4-RUNNIN' FREAK

It's just that things don't work out.
I'll still go see him and see what he can do.
I have alot of mixed feelings as I said before. I really don't want to get rid of it all to be honest with you. But if stuff keeps going wrong as a cause of it, I'll just get rid of it. If someone walked up to me right now and said, "I'll take it all out and put your old stuff back on" I'd do it. Just a little depressed over it all. I was felling good about it all the other day, now like crap.
Hopefully it will all pass. We'll see what he can do.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I just spoke to Gadget again. He said the the TRD headers do not have "webbing" inside. Does anyone know the real name for this? Like when two pipes are welded together and the do not trim the excess?

Can anyone host 1-3 pics for me to show what I am talking about?

midiwall

"Slag" is one term that's used to talk about excess material from a manufacturing, cutting or welding process. "Kerf" is a term that's used to describe the waste material that's left on the floor from a cut.

I can host pics if you want... send 'em to mark@midiwall.com

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

Many thanx Mark. You have mail.

midiwall

Here're 4RF's pics (I'll let him explain what he wants to show us):

Pic 1:



Pic 2:



Pic 3:

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

Pic 1 shows no access from the passenger side.
Pic 2 shows how the TRD headers no meet at the Landcruiser cat. If you look right above the swaybar you can see the fatter part where the headers meet. That place is my only option to have the bung welded in, and that was the place with the "webbing" I spoke of. You can also see the stock O2 sensor just to the left of the flange and to the right of the swaybar. More on the top. Looks white in the pic.
Pic 3 shows the wide open space between the first and second cats that I cannot use.

Thanx a mil for hosting those for me.
The beer has really calmed me down.

midiwall

You're quite welcome... no probs.

I _think_ you'd be good to go with putting the bung right at the collector (where the headers meet) about 2" up from where that flange is that bolts to the cat. But now that you have pics online, ask Gadget since he's kinda' requiring it.


And lemme know where to send you your preferred 6-pack - you can get through this!

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I would like some Kwak (Kwak beer glasses can't stand by themselves - look on the net for them, they look cool). But since I can't get that here I drink Spaten.
I already sent the pics over to Gadget early yesterday. He said just to get it in somewhere other than the bottom. So I guess I shall go for that place right where the headers meet and see what we can do from there.
I hope the welder will come in tomorrow. I'll I can do is hope at this point. But you have to understand why I get fed up so easily. Short fuse with this kind of stuff and I always have in the back of my mind that something may go wrong. Should have been there when I put the S/C on. And when my HID's started strobing, I freaked. Was just the reduced power of the DRL's.
BTW how do you like the shiny new $1050 Landcruiser cat
The cats and the ECU have an 8 year warranty on them, so I'll blow through them and then when the time comes, I'll replace them with the $50 cats or just get some pipe in there.
Save the beer for yourself and get 18 more. I'm sure you can use it after helping me.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

Sitting here waiting. I'm kind of feeling good about this, but I'll probably run into some other problems today.
One place the welder should be off, but said he'd come in if the pipes were down. I don't want to pay the extra for that.
And the second place I'll try as backup may still not have gas.
If so I may look for the stanless steel version (if they have it) of that aluma-weld stuff. Comes in a tube and makes a nice permanent joint. Not as good as a weld, but if it is made, I'll have to try it.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

Good news. I went to get the bung welded in and the guy said no. He thought the pipes would be down off the truck.
So I came home and called another shop and they took me right in. Stopped what they were doing on one car and pulled mine in and cut and welded it in. The thing is it cost $100, Charged me extra for pulling the car out I bet. But, I was a sucker again and paid anyways just so I can have it properly tuned.
Now sometime tomorrow I will be meeting him and he can work his magic.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

The clock is ticking. I'm excited. WOOHOO.
I wish I had some GPS and some money so I can buy that speed unlimiter and see how she works on the way home.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

The trip is about to begin. I am leaving here in the next hour or two. Gonna take it nice and easy. I'll probably be back Monday night to inform everyone of the results.

midiwall

Good luck! Drive safe!

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

The results are in!!! I have some good and bad news.
Good news first. Gadget is great. Super nice guy. He said it was running very rich on the top end and he tweaked it. I notice the difference a lot. He had me running up to 80 in 4WD in no time while doing his adjustments. It was raining pretty hard at time so we did it in 4WD. My MPG shot up as well. It may be the gas that I bought in VA (someone else had a post about getting good MPG with VA fuel will look later and post link) On my way home before the bad news started to occur, I made it from Ashton, VA to Washington, DC on a ¼ tank of gas. I made the whole 360 mile trip from Ashton home on ¾ of a tank. I estimated the average to be around 20 MPG and that was cruising at 85 most of the way. I made it to Gadget using ½ of a tank of gas on the way down. Seems like it helped a lot.
Now for the bad part. It still stumbles. In cruise it's good. It threw the flashing check engine light in 4 locations for a total of 10 times. I couldn't move 5 feet at one point without it going on again. I figured out that once it goes on I would pull over and reset the code and let it sit for a minute or two and drive again and that seemed to work. I wanted to stop back to Gadget, he did offer help again on my way back home, but I was so tired I just wanted to get home. So I set cruise for 70 and limped her home.
One time there were three codes, and one was cylinder 3 and another was cylinder 5 and the last was multiple misfires. I am pretty sure those were the codes. When that happened I was already close to Jersey and didn't want to turn around. Again I am a lil tired for an 800 mile trip in a day with very little sleep at all. I know you guys will probably say I'm stupid or something that I turned down his offer, but I was tired and pissed. It may be wiring too for all I know, because I would jiggle the wires on the intake and it would be good for a good time, plus letting it sit. Seems to happen at high speed. The stumble seems to only happen when I am under ½ throttle. ¾ to full throttle seems to result in no stumbles whatsoever, but would trip the check engine light. I will take a look at some stuff tomorrow and spray some contact cleaner on the connections and look at the FTC to make sure no connections have loosened.
But all in all. I was one happy Mo-Fo when he was done, until the lights for misfires came on. The one misfire code that was always thrown was P0300 according to my OBD scanner.
I am sure I left some things out. I will repost them when I remember after a nap.
Gadget, Thanks a million. Sorry I didn't stop back when I had the problems. Hope you're not upset. You did a great great great job tweaking that FTC.
If I can't track this down, I will just sell the S/C and maybe just the FTC I am hoping I can keep the other parts of the URD kit in there with no problems.

BTW the S/C has only 4,000 miles almost. The URD kit even less.
And can the stumbling be from oil shear?

midiwall

Ummm... The stumbling's probably from the misfires.

Don't ignore the CEL codes.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I'm starting to think that I may have shorted something out when I detailed the engine. I'm going to start with plugs and wires and see where that leads.
Does anyone know the best coil packs for the mods I have? I just want a few opinions while alot of people are on, just in case.
From watching that video of that Yota they submerged in water, I think I should have no probs. I think I'll go run mine down the boat launch and see what happens.

shazaam

they yota they submerged has less electronics in it then you have in your ABS control box

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I just was cleaning the MAF sensor, and it seems like the harness for the MAF was loose. I examined it and the rubber gasket inside was warped and not allowing it to click into place. I trimmed ever so little out and now it can click. We'll see if this helps out a little. Clould that be the cause of the misfires? All the connections I sprayed are now drying. I will see how it acts later when I go back to work. I'll clean the throttle body this weekend and check the plugs and gapping too. I want this to work already.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I guess the MAf had something to do with the stumbling and the MIL lamp comming on. As I said, I cleaned it and the harness, and so far so good.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I am now convinced after only two days that it was that harness being loose that was pissing me off.
Now this weekend I can do the ISR & deckplate mods. I'm thinking of getting some stainless pipe, and totally taking out the stock plastic with the ribs in it to smooth the airflow. I have to look at it all though and see how to make connections for the MAF sensor and all.