The price of power or just bad luck? Caution: Graphic images!
#23
Wow...
So in order to prevent this from happening, I guess the thing to do would be to open up the trans, replace the thrust washers with newer/better units, and send the VB to IPT? From your post it sounds as though the VB mod is completely unrelated to this type of failure.
Does IPT, or anyone for that matter, make stronger/more durable thrust washers?
So in order to prevent this from happening, I guess the thing to do would be to open up the trans, replace the thrust washers with newer/better units, and send the VB to IPT? From your post it sounds as though the VB mod is completely unrelated to this type of failure.
Does IPT, or anyone for that matter, make stronger/more durable thrust washers?
#24
Wow...
So in order to prevent this from happening, I guess the thing to do would be to open up the trans, replace the thrust washers with newer/better units, and send the VB to IPT? From your post it sounds as though the VB mod is completely unrelated to this type of failure.
Does IPT, or anyone for that matter, make stronger/more durable thrust washers?
So in order to prevent this from happening, I guess the thing to do would be to open up the trans, replace the thrust washers with newer/better units, and send the VB to IPT? From your post it sounds as though the VB mod is completely unrelated to this type of failure.
Does IPT, or anyone for that matter, make stronger/more durable thrust washers?
#25
i just checked this morning and i have the same one (2002 tacoma 4x4 extra cab)... also it says toyota of california.. does this mean mine was made in cali??? if so would there be any difference if they were made somewhere else bc of the cali emissions??
#26
#27
oh i was just talking about the truck itself made in cali.... anyway, on the door jam i have the same # the other guys were talking about as far as tranny. something like a340f...
#28
I checked the actual tag on the tranny and the model # shows 30-40LE. The door jamb code says A340F. What's the difference? What was the model number on the actual tranny tag on Lee's and other's who have had this problem? Sounds like there is not much that can be done to prevent this from happening so I'll just drive it as I normally do, keep up regular maintenace, and hope for the best.
#29
Time for a manual swap?
Makes me glad I'm under the toyota certified used warranty till 09 and 100K... and the dealer I bought it from does this "Warranty Forever" thing on the powertrain for as long as I own the vehicle. Hopefully this kinda crap is covered.
Makes me glad I'm under the toyota certified used warranty till 09 and 100K... and the dealer I bought it from does this "Warranty Forever" thing on the powertrain for as long as I own the vehicle. Hopefully this kinda crap is covered.
Last edited by Starbuck3733T; 03-28-2007 at 06:23 AM.
#30
add 1 more to the count
My 2001 started making noise in O/D a few weeks back. I dropped tha pan and found a bunch of metal on the magnets including some larger chunks up to 1/2 inch long that looked like parts of teeth. I cleaned the pan, magnets and filter put in fresh fluid and am driving it with O/D switched off 'til I have time to repair it or $ to have it rebuilt.
#32
My 2001 started making noise in O/D a few weeks back. I dropped tha pan and found a bunch of metal on the magnets including some larger chunks up to 1/2 inch long that looked like parts of teeth. I cleaned the pan, magnets and filter put in fresh fluid and am driving it with O/D switched off 'til I have time to repair it or $ to have it rebuilt.
#33
My 2001 started making noise in O/D a few weeks back. I dropped tha pan and found a bunch of metal on the magnets including some larger chunks up to 1/2 inch long that looked like parts of teeth. I cleaned the pan, magnets and filter put in fresh fluid and am driving it with O/D switched off 'til I have time to repair it or $ to have it rebuilt.
#35
Playin' with the O/D switch and a tad bit of fire
Each start up requires that the O/D switch be hit. If you forget, the first time it shifts into 4th will quickly remind you - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
As for the fire, I like playing with fire and I think this is more like a game of hot potato at the moment. The noise issues only occur in 4th (O/D) and the converter locks and unlocks fine in both 3rd and 4th. Actually, it drives fine in 4th aside from the noise, and associated puking of metal bits. I think I've probably caught this early enough to limit the damage. As long as the chutch isn't engaged for 4th, everything is smooth as silk. Anyway, it will clear 100MPH in 3rd with the converter locked, so I might not need a 4 speed. 14 MPG kind of sucks though.
At the moment I'm torn as to how I'd like to proceed. I'm not overly comfortable with the OEM parts / design right now. A rebuild with upgrades from IPT would be nice, but costs the most ($3500ish + freight). As a matter of curiosity, I'd love to take it apart myself ($900ish). Unfortunately I wouldcn't get the upgrades and I'd need to find a free week. A scrap yard tranny is probably my quickest solution and lowest cost ($750ish). I guess I'd still have the original to send off to IPT when the extra funds are around. hmmmmm....
As for the fire, I like playing with fire and I think this is more like a game of hot potato at the moment. The noise issues only occur in 4th (O/D) and the converter locks and unlocks fine in both 3rd and 4th. Actually, it drives fine in 4th aside from the noise, and associated puking of metal bits. I think I've probably caught this early enough to limit the damage. As long as the chutch isn't engaged for 4th, everything is smooth as silk. Anyway, it will clear 100MPH in 3rd with the converter locked, so I might not need a 4 speed. 14 MPG kind of sucks though.
At the moment I'm torn as to how I'd like to proceed. I'm not overly comfortable with the OEM parts / design right now. A rebuild with upgrades from IPT would be nice, but costs the most ($3500ish + freight). As a matter of curiosity, I'd love to take it apart myself ($900ish). Unfortunately I wouldcn't get the upgrades and I'd need to find a free week. A scrap yard tranny is probably my quickest solution and lowest cost ($750ish). I guess I'd still have the original to send off to IPT when the extra funds are around. hmmmmm....
#36
Each start up requires that the O/D switch be hit. If you forget, the first time it shifts into 4th will quickly remind you - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
As for the fire, I like playing with fire and I think this is more like a game of hot potato at the moment. The noise issues only occur in 4th (O/D) and the converter locks and unlocks fine in both 3rd and 4th. Actually, it drives fine in 4th aside from the noise, and associated puking of metal bits. I think I've probably caught this early enough to limit the damage. As long as the chutch isn't engaged for 4th, everything is smooth as silk. Anyway, it will clear 100MPH in 3rd with the converter locked, so I might not need a 4 speed. 14 MPG kind of sucks though.
At the moment I'm torn as to how I'd like to proceed. I'm not overly comfortable with the OEM parts / design right now. A rebuild with upgrades from IPT would be nice, but costs the most ($3500ish + freight). As a matter of curiosity, I'd love to take it apart myself ($900ish). Unfortunately I wouldcn't get the upgrades and I'd need to find a free week. A scrap yard tranny is probably my quickest solution and lowest cost ($750ish). I guess I'd still have the original to send off to IPT when the extra funds are around. hmmmmm....
As for the fire, I like playing with fire and I think this is more like a game of hot potato at the moment. The noise issues only occur in 4th (O/D) and the converter locks and unlocks fine in both 3rd and 4th. Actually, it drives fine in 4th aside from the noise, and associated puking of metal bits. I think I've probably caught this early enough to limit the damage. As long as the chutch isn't engaged for 4th, everything is smooth as silk. Anyway, it will clear 100MPH in 3rd with the converter locked, so I might not need a 4 speed. 14 MPG kind of sucks though.
At the moment I'm torn as to how I'd like to proceed. I'm not overly comfortable with the OEM parts / design right now. A rebuild with upgrades from IPT would be nice, but costs the most ($3500ish + freight). As a matter of curiosity, I'd love to take it apart myself ($900ish). Unfortunately I wouldcn't get the upgrades and I'd need to find a free week. A scrap yard tranny is probably my quickest solution and lowest cost ($750ish). I guess I'd still have the original to send off to IPT when the extra funds are around. hmmmmm....
#38
thrust washer location
RandyA, Does the thrust washer that failed in your pictures ride between the ring gear hub and the planetary carrier? The Toyota service manual I downloaded is showing a bearing and two races in that location.