problems with stupid air intake sensor mod chip....
#1
problems with stupid air intake sensor mod chip....
Hi, I'm new here but I am hoping you all could help me with a recent problem I am having with a stupid ebay scam I got suckered into. I got the "20+hp intake chip, easy installation" part for cheap with high hopes but I got it and it had lousy and hard-to read directions so I emailed the seller and he told me to plug the little resistor into the power and ground contacts on the air mass flow sensor and I did just that (I did all that with the battery disconnected). When I turned on my car, the check engine light came on and it wouldnt rev past 1500 rpm without coughing and sputtering really bad. I took out the resistor and pluged the sensor back in but the car did the same exact thing. I have tried unplugging the battery for a while and reconnecting it but that hasnt done anything. I was wondering if any of you have done this mod before or if you would know what to do to resolve my problem because I can't even drive it right now. By the way, it is a 1992 3.0L Auto with 85K on it, before this, it ran pretty well. I am also a starving college student who is trying everything to not have to blow a load at the Toyota dealership. Thanks for your help.
#2
Contributing Member
"If it's too good to be true, it probably is." Hate to add to your grief but did you ever figure out why 20HP is usually expensive? Ebay scams like that are too common, we even had a member here who had their own 4Runner used on e-bay w/o their authorization. If you really wanted cheap hp then do a search about the deckplate mod and ISR mod.
#5
i think that diode goes into air temp sensor not the mass air flow sensor. it supposed to trick the ecm to adjust fuel mixture. it sounds to me you burnt one of the two heated wires in the mafs (mmass air flow sensor). did you check the stored trouble code. good luck
#6
Contributing Member
Nope...He doesn't have a MAF. That didn't get used until the 3.4L. I agree with clearing the ECU. Pull the EFI fuse for 2 minutes if I remember right and see if that doesn't reset the ECU for ya. You might even pull it and leave it out all night and try it tomorrow.
There isn't any cheap horsepower for the 3.0. You can do the deckplate and the ISR, but in the end, it's still gonna be slow. But, if you keep your revs below 4500 rpm, the 3.0 will take you through college pretty well.
There isn't any cheap horsepower for the 3.0. You can do the deckplate and the ISR, but in the end, it's still gonna be slow. But, if you keep your revs below 4500 rpm, the 3.0 will take you through college pretty well.
#7
Registered User
agreed that just plays with the AIT sensor and doesnt work on our engine to adjust fuel trims....the ECT mod however DOES but only if you have a loose exhaust and intake.
Definately check the Vane Air Flow Meter (VAFM) and also disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or more. You have to let the ECU loose power for a good while....
If you need the toyota factory service manual for checking the VAFM, just let me know. And gwhayduke is right, us 3vze owners dont have MAFs we got VAFMs You can also check codes jumping the Te and Te1 pins (I think) in the diagnostic box underhood when you turn the ignition to 'on'.
Definately check the Vane Air Flow Meter (VAFM) and also disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or more. You have to let the ECU loose power for a good while....
If you need the toyota factory service manual for checking the VAFM, just let me know. And gwhayduke is right, us 3vze owners dont have MAFs we got VAFMs You can also check codes jumping the Te and Te1 pins (I think) in the diagnostic box underhood when you turn the ignition to 'on'.
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#8
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
You can also check codes jumping the Te and Te1 pins (I think) in the diagnostic box underhood when you turn the ignition to 'on'.
#9
Well, I dont have very many tools up here at college and I dont think I would be comfortable jumping the connectors in the computer...with my luck I could short out the whole ECU or something. I dont think there is much I can do personally, I will probably be taking it in to a local garage shop around here...do any of you have tips or suggestions on how not to get ripped by the technician for this problem? How much should it cost just to run diagnostics? I will have to go from there but that should be a good start. Thanks so much for the help, I still can't believe I was such an idiot to go for that stupid mod.
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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This may not help but it sounds to me from reading your posts that you didn't disconnect the battery after removing the diode which will reset the ECU.
Try this if you haven't or maybe one more time and see if that helps.
Tom
Try this if you haven't or maybe one more time and see if that helps.
Tom
#11
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Well, I dont have very many tools up here at college and I dont think I would be comfortable jumping the connectors in the computer...with my luck I could short out the whole ECU or something. I dont think there is much I can do personally, I will probably be taking it in to a local garage shop around here...do any of you have tips or suggestions on how not to get ripped by the technician for this problem? How much should it cost just to run diagnostics? I will have to go from there but that should be a good start. Thanks so much for the help, I still can't believe I was such an idiot to go for that stupid mod.
Tomrunner
#12
Registered User
Disconnect the damn battery for 15 min, remove the mod, clean up your connections, wait another 15 min then reconnect. I got a 6 pack that says your problems will go away.
Also jumping the pins is CAKE and you wont mess up anything! When I get home from this trip to TX, Ill take some pics and show you exactly how to do this...
Also jumping the pins is CAKE and you wont mess up anything! When I get home from this trip to TX, Ill take some pics and show you exactly how to do this...
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