purchased remote start, need help installing/wires
03-08-2005 | 09:21 PM
#1
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purchased remote start, need help installing/wires
Edited because this long first post help is not needed, look down for current help needed, hahaha.
ill post all the wire colors and locations, good for anyone else installing any kind of alarm/remote start
ill post all the wire colors and locations, good for anyone else installing any kind of alarm/remote start
Last edited by dibble9012; 03-14-2005 at 06:03 AM.
03-09-2005 | 06:27 AM
#5
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From: Richmond, Va
150 bucks isn't a lot for an install. I understand it is, when you don't have, but this is a fairly involved install and if done wrong, your truck might not start or disrarm.
If you need you can always call a local shop. MAybe Tweeters in Fredricksburg or someone in Richond. If oyu need shop names, let me know
If you need you can always call a local shop. MAybe Tweeters in Fredricksburg or someone in Richond. If oyu need shop names, let me know
03-09-2005 | 06:39 AM
#6
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From: Montreal, QC Canada
Originally Posted by dibble9012
This is going to be a loooong post, lol. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys helped me out, I really did not want to spend $150 to get it installed. I have some questions hooking it up though, I looked on 12volt already and that got me going, they just don’t have all the information I need. I scanned in my whole manual here, it wasn’t on their website anymore. You should view them full screen (sorry dialup users) and I made sure nothing was cut off, I will refer to the pages as the file names, 0, 1,2,3,etc. Toyota security wires is off of 12volt.com.
On PG 1:
(-) factory security disarm: It says on 12volt that the alarm disarm works with the door locks. Do I still need to hook this up? If I do, do I have to use a relay, manual says it’s a (-) pulse, but also says to use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse. Same goes for alarm arm
If you still have the factory alarm installed in the truck I suggest taking it out because even when you use the disarm I have seen people have problems with the 2 systems fighting each other, so if you have one pull it out and make some $$$ selling it on ebay. If your truck never had one, no worries, just tie this wire up.
(-) Activation input: Manual says you need two ground pulses on the white/blue wire, what does this mean, do I have to hook it up to the momen. switch? (mom. switch has its own harness, doesn’t look like you would tap that. no clue on this one, hahaha.
I didn't use this....and you can do the same from the remote....tie it up.
Sorry guys there’s more, thanks for reading this far!! I need all the help I can get, I will definitely make a write up for this for future people!
On PG 3:
Relay key switch interface: says not to use any weak connections, should I solder? what other options
RED (2) (+)12v input for relays: this is constant 12v right? on the 12volt, it said white or white red, which one is constant, or are both?
PINK (+) ignition output 1, black/red
ORANGE (+) accessory output: blue/red, just to verify
PURPLE (+) starter output: green/black, again, just to verify with you guys
PINK/WHITE (+) output to second ignition/accessory circuit, black/yellow
I personally prefer to solder all my connections but it is especially important with these because they carry some decent current. Check my pics for wire colors.
Remote start harness:
BLACK/WHITE neutral/park safety switch input: I have no clue where this wire is, it’s not on the 12volt. what’s the toggle switch there for? Just to test the system or something, I ask because if it’s a switch I will hardly use, I will put it somewhere out of the way.
If you have an automatic (which I hope you do) you don't need to hook up this wire because it is unable to start execpt in park or neutral anyway....so tie this one up too.
VIOLET/WHITE tach input: black AC, on diagnostic connector, 1st what does AC mean, 2nd, which diagnostic connector, the one under the hood, or the connector under the dash?
I took input from the back of the instrument cluster, look at my pics and you'll see where to get it.
On PG 4
BROWN (+) brake switch input: green/white? I looked near the brake pedal, and I see a switch, but which wire would get 12v when the pedal is depressed?
You need to get a multimeter and check....I don't remember offhand.
GRAY (-) hood pin switch: got a switch in the kit, but on the 12volt, says there is already one on the 4runner? I haven’t seen it, lol, supposedly, green/orange in the DR firewall, grey 26 pin connector. anyone confirm this, I don’t think there’s a pin switch already.
Mine did not have one so i just installed the one that came with the kit and ran the wire back through the firewall.
BLUE/WHITE status defogger output: I would use it for defog. The wire is behind the switch on the dash, but is mixed with other wires (ECT). which wire would I hook this up to for defog? Would I use pulsed or latched?
I don't think I ever used this feature so you'd need to figure this one out.
On PG 7:
Please explain what I would need to do, what wire, relays, for door lock setup on the 4runner. I believe its type B: but I’m not sure.
Yes, it is type B....look at my pics.
On PG 10: where did you guys place the program switch? I know it’s a matter or preference, but just wondering. I think ill place mine to the left of the security module on the left of the steering wheel.
I put the valet/program switch on the top of the kickpanel.
Well that’s it until I think of something else, lol. If you read this far I really appreciate it, I know this is a long thread, and it has some questions with obvious answers, but I just want to make sure everything will be ok, and I won’t kill my truck. I’m great with electronics, it’s just when I saw all the wires that I need to tap, and find, I got a little confused/worried, it will be great when I get it working though! Like I said, ill make a write up for anyone else that will need it in the future, including wire colors and locations, put all of our information together in one place! Thanks!!!!
On PG 1:
(-) factory security disarm: It says on 12volt that the alarm disarm works with the door locks. Do I still need to hook this up? If I do, do I have to use a relay, manual says it’s a (-) pulse, but also says to use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse. Same goes for alarm arm
If you still have the factory alarm installed in the truck I suggest taking it out because even when you use the disarm I have seen people have problems with the 2 systems fighting each other, so if you have one pull it out and make some $$$ selling it on ebay. If your truck never had one, no worries, just tie this wire up.
(-) Activation input: Manual says you need two ground pulses on the white/blue wire, what does this mean, do I have to hook it up to the momen. switch? (mom. switch has its own harness, doesn’t look like you would tap that. no clue on this one, hahaha.
I didn't use this....and you can do the same from the remote....tie it up.
Sorry guys there’s more, thanks for reading this far!! I need all the help I can get, I will definitely make a write up for this for future people!
On PG 3:
Relay key switch interface: says not to use any weak connections, should I solder? what other options
RED (2) (+)12v input for relays: this is constant 12v right? on the 12volt, it said white or white red, which one is constant, or are both?
PINK (+) ignition output 1, black/red
ORANGE (+) accessory output: blue/red, just to verify
PURPLE (+) starter output: green/black, again, just to verify with you guys
PINK/WHITE (+) output to second ignition/accessory circuit, black/yellow
I personally prefer to solder all my connections but it is especially important with these because they carry some decent current. Check my pics for wire colors.
Remote start harness:
BLACK/WHITE neutral/park safety switch input: I have no clue where this wire is, it’s not on the 12volt. what’s the toggle switch there for? Just to test the system or something, I ask because if it’s a switch I will hardly use, I will put it somewhere out of the way.
If you have an automatic (which I hope you do) you don't need to hook up this wire because it is unable to start execpt in park or neutral anyway....so tie this one up too.
VIOLET/WHITE tach input: black AC, on diagnostic connector, 1st what does AC mean, 2nd, which diagnostic connector, the one under the hood, or the connector under the dash?
I took input from the back of the instrument cluster, look at my pics and you'll see where to get it.
On PG 4
BROWN (+) brake switch input: green/white? I looked near the brake pedal, and I see a switch, but which wire would get 12v when the pedal is depressed?
You need to get a multimeter and check....I don't remember offhand.
GRAY (-) hood pin switch: got a switch in the kit, but on the 12volt, says there is already one on the 4runner? I haven’t seen it, lol, supposedly, green/orange in the DR firewall, grey 26 pin connector. anyone confirm this, I don’t think there’s a pin switch already.
Mine did not have one so i just installed the one that came with the kit and ran the wire back through the firewall.
BLUE/WHITE status defogger output: I would use it for defog. The wire is behind the switch on the dash, but is mixed with other wires (ECT). which wire would I hook this up to for defog? Would I use pulsed or latched?
I don't think I ever used this feature so you'd need to figure this one out.
On PG 7:
Please explain what I would need to do, what wire, relays, for door lock setup on the 4runner. I believe its type B: but I’m not sure.
Yes, it is type B....look at my pics.
On PG 10: where did you guys place the program switch? I know it’s a matter or preference, but just wondering. I think ill place mine to the left of the security module on the left of the steering wheel.
I put the valet/program switch on the top of the kickpanel.
Well that’s it until I think of something else, lol. If you read this far I really appreciate it, I know this is a long thread, and it has some questions with obvious answers, but I just want to make sure everything will be ok, and I won’t kill my truck. I’m great with electronics, it’s just when I saw all the wires that I need to tap, and find, I got a little confused/worried, it will be great when I get it working though! Like I said, ill make a write up for anyone else that will need it in the future, including wire colors and locations, put all of our information together in one place! Thanks!!!!
Tells you exactly how to install a viper alarm/remote start....
...I even had scanned the viper guide and the 4runner wire colors are on the far left (may be slightly different on a 2000, but not much).
Which alarm is this so I can get the manual and look?
BTW....you can get all the install guides online here:
http://www.drdetailshop.com/deiinstallguides.htm
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 03-09-2005 at 07:07 AM.
03-09-2005 | 08:13 AM
#7
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thanks for your replies, i know it was a lot to decipher, just figured you guys might be able to help if youve done it before. Last block i got most of it figured out. I didnt know about the neutral wire though, (yes mine is an automatic) I also figured out the activation input, thats if you want the stock keyless entry to work the starter (press lock button twice) Well ill update this when i get home tonight and get started. Everything should run smoothly now that I have a nice excel spreadsheet with all wire connections/loactions/colors in it.
Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 08:19 AM.
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03-09-2005 | 08:28 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
Have you looked at the pics in my signature?
Tells you exactly how to install a viper alarm/remote start....
...I even had scanned the viper guide and the 4runner wire colors are on the far left (may be slightly different on a 2000, but not much).
Which alarm is this so I can get the manual and look?
BTW....you can get all the install guides online here:
http://www.drdetailshop.com/deiinstallguides.htm
Tells you exactly how to install a viper alarm/remote start....
...I even had scanned the viper guide and the 4runner wire colors are on the far left (may be slightly different on a 2000, but not much).
Which alarm is this so I can get the manual and look?
BTW....you can get all the install guides online here:
http://www.drdetailshop.com/deiinstallguides.htm
Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 08:33 AM.
03-09-2005 | 10:09 AM
#10
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 721
Likes: 1
From: Virgina
Originally Posted by dibble9012
thanks for your replies, i know it was a lot to decipher, just figured you guys might be able to help if youve done it before. Last block i got most of it figured out. I didnt know about the neutral wire though, (yes mine is an automatic) I also figured out the activation input, thats if you want the stock keyless entry to work the starter (press lock button twice) Well ill update this when i get home tonight and get started. Everything should run smoothly now that I have a nice excel spreadsheet with all wire connections/loactions/colors in it.
Last edited by WT; 03-09-2005 at 10:12 AM.
03-09-2005 | 12:09 PM
#12
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 5
From: Los Angeles
dibble,
you should've gotten in the commando 870 group buy. most of us did the install together and traded notes via PMs and email. you wouldve had remote start as well and that hook up was a cinch!
bob
you should've gotten in the commando 870 group buy. most of us did the install together and traded notes via PMs and email. you wouldve had remote start as well and that hook up was a cinch!
bob
03-09-2005 | 12:18 PM
#13
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yea, just thought simple would be better, I really dont have the need for an elaborate alarm, plus back then I didnt have a job, needed to save money for gas, or remote start wouldnt work, lol, they need to fix that flaw.
anyways, i hope you get your remote start working 
03-09-2005 | 08:16 PM
#15
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yahoooo, it works!! its great, I can start my car from across the street! I have a couple issues still that I need to work out. 1: which wire would I hook up to do the defroster? 2: is the activation(-) input so if I lock the doors with the stock keyless entry 2 or 3 times, it starts? 3: i cant use valet mode with mom. switch, only with keychain fob. maybe im doing it wrong, i pressed the mom. switch once then removed key? I also tried holding it down while removing the key, still didnt work, do i have to hold it down for a certain amount of time, or more presses?
whats "channel 2 (validity only)?
i did not use the 4 pin satellIte harness at all, what is accessory trigger, starter trigger, and ignition trigger?
would using the "ignition out (to alarm) wire do anything to help my problem, or add features
when i lock using the viper system, it does not set the alarm, how can i fix this?, i did not use the factory disarm/arm wires from viper because 12volt said the alarm arms when the doors are locked WRONG, where would i hook up these two wires? i have a rs3200 plus alarm
thanks guys, ill try to give a write up, i didnt take any pics though, had to concentrate on what I was doing too much, but I have a handy excel spreadsheet with all the wires/connections for this system on a 2000 4runner.
whats "channel 2 (validity only)?
i did not use the 4 pin satellIte harness at all, what is accessory trigger, starter trigger, and ignition trigger?
would using the "ignition out (to alarm) wire do anything to help my problem, or add features
when i lock using the viper system, it does not set the alarm, how can i fix this?, i did not use the factory disarm/arm wires from viper because 12volt said the alarm arms when the doors are locked WRONG, where would i hook up these two wires? i have a rs3200 plus alarm
thanks guys, ill try to give a write up, i didnt take any pics though, had to concentrate on what I was doing too much, but I have a handy excel spreadsheet with all the wires/connections for this system on a 2000 4runner.
Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 08:26 PM.
03-10-2005 | 05:29 AM
#16
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,651
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From: North Bend, WA
I bought my wife a remote start/alarm for her birthday. Figured I could do the install no prob. I figure I spent about 8 hours total to get it all in and working. This was her 99 Ford.
03-10-2005 | 06:43 AM
#17
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Virgina
Originally Posted by dibble9012
anyone? in the directions it looks like maybe they have a "programming mom. switch" and then another mom. switch for valet mode? im not sure, something to do with the blue wire. Does anyone know what happens if you accidentally press the start button when it is already in remote start mode, or if they keys are already in the ignition? just wondering if it knows when not to start the car.
You said it wont arm your current alarm is because you will need to run a trigger wire to the factory system from the remote start unit to let it know to re-arm after it starts, as for which wires I have no idea will probably have to break out the meter or find a wire diagram of the factory system.
03-10-2005 | 08:11 AM
#18
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i just realized what i said, wasnt thinking, i know it shuts off if it is already in remote start mode, but what if the key is in the ignition, does it still try to remote start it? i will be putting in the anti grind relay today, that stops it from grinding, if its in remote start mode and you turn the key too far. on a different note, i hooked up the blue/white activation wire to the lock wire of the truck, thinking, i pulse the locks 3 times, and it starts, doesnt work, im thinking maybe the alarm is getting in the way or something, it does work with the viper keyless though, just not the stock one.
Last edited by dibble9012; 03-14-2005 at 05:57 AM.
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