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Rear axel seal is leaking... 3rd gen 4runner
11-29-2010 | 10:57 PM
#41
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 228
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I am following along on this and would welcome an opinion on whether or not to go ahead and just do the rear bearing seals before they act up (leak) or simply wait to see if they are going to do so...
Also is the extended rear breather mod actually helping this situation or unrelated?
Special thanks to mr schuster an actual (former)Toyota tech with the experience on the job with our rigs.
Also is the extended rear breather mod actually helping this situation or unrelated?
Special thanks to mr schuster an actual (former)Toyota tech with the experience on the job with our rigs.
Twice now, on seperate 4Runners, I've had small rear axle seal leaks. Both times I replaced the diff breather, the leaking stopped, and I never even messed with the axle seal. I have them sitting on the shelf....but didn't see a huge reason to make time to change them....especially since "4Runner" work time is scarce these days....
12-01-2010 | 08:32 AM
#42
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Contributing Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,040
Likes: 2
From: USA-PA
Its been a while since I worked at the dealer, but when I was there we replaced axle seals on almost every Sequoia and 4runner in our area. The inner seal would leak and the rear shoes would become saturated in gear oil. Worst I have seen was a locked up wheel because of the brakes swelling up due to saturated linings. Finally Tech support started helping us out a little by asking us not to install new seals flush against the inner axle housing. We were told the seal itself was not at fault, but the metal ring which resides behind the ABS ring was not properly placed on the axle itself. Engineering flaw. The outer ring on the axle is what the seal rides against. We would apply a light coat of white lithum grease to the axle ring and reinstall the axle into the housing then spin the axle one or two times. Then carefully removing the axle you could see where the seal had been riding on the axle ring, if at all. We would take a measurement with a dial caliper of where the seal was originally and where it needed to be. Removed the old seal and replaced the new one further forward from the old seal by the measurment taken. Sounds like a pain and it was, hopefully they have modified the seal to correct the problem, but if not try to do this if your truck is out of warranty.
12-02-2010 | 07:30 AM
#44
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 37
From: Seattle, WA
Thanks for bumping this again. 
My rear-passenger side is leaking. Dealership quoted me at $188.15 to fix. After looking at those write-ups though, I could easily use the shop at work on a weekend to get this done. Back to about the dealership, they put down 2 parts on the list; "Seal, Type K Oil (TO90313-48001)" and "Seal, Type S Oil (TO90310-50006)". Guess I should just go with both of them then when I go to tackle the job myself? Anyone suggest I do anything else?
My rear-passenger side is leaking. Dealership quoted me at $188.15 to fix. After looking at those write-ups though, I could easily use the shop at work on a weekend to get this done. Back to about the dealership, they put down 2 parts on the list; "Seal, Type K Oil (TO90313-48001)" and "Seal, Type S Oil (TO90310-50006)". Guess I should just go with both of them then when I go to tackle the job myself? Anyone suggest I do anything else?
12-02-2010 | 03:00 PM
#45
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 570
Likes: 0
From: Outer Banks, NC
So Cody, the dealer is going to change both the inner and outer seals, but not replace the bearing, ring, ABS skid control rotor (if you have it) and other stuff that has to be pressed off to get to the outer seal? Take pictures if your dealer can do that for $188.
I'd change the bearing and other axle parts if attempting to change the outer axle seal. Otherwise, $13 for a pair of inner axle seals, two hours for both sides if you can get the drums off with ease and the shoes are not covered in fluid....
I'd change the bearing and other axle parts if attempting to change the outer axle seal. Otherwise, $13 for a pair of inner axle seals, two hours for both sides if you can get the drums off with ease and the shoes are not covered in fluid....
12-03-2010 | 07:30 AM
#46
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 37
From: Seattle, WA
So Cody, the dealer is going to change both the inner and outer seals, but not replace the bearing, ring, ABS skid control rotor (if you have it) and other stuff that has to be pressed off to get to the outer seal? Take pictures if your dealer can do that for $188.
I'd change the bearing and other axle parts if attempting to change the outer axle seal. Otherwise, $13 for a pair of inner axle seals, two hours for both sides if you can get the drums off with ease and the shoes are not covered in fluid....
I'd change the bearing and other axle parts if attempting to change the outer axle seal. Otherwise, $13 for a pair of inner axle seals, two hours for both sides if you can get the drums off with ease and the shoes are not covered in fluid....
I also need new brakes in the rear extremely bad, so choice 2 would probably be my best advantage. I work at a Ford dealership, and they quoted me at $223 for both rear brake shoes with right rear axle seal. They didn't put any item numbers down like Toyota did when I checked there, but I would be getting the same parts. I have to research around to see how much just the parts would be to do this myself. And yes, I can supply pictures.
05-01-2012 | 07:58 AM
#47
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 360
Likes: 2
When I first notice my axle seals leaking on our 99 SR5 it was after changing to M1 75W90 gear oil. Would moving to RP 75W140 be any better? Seems like anytime I read people using M1, leaks are usually soon to follow.
05-01-2012 | 01:14 PM
#48
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 570
Likes: 0
From: Outer Banks, NC
DrCoffee,
With the age of your axle seals, you could have switched to straight 90 diff oil and the leaks would have arrived sooner than later.
Having used the M1 75w in the diff, I actually found in my own experience that running an 80w seems to make my diff less chatty, not taking anything away from Mobil 1's 75w-90. Try Mobil's 80w-90, they make it. My personal favorite, and 41,000 miles leak free since my repair, has been Chevron's Delo 400 80w-90, which has to be procured at a Chevron distributor.
With the age of your axle seals, you could have switched to straight 90 diff oil and the leaks would have arrived sooner than later.
Having used the M1 75w in the diff, I actually found in my own experience that running an 80w seems to make my diff less chatty, not taking anything away from Mobil 1's 75w-90. Try Mobil's 80w-90, they make it. My personal favorite, and 41,000 miles leak free since my repair, has been Chevron's Delo 400 80w-90, which has to be procured at a Chevron distributor.
05-03-2012 | 08:15 AM
#51
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 360
Likes: 2
Edit:
I started a new thread and I'll be checking back periodically to update it.
possible solution to leaking axle seals
I started a new thread and I'll be checking back periodically to update it.
possible solution to leaking axle seals
Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 06-02-2012 at 03:48 AM.
05-24-2012 | 11:13 AM
#52
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 513
Likes: 1
From: Florida
Are your seals leaking again? I just noticed that my passenger side rear axle is leaking. This is the first time so I'll be replacing the inner seal tomorrow. Hopefully the bearing and outer seal is still good.
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