Pro Engine Cleaning Technique
#21
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Originally Posted by YotaTruck1986
BigBlob202 showed me this technique for detailing your engine.
Pictures copyright of http://www.srcstc.com/
Some of you may use this technique, some may not, but here it is.
1. Run your engine for a few minutes to warm (not hot) it up. The grease and dirt can be removed easier when its warm.
2. Second, cover all parts inside you engine that CAN'T get wet with tinfoil or plastic bags and rubber bands. (Distributer, alternator, electronic connections, etc.)
3. Spray EVERYTHING with a degreaser. (I use Simple Green Degreaser.) Use the whole bottle, don't hold back. Let it sit for 15 minutes, the degreaser has to have time to do its magic.
4. Rinse your engine lightly with water to remove the crud and cleaner.
(Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you get the results you want.)
5. This step is key! Grab a bottle of WD40 and spray EVERYTHING. Wipe away any excess. You'll probably want to empty the can. This will give everything a newer than new glossy shine. All your faded plastic and tubing will come back to life. Don't rinse the WD40 off with water, leave it as is.
You can also use Pledge if your afraid the WD40 might atract dust.
6. Remove all tinfoil or plastic before driving.
Here's a before and after picture using this technique.
BEFORE:
AFTER!:
Be sure to post any before and after pictures you might have if you try this. If you have any comments or suggestions, please post! Thanks.
Pictures copyright of http://www.srcstc.com/
Some of you may use this technique, some may not, but here it is.
1. Run your engine for a few minutes to warm (not hot) it up. The grease and dirt can be removed easier when its warm.
2. Second, cover all parts inside you engine that CAN'T get wet with tinfoil or plastic bags and rubber bands. (Distributer, alternator, electronic connections, etc.)
3. Spray EVERYTHING with a degreaser. (I use Simple Green Degreaser.) Use the whole bottle, don't hold back. Let it sit for 15 minutes, the degreaser has to have time to do its magic.
4. Rinse your engine lightly with water to remove the crud and cleaner.
(Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you get the results you want.)
5. This step is key! Grab a bottle of WD40 and spray EVERYTHING. Wipe away any excess. You'll probably want to empty the can. This will give everything a newer than new glossy shine. All your faded plastic and tubing will come back to life. Don't rinse the WD40 off with water, leave it as is.
You can also use Pledge if your afraid the WD40 might atract dust.
6. Remove all tinfoil or plastic before driving.
Here's a before and after picture using this technique.
BEFORE:
AFTER!:
Be sure to post any before and after pictures you might have if you try this. If you have any comments or suggestions, please post! Thanks.
Last edited by mt_goat; 08-06-2004 at 05:28 PM.
#22
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Hey I recognize that BMW oil filter cover, but that can't be a BMW air filter. Hope you covered that good before the bath.
#23
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Boeshield is awesome for the engine, suspension and drivetrain. Cleans and protects really well- all metal actually- and cleans up plastics really well too.
#25
Some of the guys on the Miata.net board mentioned that Armor All's Tire Cleaner makes for a great engine cleaner that is also inexpensive and leaves the plastic/rubber parts looking great.
~ Fred
~ Fred
#26
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I skipped the shiny stuff part. I didn't want to tempt spraying stuff and getting it on the headers or engine and later catching fire. Who knows with all these chemicals. Plus when it starts to burn off and some nice happy fumes are flowing through my vents.
The stuff I used finally in full strength worked wonders.
The stuff I used finally in full strength worked wonders.
#27
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Originally Posted by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK
I skipped the shiny stuff part. I didn't want to tempt spraying stuff and getting it on the headers or engine and later catching fire. Who knows with all these chemicals. Plus when it starts to burn off and some nice happy fumes are flowing through my vents.
The stuff I used finally in full strength worked wonders.
The stuff I used finally in full strength worked wonders.
#28
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Greetings,
Would'nt the stuff you shine your tires with work well on the rubber in an engine compartment? Is it really ok to spray WD40 on Everything? I like a detailed engine and just used gunk and elbow grease and lots of cash to buy braided hoses so if this works, I'll save a ton of money on my Taco.
MV
Would'nt the stuff you shine your tires with work well on the rubber in an engine compartment? Is it really ok to spray WD40 on Everything? I like a detailed engine and just used gunk and elbow grease and lots of cash to buy braided hoses so if this works, I'll save a ton of money on my Taco.
MV
#30
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Originally Posted by MvCrash
Greetings,
Would'nt the stuff you shine your tires with work well on the rubber in an engine compartment? Is it really ok to spray WD40 on Everything? I like a detailed engine and just used gunk and elbow grease and lots of cash to buy braided hoses so if this works, I'll save a ton of money on my Taco.
MV
Would'nt the stuff you shine your tires with work well on the rubber in an engine compartment? Is it really ok to spray WD40 on Everything? I like a detailed engine and just used gunk and elbow grease and lots of cash to buy braided hoses so if this works, I'll save a ton of money on my Taco.
MV
#31
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Originally Posted by Donovan
The problem with the simple green is that it will EAT the hell out of aluminum and remove the protective coating on a lot of metal parts, leaving them more prone to oxidization. Also WW40 is very flamable so be carefull when you drive the truck with that much on there Steam cleaning and dumping some finish 2000 is a safer way to get this done.
In my old job at the company I worked for, I used to paint traffic lines. Simple Green would eat the thermoplastic right off. It would just peel off. With that said, I don't know how that stuff can be safe for the environment.
#32
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Originally Posted by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK
MV, where in NNJ are you from?
Your ten minutes from Manhattan according to your info, I'm about 5 Minutes depending on traffic. I live near the Bridge, I can actually throw a stone and hit it.
MV
#33
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Originally Posted by MvCrash
Greetings,
Your ten minutes from Manhattan according to your info, I'm about 5 Minutes depending on traffic. I live near the Bridge, I can actually throw a stone and hit it.
MV
Your ten minutes from Manhattan according to your info, I'm about 5 Minutes depending on traffic. I live near the Bridge, I can actually throw a stone and hit it.
MV
Last edited by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK; 08-08-2004 at 07:46 AM.
#34
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Originally Posted by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK
I take it thats the GWB. I work for them.
I take it you're in Fort Lee?
I'm in Bayonne. I can make it into NYC in 10 mins from my door to the end of the tunnel.
I take it you're in Fort Lee?
I'm in Bayonne. I can make it into NYC in 10 mins from my door to the end of the tunnel.
Mv
#35
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I did the Degreaser (gunk citrus) then the wd40 and it worked great.....but I was a little concerned about the fact it is flamable so i washed it off before I went for a drive. Also i have heard that wd40 is harsh on rubbers and plastics?....I am wondering how well "gunk" "liquid wrench" would work? same kinda product as wd-40 but It comes in a non-flamable version.
#36
Registered User
All THe toyota's that I've owned get a engine wash 3 -4 times a year, just using power washer, Gunk, finish 2000, Its amazing the crud that builds up on a engine, a clean engine is a happy engine.... With the Engine clean it helps working on the regular mainenance.
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