I am still trying to get my rear window/hatch back to operational status. I can hear the motor running so it must be thr "regulator" right? I was looking at pictures of them on line and am 100% confused. Exactly what in the assembly breaks that renders the window motionless? It to me looks like some gears and levers, very simple, to those that have already travled this path, please enlighten me. I must be missing something. If it is not the motor or regulator, is there another part I have overlooked. I just dont see how without stripping teeth this thing could wear out. Please, do tell.

Lamm

 

If you hear the motor working then I am guessing the window is maybe either off track or the regulator rivet is broken causing all to move except the window. Tear it all apart and check it out. Just my 2 el centito's. Blue

 

Hey Blue, I have had the window torn apart as much as I dare. Haynes dedicated a whole 12 square inches to the 4runner hatch, idiots. Anyway, the window can be used if one person pushes the button and another pushes/pulls on the window so it is not off track or anything, I checked that. Could you elaborate on the "rivit", that may be it... Thanks for the help.

Lamm

 

How is a 2nd person able to get a hold of the window to push/pull? If the window works when someone assists it it is not off track and the rivet is not broke. So when you get the window to work does it work fast or sluggish? Do you hear scraping or popping? Sounds like a weak part or blockage being the window catching somewhere IMO. Blue

 

You just put your hand on it, press hard and push down. When it has to go up, I tear off the tailgate cover and push up on the bottem of the window. This must be done while simultainiously operating the motor. It worked for about a week after I got it, every time it got a little worse and one time I put it uo and that was it, no more. When I was inspecting it though, you can clearly, see/hear the motor operating, nothing happens though. Sort of like a truck with a slipping clutch. I am just stumped. It dosen't catch anywhere, I cleaned, greeses or silocon lubed everything involved.

Lamm

 

Hey guy! On my old truck it was the side window that gave up the ghost (it was a manual ) if some one (me) pushed up on the window (or down ) and cranked it worked fine. The problem was that the crank gears were partially stripped and needed help to lift the window. It sounds like you have the same problem the motor is turning but the gear it is trying to turn is stripped either at the crank end or it could also be the pully on the motor end. I think the only thing to do is pull the whole thing a part and see what you've got. worst case senario if you can't fix it you've saved some money on labour time when you take it to a professional to get it done. Hope this helps a little Aviator

 

If it works fine when you disturb it by putting pressure on the window I would say its the contacts in the motor. Kind of like a starter motor. When they go bad the solinoid does not want to enguage but if you tap it its likely to start. Will the motor work at all without touching the window by just pressing the switch button? If it will not I suggest replacing the motor. But thats just what I would do and I am not telling you that you need to do it. Blue

 

There are two metal brackets that form an "v" figure and they pivot from the center and extend to each side. One, or both, of yours has come detatched. It's a cheap spot weld holding them I think. All I did was remove the panel, extend the window, place the frame arm in the right spot for that particular extension of window length and then put a small tack weld on the frame and the brace. Worked quite well for me, anyway. I don't have any diagram, and I'm working from memory here, but I recall the bracket arm being a brassy colour, if that helps

 

When the window is forced to go up/down, is it sort of ratcheting while it moves? This is an indication of teeth stripped off of the motor. (I had this last summer).

Sounds like some binding in the side tracks to me. Helping it up/down is preventing it from messing up the motor/regulator further. I would thoroughly douse the side tracks with spray silicone and any other rubber pieces that could restrict the motion of the window. Also check the track attached to the bottom of the window for debris and/or rust damage.

The roll up rear window on the 2nd Gen is the second largest achilles heel of the rig (but I still love it). First is the 3.yoyo.

 

I would tear into the whole assembly and check it out. It might be as simple as it's just totally nasty in there with dirt on the tracks and the window is hanging up on it. I take mine completely apart once a year and lube everything. If you snap the latches that hold the gate closed with the gate open you can trick the motor into working with the gate open and roll it in and out so you can lube the track. Once you tear into that cover there's a metal piece and behind that is some plastic. Take care removing the plastic because you'll want to seal it back up again to keep moisture and dust out of the tailgate. It's not all that cosmic in there really...

 

Hey guys,

Wow, a lot of possibilites here. Heres what I have concluded, the tracks are clear and lubed and the attachments to the bottem of the window are rusty, but attached firmly. The motor works on its own, without and motivation and you can see/hear it running. The motor can not even budge the window on its own now, when it was still working it was sort of "Ratchety" untill it failed. I have had the thing torn apart several times and although dirty, it is free of obstructoins. Also, when the tailgate is down and open for inspection, I can easily push the window in and out. This and other things lead me to belive that Cebby's sugestion is correct. If the teeth are stripped off the motor, gan I just get a new gear and put it on, or do I need a new motor? If I need a new motor, I have herd that any window motor from a 4Runner works, true? If anyone can help me out here that would be swell, or if anybody has any other ideas as to what the problem could be, I'm all ears. As always, thanks a lot.

Lamm

 

You cannot replace the gear on the motor. (I took mine apart when I replaced it - there was a whole bunch of crud IN the motor - they aren't sealed very well) These motors appear to be built for a limited life as the carrier for the metal gear is plastic. You need a "new" one. I've heard that the driver's door window is the same motor FWIW. Bend over, they're pricey!!

To replace the motor, you need to remove the window and regulator from the tailgate. The regulator is spring loaded, so be careful. I knew I should have documented this when I replaced both the motor and regulator last summer...

If you have any specific questions, just ask. How far is Canton from Pittsburgh anyway?

 

Yep,
Plastic parts that can't be bought separately. I got a new one off a wrecked runner and it was 200 +.

 

Thanks Cebby, I will have to do some scrounging around at the local salvage yards. Pittsburg is a mere 2 hour drive on a bad day from Canton, maybe when the time comes you feel like helping out a young whippersnapper? Anyway, thanks for the info guys, the weather is nice today so I will tear it all apart and pin down the prob. 100% Thanks again,

Lamm

 

I agree it sounds like worn gears, because of the ratcheting. For my friends '90 runner, we used a rear drivers side motor from a '91 Camry (figured the rear window motor had less wear). $10 well spent.

I uplugged the two white plugs at the lower corners to trick the motor into working while open.