Poor gear engagement when running--no problem when truck is off
11-30-2012, 08:26 PM
#41
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Not gonna feed the troll.
I am a real auto mechanic. No hammering required. When the engine is at the right speed, the synchros do the rest. That's how they are supposed to work. My original intention here was to determine if the shifting issue was because of weak hydraulics or a spinning input shaft. Either of which can cause difficult shifting. Apparently you are not a real mechanic since you don't understand the difference. Yes, this is a test I have done. And after this has been determined, the next appropriate step can be taken. I don't have the luxury of throwing parts at my customers cars. And I wouldn't tell anyone on this forum to do that either. I am here to learn and to share what I already know based on my experiences as a tech
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Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 11-30-2012 at 08:36 PM.
11-30-2012, 08:35 PM
#42
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Wow an actual tech sayin its ok to sync shift. BTW I know its do able, Ive done it to cars and trucks I dont care about, but now matter how amazing you think you are its not good for the transmission, in tech terms theirs always differentiation occurring, thats why theres a clutch. The syncros see enough wear and abuse as it is, they dont need you hammering on them without using the clutch. And your going to recommend this to someone else as a method of diagnosis, who's not a "tech"????
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 11-30-2012 at 08:38 PM.
11-30-2012, 09:08 PM
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11-30-2012, 09:10 PM
#44
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If the truck is inching forward with the pedal all the way to the floor, it means that the clutch is either very worn, or the hydraulic pressure isnt enough to fully mate the clutch plate to the fly wheel
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 11-30-2012 at 09:12 PM.
12-01-2012, 02:19 AM
#45
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I've seen your build...pretty hacked up work if you ask me.
I suggest you switch to Jeeps. its more fitting of your attitude.
12-01-2012, 05:52 AM
#46
Wow an actual tech sayin its ok to sync shift. BTW I know its do able, Ive done it to cars and trucks I dont care about, but now matter how amazing you think you are its not good for the transmission, in tech terms theirs always differentiation occurring, thats why theres a clutch. The syncros see enough wear and abuse as it is, they dont need you hammering on them without using the clutch. And your going to recommend this to someone else as a method of diagnosis, who's not a "tech"????
12-01-2012, 07:22 AM
#47
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I've seen your build...pretty hacked up work if you ask me.
I suggest you switch to Jeeps. its more fitting of your attitude.
I suggest you switch to Jeeps. its more fitting of your attitude.
Well you have obviously modified lots of toyota's, so why is my build hacked?
Or better yet name something on it thats hacked?
12-01-2012, 07:23 AM
#48
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Never suggested anyone shift without the clutch buddy. You said it was impossible to drive with a bad clutch so I just proved you wrong. Are you a politician? If not, you should seriously consider it.
12-02-2012, 02:56 PM
#50
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That's alright, I appreciate all the input. I took a look at the clutch pedal bracket, and I noticed that the pushrod was canted or cocked in relation to the bracket when I pushed the pedal down with my hand. That seems to have decreased the distance that the pushrod moved into the master cylinder, but not by much.
I cut out some of the rubber and matting on the floorboard to allow the pedal to travel further toward the floor. It's now hitting the metal. It seemed to help a little bit at first, but not so much anymore. Still having the same problem.
Another thing I noticed: It looks like the clutch fork has more room to travel if I could just get the slave cylinder to push it a little farther.
Besides the extreme difficulty in engaging gears with the engine running, everything else seems to be normal. With the clutch pedal depressed, the truck does not inch forward. But, I have to lift the pedal just the slightest little bit, and the truck will move.
I haven't noticed anything strange with RPMs with the clutch pedal down, or up, at any speed.
In the last couple days, however, when I've had to put it in reverse (with the engine off, of course), it has been even more difficult to get it out of reverse while the engine is running. Significant grinding sound when I forced it into neutral.
I cut out some of the rubber and matting on the floorboard to allow the pedal to travel further toward the floor. It's now hitting the metal. It seemed to help a little bit at first, but not so much anymore. Still having the same problem.
Another thing I noticed: It looks like the clutch fork has more room to travel if I could just get the slave cylinder to push it a little farther.
Besides the extreme difficulty in engaging gears with the engine running, everything else seems to be normal. With the clutch pedal depressed, the truck does not inch forward. But, I have to lift the pedal just the slightest little bit, and the truck will move.
I haven't noticed anything strange with RPMs with the clutch pedal down, or up, at any speed.
In the last couple days, however, when I've had to put it in reverse (with the engine off, of course), it has been even more difficult to get it out of reverse while the engine is running. Significant grinding sound when I forced it into neutral.
12-02-2012, 03:07 PM
#51
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Im wondering about the clutch pedal adjustment. You mentioned the pushrod being adjusted out. When the clutch pedal is all the way out, is there still pressure on the pushrod. Is the pedel stopping the pushrod from fully extending into the clutch engaged position.
So if the pedal is out and you go under the truck you should be able to wiggle the clutch fork just a little, shouldnt be any pressure on it. Its somthing id check.
So if the pedal is out and you go under the truck you should be able to wiggle the clutch fork just a little, shouldnt be any pressure on it. Its somthing id check.
12-02-2012, 03:08 PM
#52
You adjusted the master push-rod, but have you adjusted the pedal height? The adjuster is on the pedal bracket. Allows the pedal to come up higher. This shouldn't normally need adjusting and may be just a temporary fix to get you by for a bit. Until you discover the actual cause. I would take a look at the top of the bracket where it bolts to the dash. They have a tendency to crack in those upper corners and that prevents you from getting full travel of the push-rod.
Last edited by j2the-e; 12-02-2012 at 03:28 PM.
12-03-2012, 04:20 AM
#55
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You can usually adjust the pushrod on the clutch pedal with a nut or 2. Look up where the clutch pedal attaches to the MC. Adjust the push rod so that you get more movement and see if that helps. If not then try bleeding the clutch system.
12-21-2012, 04:39 AM
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Alright I have some feedback just to let you guys know what happened.
All the mechanics from the pedal to the fork were working properly, hydraulics were good, but I was still having the problem. So I (sadly) took it to Napa.
The clutch was worn out. It surprised me because the first clutch lasted about 160,000 miles, and this one lasted about 90,000. The clutch was worn down to the rivets, and the guy suggested I get a new flywheel (only $65), which I assume was ground down a bit since I'd been having the problem off-and-on for about 10 months. By the end, the clutch was almost completely shot.
Something interesting: he said the "seal by the engine" was done and needed to be replaced, $21. I assume that was where the massive oil leak all over the underside around the transmission was coming from.
Maybe some oil got into the clutch and wore it down more quickly?
Does anyone know which seal in particular he might have been talking about?
All the mechanics from the pedal to the fork were working properly, hydraulics were good, but I was still having the problem. So I (sadly) took it to Napa.
The clutch was worn out. It surprised me because the first clutch lasted about 160,000 miles, and this one lasted about 90,000. The clutch was worn down to the rivets, and the guy suggested I get a new flywheel (only $65), which I assume was ground down a bit since I'd been having the problem off-and-on for about 10 months. By the end, the clutch was almost completely shot.
Something interesting: he said the "seal by the engine" was done and needed to be replaced, $21. I assume that was where the massive oil leak all over the underside around the transmission was coming from.
Maybe some oil got into the clutch and wore it down more quickly?
Does anyone know which seal in particular he might have been talking about?
12-25-2012, 07:37 PM
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I'm having the exact same problems on my 96 3.4 v6 5speed 215k miles. I figured the clutch was shot, but i'll try the adjustment stuff. Also. When i let off my clutch it comes out about half way and sticks. Doesn't bother shifting or anything but i do have to depress it further than any other manual car i've ever driven to engage gears. Doesnt feel like its being pushed up the rest of the way at all. I usually just help it back up with the top of my foot. Did you have anything like that Arty2111? Sorry if anything is stupid sounding, I've never done work on a tranny.
12-25-2012, 08:02 PM
#60
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When i let off my clutch it comes out about half way and sticks.
