Rear Bumpstops on '99 4Runner
07-16-2004 | 07:57 AM
#41
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From: Old Line State
Originally Posted by bamachem
Mine are totally gone, and I get a good bit more stuff than dragr does on the same inclines...
Thanks,
Chris
07-18-2004 | 09:23 AM
#42
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From: Auburn, AL
[QUOTE=dragr1]No need for the front bumpstops, I can't even disconnect right now b/c the 285's I just got will rub like mad. I had to cut my fender flares and pound the pinchweld flat just to run them with the disconnects on. Here is my front suspension and stuff:
OME 882's, one trim packer, OME HD shocks, ARB Prado bumper, Warn M8000 (steel cable), trailcarnage skidplates, diff drop, 16x7 Tacoma wheels, 1/4" cheapo wheel spacer, 285 BFG MT KM's. My inner cv boots touch a little (one fin) and are slowly wearing a groove in one fin, so I've got to be at max possible lift in the front w/o destruction of the cv's.
So now that I know what to do in the back, onto the front. Is it going to take a bodylift for me to clear the 285's with the swaybars disconnected? All my front suspension stuff is listed above.
OME 882's, one trim packer, OME HD shocks, ARB Prado bumper, Warn M8000 (steel cable), trailcarnage skidplates, diff drop, 16x7 Tacoma wheels, 1/4" cheapo wheel spacer, 285 BFG MT KM's. My inner cv boots touch a little (one fin) and are slowly wearing a groove in one fin, so I've got to be at max possible lift in the front w/o destruction of the cv's.
So now that I know what to do in the back, onto the front. Is it going to take a bodylift for me to clear the 285's with the swaybars disconnected? All my front suspension stuff is listed above.
07-18-2004 | 10:38 AM
#44
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
This is alot of heavy stuff, so the 882's are the correct spring, nothing wrong there.
Do you have those big old limited flares?
If so your going to have to do the 1" BL.
Do you have those big old limited flares?
If so your going to have to do the 1" BL.
I'm thinking about removing the flares anyway. But the pinch weld area is really where I hit.
07-24-2004 | 07:43 PM
#45
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by dragr1
I've had this setup for about 20,000 miles now and I've had the rear maxed out numerous times and have never had the driveshaft hit-that is one reason that I thought there might be some more flex to be had in the rear.
Correction here, I was under my 4Runner today and noticed that part of my driveshaft has been slightly touching the fuel tank skid at full flex. I flexed it today and sure enough there was a slight bit, very slight, bit of touching between the driveshaft and fuel tank skid. So, I guess that I'm really at full flex in the back.
07-25-2004 | 08:08 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by dragr1
I'm thinking about removing the flares anyway. But the pinch weld area is really where I hit.
Originally Posted by dragr1
Correction here, I was under my 4Runner today and noticed that part of my driveshaft has been slightly touching the fuel tank skid at full flex. I flexed it today and sure enough there was a slight bit, very slight, bit of touching between the driveshaft and fuel tank skid. So, I guess that I'm really at full flex in the back.
07-25-2004 | 08:50 AM
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After seeing FearToys upper spring pearch almost completely tore away from the frame, I may have to remove the center cone, his were still in place. But what caused his problem could have been the way Camburg attached his rear shocks, they moved the mounting point aprox. 3" inward and welded 2 tabs to the edge of the perch, the additional leverage added to this location just flexed it to the point of failure. I very surprised Dave didn't notice it, but he said the day before he was out at Hammers. The other side was just fine no signs of stress that lead up to the LR break.
I won't do anything with my bumpstops until I get the rear suspension re-worked. Once I'm able to max out my flex, I know I'll have to build stops to prevent the tire from rubbing against the inner wheel well/ frame.
I won't do anything with my bumpstops until I get the rear suspension re-worked. Once I'm able to max out my flex, I know I'll have to build stops to prevent the tire from rubbing against the inner wheel well/ frame.
07-25-2004 | 09:22 AM
#49
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From: NM
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
I forgot, Jim in Moab has the same custom front and rear bumpstops I have, he has the new Dr. Z inspired version.
So all the 4Runners in Moab except for Brown had them.
So all the 4Runners in Moab except for Brown had them.
Have I now been kicked out of the 4Runner class?
07-25-2004 | 09:22 AM
#50
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by BruceTS
Take a big hammer and pound the firewall back about a 1/2", if that don't help you'll have to cut. I had to cut out quite a bit to get my tires to clear, but on FearToys rig he didn't do much at all. I guess Camburg moved his wheels foward for clearance. I know Steve's still rubs at full compression, mine only rubbed during a hard hit where my body moved on the frame by nearly 2 inches.....
My pinchweld is already pounded flat-you're saying the actual metal part of the wheel well? That area that sticks out a little is where it hits. I should take a pic here-I'll do that in a little while. Is there anything behind that area and that could be damaged by pounding it in?
Check to see if the grease fitting on the driveshaft is still there, they usually break off when the shaft hits the plate. I've already replaced 2 of them. I ended up taking a hammer and pounding the spot on my skid plate in against the fuel tank for clearance.
My pinchweld is already pounded flat-you're saying the actual metal part of the wheel well? That area that sticks out a little is where it hits. I should take a pic here-I'll do that in a little while. Is there anything behind that area and that could be damaged by pounding it in?
Check to see if the grease fitting on the driveshaft is still there, they usually break off when the shaft hits the plate. I've already replaced 2 of them. I ended up taking a hammer and pounding the spot on my skid plate in against the fuel tank for clearance.
I also have bent the drivers side rear lower control arm and mount. I'll be doing the redneck fix for that-1"x1" metal welded to the bottom of the arm for now. It was probably the same rock that put the dents in my gas tank skid. Welcome to the world of rocks I guess!
07-25-2004 | 09:25 AM
#51
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From: NM
Originally Posted by dragr1
The grease fitting is still there, it's actually hitting where the driveshaft flange bolts to the third. I should take a pic of that too. I'll probably be reshaping the gas tank skid soon with that same big hammer.
I also have bent the drivers side rear lower control arm and mount. I'll be doing the redneck fix for that-1"x1" metal welded to the bottom of the arm for now. It was probably the same rock that put the dents in my gas tank skid. Welcome to the world of rocks I guess!
I also have bent the drivers side rear lower control arm and mount. I'll be doing the redneck fix for that-1"x1" metal welded to the bottom of the arm for now. It was probably the same rock that put the dents in my gas tank skid. Welcome to the world of rocks I guess!
cheap
07-25-2004 | 09:28 AM
#52
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by BruceTS
After seeing FearToys upper spring pearch almost completely tore away from the frame, I may have to remove the center cone, his were still in place. But what caused his problem could have been the way Camburg attached his rear shocks, they moved the mounting point aprox. 3" inward and welded 2 tabs to the edge of the perch, the additional leverage added to this location just flexed it to the point of failure. I very surprised Dave didn't notice it, but he said the day before he was out at Hammers. The other side was just fine no signs of stress that lead up to the LR break.
I won't do anything with my bumpstops until I get the rear suspension re-worked. Once I'm able to max out my flex, I know I'll have to build stops to prevent the tire from rubbing against the inner wheel well/ frame.
I won't do anything with my bumpstops until I get the rear suspension re-worked. Once I'm able to max out my flex, I know I'll have to build stops to prevent the tire from rubbing against the inner wheel well/ frame.
07-25-2004 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dragr1
I'm probably going to cutoff the bottom portion of the cone and leave the top part in. And eventually get Steve's bumpstop adapter and the Daystar bumpstop. Although, if I removed the cone completely, the back end would be 1/2" lower and then maybe I could hook up to my pop up camper w/o having to get people to stand on the bumper! With nothing above the rear spring, I bet there would be some annoying noise coming from that metal to metal contact under flex. I also need to get a panhard drop.
This is what I have in the works for my rig;
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/acos.html
The ACOS system will be fitted to the back after I remove the existing mounts, then I'll fabricate a clamp to hold the lower part of the spring to the axle. This will allow the spring to drop off the top pearch, without falling out, during extreme flex.
07-25-2004 | 12:28 PM
#55
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by BruceTS
I guess I can let the cat out of the bag
This is what I have in the works for my rig;
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/acos.html
The ACOS system will be fitted to the back after I remove the existing mounts, then I'll fabricate a clamp to hold the lower part of the spring to the axle. This will allow the spring to drop off the top pearch, without falling out, during extreme flex.
This is what I have in the works for my rig;
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/acos.html
The ACOS system will be fitted to the back after I remove the existing mounts, then I'll fabricate a clamp to hold the lower part of the spring to the axle. This will allow the spring to drop off the top pearch, without falling out, during extreme flex.
07-25-2004 | 12:35 PM
#57
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by BruceTS
yep, I'll probably be using jeep springs as well
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/jksusc.html
I've actually thought of this conversion to run regular shocks in the rear and have more choices for shocks. I saw this part on another site:
http://www.rocky-road.com/pinadapt.html
07-25-2004 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dragr1
Are you going to be relocating the shocks
Originally I wanted C&R motorsports to do my complete rear set-up, but he never returned any of my calls or e-mails, but after seeing Kevin's rig out at Hammers, the only thing that grabbed my attention was the spring mounting system.
07-25-2004 | 02:00 PM
#59
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by BruceTS
yes the shocks will be relocated, probably behind the axle, but I'm not sure yet, there are issues with the e-brake linkage. As for where I got my idea for my rear coil mounts, it's from Kevin Carey's rig; http://www.pirate4x4.com/productrevi...rts/index.html
Originally I wanted C&R motorsports to do my complete rear set-up, but he never returned any of my calls or e-mails, but after seeing Kevin's rig out at Hammers, the only thing that grabbed my attention was the spring mounting system.
Originally I wanted C&R motorsports to do my complete rear set-up, but he never returned any of my calls or e-mails, but after seeing Kevin's rig out at Hammers, the only thing that grabbed my attention was the spring mounting system.
08-15-2004 | 05:05 PM
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by bamachem
Mine are totally gone, and I get a good bit more stuff than dragr does on the same inclines. I also don't get enough droop to come close to hitting the gas tank, but that's going to change really soon... 
I vote for at least taking a hack saw to the bottom button on the bumpstop - maybe even the bottom three and add some air bags for towing - you'd be VERY suprised w/ the difference. When you go offroad, you simply remove the stem from the valve for the bags and they completely compress w/o limiting travel. I'm seriously considering getting some more air bags for the rear coils. If I do, the conical bumpstops will go back in (trimmed) and the bags underneath them.
Here's some pics with the rear stuffed. That's Downey 3.5" rears w/ OEM shocks. I'll be ditching the OEM shocks soon...
http://4rnr.net/rides/tellico-07-10-04/images/t-04.jpg
http://4rnr.net/rides/tellico-07-10-04/images/t-05.jpg
http://4rnr.net/rides/tellico-07-10-04/images/t-06.jpg
I vote for at least taking a hack saw to the bottom button on the bumpstop - maybe even the bottom three and add some air bags for towing - you'd be VERY suprised w/ the difference. When you go offroad, you simply remove the stem from the valve for the bags and they completely compress w/o limiting travel. I'm seriously considering getting some more air bags for the rear coils. If I do, the conical bumpstops will go back in (trimmed) and the bags underneath them.Here's some pics with the rear stuffed. That's Downey 3.5" rears w/ OEM shocks. I'll be ditching the OEM shocks soon...
http://4rnr.net/rides/tellico-07-10-04/images/t-04.jpg
http://4rnr.net/rides/tellico-07-10-04/images/t-05.jpg
http://4rnr.net/rides/tellico-07-10-04/images/t-06.jpg
http://community.webshots.com/album/175429955ueygGZ
Rear conical bumpstops trimmed in half and Inland A-arms are installed. The swaybar is still connected and the driveshaft is hitting the gas tank skid even more now. The rear tires stuff pretty good-almost touching the upper rear fenderwell. Now I need to try disconnecting the front swaybar after a little more reshaping of the front fenderwell.
