.I use this stuff for everything(trans pans/valve covers),Works as good as the tried and true Toyota FIPG.

For cleaning the surface and getting around the studs use a thin putty knife and brake clean(for the big stuff),followed by a small steel brush and some brake clean and a clean rag for the small stuff...and try not to gouge the surface when cleaning.


You can get it local at NAPA,Autozone,ect: The Right stuff gasket Maker,by permatex:
http://www.amazon.com/Right-Stuff-Ga...9800368&sr=8-4

The rule of thumb for me when I was in the shop on gaskets:

No gasket,sealant only(trans/oil pans/coolant jackets/cam caps,ect):Toyota FIPG or The right stuff gasket maker

Steel compression gaskets(throttle bodys,intakes,ect):do nothing,clean both mating surfaces and install.

O-ring gaskets(thrmostat housings,Water pipes,IAC):coat O-ring with vasoline or O-ring lube and install

Paper gasketets: thin coat both sides with sealant(black high temp RTV)FIPG or the right stuff.

Cork gaskets: Do not use cork gaskets on any toyota made after circa 84'..Toyota does not use them...for a reason........If you have to use one for some reason,use some weahter strip adhesive on one side to keep the cork from shifting during installation..and NO NOT OVER TORQUE THEM,or you will have a bad leak/possible tear the gasket.

 

I had to remove the third in my mom's '04 4Runner because it leaked and was replaced under warranty. 75k later and it leaked again, only this time worse. They just used the paper gasket. What I did was I used some Ultra Black Hi-Temp RTV Gasket stuff, made a small bead (about 1/8 of an inch) on the housing (making circles around the studs) and connecting them with the bead, the paper gasket, then do it again and put the third back in. And it has been great ever since!

Clean it just like 97ltd4x4 said, I used the same method when I did it.

 

I wouldn't even mess with the paper gasket, just throw some sealant on there.

I use the ultra copper permatex

 

Thanks again for all the help. I finished putting the diff back in last week, broke it in, and put some miles on it over the weekend. No leaks or problems yet.

I wish I had the foresight to go with 4.88 gears though. My 265/75 tires are starting to wear and I think I want to move up to 255/85s next.

Anyone interested interested in purchasing (w/trade) a newly rebuilt rear differential w/the factory locker? I'll take your current diff and rebuild it with 4.88 gears...

 

I'll resurrect this thread and take your offer, Sir. Are you still looking for someone to swap diffs with?

 

this is perfect... i just bought a e-locker and i want to put it in myself, i'll be reading alot about the retrofit

 

"That "cable" that dissapears into the body is a vacuum line. I just took all that stuff apart to try and fix my e-locker motor."

Where does said vacuum line disappear to? I purchased and complete axle w/ elocker and wondered where that line goes? I currently do not have the locker working I havent bought the new connections yet so it is just setting at the moment.