Radius arm hitting front coil under compression
#21
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I haven't heard of offset ball joints for these year trucks.
I have never seen this happen before either. I am assuming there is just too much lift.
Can we get a picture of the angle of your lower A-arm at stock ride height?
I have never seen this happen before either. I am assuming there is just too much lift.
Can we get a picture of the angle of your lower A-arm at stock ride height?
#22
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in order to do that, i would have to take the spacers out and bolt it back up. but when i had the stock suspension, i could go as fast as i wanted without anything hitting..
#23
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Your just getting to much droop because with that style lift, you have lengthened the whole shock assembly an extra 1.5 inches (the thickness of the spacer on top of the strut). That is changing the geometry differently than a coil spacer in the strut assembly would because your not lengthening the shock. Typically for our 4wd rigs the recomended size spacer on top of the strut assembly is 3/8"....I don't think you would be having this problem with a 3/8" spacer (.75" lift) with like a 2 inch lift in the strut assembly for a total lift of about 2.75". Also the spacer that would go in the strut assembly for a 2" lift does not physically measure 2", its smaller. Its the way it changes the geometry that gets you the lift. Hope that makes sense
#24
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Hiho, Tacorinos.
I did a little more bolting and fiddling myself, and 'Runner's right about one inch being more than one inch when it's a top-hat spacer.
Grinding the lumps off the steering knuckle helps, but does not solve the problem of contact if you're drooping all the way so the knuckle is hitting the spring. I'm going to converse with Total Chaos tomorrow, see if their extended upper arms allow for this (there's a nice uniball upper mount for the knuckle in there, and it looks more flexible).
There's also about an inch of adjustability in the inner-lower A-arm adjuster in the front suspension cradle, and you can crank that out for a little more clearance. It would help with your alignment too.
STICK
I did a little more bolting and fiddling myself, and 'Runner's right about one inch being more than one inch when it's a top-hat spacer.
Grinding the lumps off the steering knuckle helps, but does not solve the problem of contact if you're drooping all the way so the knuckle is hitting the spring. I'm going to converse with Total Chaos tomorrow, see if their extended upper arms allow for this (there's a nice uniball upper mount for the knuckle in there, and it looks more flexible).
There's also about an inch of adjustability in the inner-lower A-arm adjuster in the front suspension cradle, and you can crank that out for a little more clearance. It would help with your alignment too.
STICK
#25
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Hiho, Tacorinos.
I did a little more bolting and fiddling myself, and 'Runner's right about one inch being more than one inch when it's a top-hat spacer.
Grinding the lumps off the steering knuckle helps, but does not solve the problem of contact if you're drooping all the way so the knuckle is hitting the spring. I'm going to converse with Total Chaos tomorrow, see if their extended upper arms allow for this (there's a nice uniball upper mount for the knuckle in there, and it looks more flexible).
There's also about an inch of adjustability in the inner-lower A-arm adjuster in the front suspension cradle, and you can crank that out for a little more clearance. It would help with your alignment too.
STICK
I did a little more bolting and fiddling myself, and 'Runner's right about one inch being more than one inch when it's a top-hat spacer.
Grinding the lumps off the steering knuckle helps, but does not solve the problem of contact if you're drooping all the way so the knuckle is hitting the spring. I'm going to converse with Total Chaos tomorrow, see if their extended upper arms allow for this (there's a nice uniball upper mount for the knuckle in there, and it looks more flexible).
There's also about an inch of adjustability in the inner-lower A-arm adjuster in the front suspension cradle, and you can crank that out for a little more clearance. It would help with your alignment too.
STICK
#27
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Hello again.
The extended upper arms only extend a little bit (and not all of them - check with each vendor for your application), and only help with the interference issue a little bit, as in a slight increase in droop. The long arms fix things better, but necessitate bigger fenders. You might have too much spacer.
Don't forget to kick out the lower A-arm-to-frame mounts. You might also try and hunt down a set of the high-angle ball joints. Grinding was the fix for interference with the Tundra lift, but your spacers might be too... spacey.
STICK
The extended upper arms only extend a little bit (and not all of them - check with each vendor for your application), and only help with the interference issue a little bit, as in a slight increase in droop. The long arms fix things better, but necessitate bigger fenders. You might have too much spacer.
Don't forget to kick out the lower A-arm-to-frame mounts. You might also try and hunt down a set of the high-angle ball joints. Grinding was the fix for interference with the Tundra lift, but your spacers might be too... spacey.
STICK
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