I started replacing the rotors on my 4runner because it seemed like they were badly warped only to run into a hurdle I did not expect. I had the truck up on jack stands, removed the wheel, removed the brake pads, removed the caliper, and expected I am almost done, cause all that should be left is to slide out the old rotor, put in the new one and then just put everything back together… right? Wrong, in my case :o( The old rotor was not coming off, so at that point I looked at it more carefully, removed the grease cap, and noticed it does not have a big center hole and slide on and off, but instead it has a small center hole and is bolted in place by the axle shaft nut. If any of you have worked on a 4runner with brake rotors like that, please help me with the following questions:

1. I had to return the new rotors I had originally bought because they obviously did not fit, then reordered and got again the kind that just slides on and off and does not fit. None of the autoparts stores around here seem to show a different kind of rotor available except for the ones that do not fit my car. They only distinguish between 15 inch and 16 inch wheels. Does anyone know of a place other than the dealership where I can order the right rotors and if so, the part number that it would be?

2. If I do find the right rotors, buy a new torque wrench (my old one only goes to 150ft-lbs), buy a socket that fits the axle shaft nut, etc… Will it be a simple project after the axle shaft nut is off? At that point, do I just swap the old rotor with the new one, or will I have to mess with removing the hub/bearings/seals, or any other stuff? The Chilton’s manual I am using does not make it clear…

3. What size socket will fit the axle shaft nut?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

 

On the 3rd Gens it should slip right on after removing the caliper by the 2 bolts on the back bracket. You should not have to remove the axle bolt unless your replacing the axle (done that already too CV Boots riped), Do a quick search I know many have easy writeup here about replacing rotors on the 3rd gens.

 

You started out doing things correctly, the road block you ran into was simply a tight rotor. Take a mallet and knock on the back side of the rotor and it'll pop off the hub. The axle nut and dust cap don't need to come off.

 

I spent quite a bit of effort hitting the back side of the rotor with a rubber mallet. Even tried hitting it at one place, then rotating the rotor about 45 degrees and hitting it again, and so on until I had gone all the way around.
I would hit it as hard as I can but it did not give any signs of wanting to come off.
Can it really be stuck on so bad?

 

YUP, gottta be a stuck rotor....there is nothing else holding it ON!

Å

 

Landrey,

I'll just add my opinion in case you need any more convincing. Just did my rotors two weeks ago, these guys are right on the money. The rotors are just like they are on most other cars. Could the rotors have gotten so hot to get fused to the axle? Probably not. If you're real careful, maybe a little PB Blaster around where the rotor and hub touch, on both sides, might help. Also, if you're going to chuck the old rotors anyways, maybe a bit of heat with a torch ONLY on the rotor while tapping with the mallet might be enough to break the seal. Just some ideas, not sure if they would work.

 

Just wondering what kind of rotor's everyone is going with these days. I need to replace myine here soon.

Thanks
-Mike

 

I am assuming that no one did an SAS or changed the front axle out for any reason. If it is still stock then everyone is correct in saying that you need to give a good whack with a 5 lb sledge and it will break loose.

I use OEM toyota rotors myself.

 

see the 2 tiny threaded holes on the rotor???? insert 2 bolts and tighten down. it will pop it off . since your not in love with your old warped rotors, get the large adjustment tool, ( big hammer) and hit the back side of the rotor.

also, shoot some wd40 or pb blaster in the center of the rotor on the axle side..should slip right off....grind the rust, if there is any..of the hub before you install the rotor to insure a good fit. hope this helps

mike

 

Look where he is from....I bet those holes are nothing but rust by now.
I was originally thinking the same thing but it would be worth a try anyway.

 

I'm putting a set of Brembo rotors (pretty much like OEM, but I've heard that they're not as prone to warping) on tomorrow evening, along with a set of Performance Friction pads. Many forum members have had good luck with either one or the combination. I paid about $110 with s&h for the rotors. I probably could have found them locally and saved a few $$'s, but delivery to the door was just too convenient.

 

Thanks to everyone for the input so far. First chance I have I will take the calipers off again and try to be a little more persuasive with the old rotors... see if I can get them to come off.
I've heard that Brembo rotors are supposed to be good. I read another post on this forum and they recommended www.taylorautomotive.com as the place to get them. They are indeed the cheapest there ($45/each) from all the places I've looked at. It seems like a nice website too. I'll probably get mine from there next - since I already returned the set I had bought thinking it does not fit... bummer... :o(
Anyways... Have a good day, Everyone!

 

Yesterday I got the old rotors to come off! Thanks everyone for the help! You were all right - nothing strange about my rotors, they just needed some WD-40 sprayed at the right places and some more banging with the mallet.

 

I just ordered a set of Brembos for $43+ from this place:

http://www.importrp.com/catalog.php?...s&subcat_id=11

I checked Taylors, and they want $56+ for the same thing. Probably install next week with the PF pads I picked up...