I have a 2000 4Runner (5speed manual). The check engine light has been on for a while claiming "Right bank running lean" but intermittent... (or something close to that - don't remember the code). Also, there seems to be a hesitation when I press the gas. Like when in neutral the tac starts to climb initially then quickly drops down and begins to climb again.

Seems like a fuel injector problem. Though someone suggested the MAF Sensor which I couldnt remove b/c the screws were stuck) I took it to the dealer today to get an estimate. Waiting on that now.

My question is. With 126k miles, I was thinking of having them replace the Timing belt and Water Pump (and drive belt). If they are going in to replace the injectors, are they close the to timing belt? SHould I expect a lesser labor rate for already being in there to replace it.

A quick answer is appreciated as I'm awaiting their call. Thanks

 

Sounds like you MAF sensor is the culprit, P0171 should be the code.... The stealership will charge you a small fortune to fix the problem. I doubt there is a injector problem......

Doing the timming belt is different location...............

 

welcome to yotatech ....i would start with small stuff first and see if that helps

 

Thanks,

So they called me back. They say they need to replace the Air Flow sensor (MAF I guess) and the Ox Sensors 1 & 2. That will cost me $915 for parts and labor.

(then of course they say they recommend EFI service, carbon buildup cleaning, replacing a drive belt, plug cables, etc. - which is a way out for them if the MAF didnt solve the problem... So I'm not biting)

It's higher than I wanted to spend, but I'm happy to know they didn't want to replace the fuel injectors (which was what I expected)

I'm gonna get my car and take it to my mechanic (who thought it might be the injectors) and have him replace just the MAF and see if that solves the problem.

I'll let you know what happens. Hopefully I'm up and running like new soon.

Thanks for the help.

Fish
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wait dont go spending money on stuff you may not even need first clean the maf sensor reset the computer and see if the codes come back if so have them pulled

 

I agree with Elton, try a little harder to get those screws unstuck and clean that MAF sensor, and reset your computer, and I bet your codes worries are over and done with. And its practically free. If you insist on professional help, have him clean the MAF sensor before replacing anything.

 

I'm not so much worried about the warning light as much as I am about the hesitation. would the MAF affect that?

Thanks guys.

 

They want to replace the post-cat sensor? Those rarely go out, if ever. In fact, they have about 10% duty anyway. It's the front one that matters. They are trying to take you for a ride.

MAFS replacement or cleaning is as easy as undoing (3) 10mm bolts (intake clamp and two on the sensor housing), unplugging the harness, pulling off the intake tube, and then R&R.

Do you run a K&N air filter by any chance?

 

My truck had the exact symptoms you described. The fix? Remove the MAF sensor and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. The cost? $2.