Poor gear engagement when running--no problem when truck is off
#21
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Makes perfect sense to me. I suggest you re read what he said. Try and understand it, before "engaging" your mouth clutch.
#23
To the op,
If your hydraulics check out, and I suspect they will, since its all new stuff, you'll need to pull the tranny. When you're in there, check for oil leaks as well. If the trans input is leaking oil onto the disc it can also cause your symptoms. Also sounds like you need a clutch flex hose since its leaking, but thats not likely to cause your issue unless you run it empty
If your hydraulics check out, and I suspect they will, since its all new stuff, you'll need to pull the tranny. When you're in there, check for oil leaks as well. If the trans input is leaking oil onto the disc it can also cause your symptoms. Also sounds like you need a clutch flex hose since its leaking, but thats not likely to cause your issue unless you run it empty
#26
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Im not gonna say anymore. All one needs to do is read the whole argument to see what your missing. Your idea would work great, if a seized throwout bearing was cabable of transfering enough torque to even effect the engines rpms. WHICH ITS NOT. The inside race of the bearing would spin on the input shart if the bearing was seized.
#27
Awww its cute. Your chiming in without actually reading all of it first. I wouldnt recommend it.
Im not gonna say anymore. All one needs to do is read the whole argument to see what your missing. Your idea would work great, if a seized throwout bearing was cabable of transfering enough torque to even effect the engines rpms. WHICH ITS NOT. The inside race of the bearing would spin on the input shart if the bearing was seized.
Im not gonna say anymore. All one needs to do is read the whole argument to see what your missing. Your idea would work great, if a seized throwout bearing was cabable of transfering enough torque to even effect the engines rpms. WHICH ITS NOT. The inside race of the bearing would spin on the input shart if the bearing was seized.
#28
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By seized, I mean its not spinning as easily as it should, not necessarily completely seized up like its welded together. The clutch can still disengage if the pilot is seizing, however the input shaft on the trans may continue to spin, causing difficult shifting. It's unlikely that a faulty pilot bearing will transfer the full torque of the engine to the trans. So, to test for clutch dis-engagement, go about 30mph in second gear and push in the clutch(while still on the throttle). If the engine revs, clutch is disengaging and I'd be checking the pilot bearing. If the engine does not rev, clutch is not disengaging and you'll need to check the hydraulics.
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#29
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Lets say his clutch is not disengaging, and when he's going 30 mph and pushes in on the clutch while still on the throttle, and the rpms don't raise up. That would reveal that the clutch is not disengaging just like you said. How in heck did he get the truck into gear in the first place to do this test? Or shift gears for that matter? Or stop without killing the motor? Or better yet, he already knows the clutch isnt disengaging, he just doesnt know why. He just needs to verify the hydraulics are working properly, and the "clutch pedel bracket", and if their all good then get a new clutch. The clutch basket can also go bad and cause the clutch not to release, by it not releasing doesnt mean its definitely hydraulics to blame either.
#30
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Pull your guys' panties up.
If you push in the clutch and engine revs WITHOUT any problem, the clutch is disengaging and the hydraulics are most likely fine. If it doesnt rev like it normally should, or the truck inches forward with the clutch depressed, the hydraulics ARE NOT good.
The OP doesnt need to go threw all those steps to figure out weather its hydros or clutch.
#31
Lets say his clutch is not disengaging, and when he's going 30 mph and pushes in on the clutch while still on the throttle, and the rpms don't raise up. That would reveal that the clutch is not disengaging just like you said. How in heck did he get the truck into gear in the first place to do this test? Or shift gears for that matter? Or stop without killing the motor? Or better yet, he already knows the clutch isnt disengaging, he just doesnt know why. He just needs to verify the hydraulics are working properly, and the "clutch pedel bracket", and if their all good then get a new clutch. The clutch basket can also go bad and cause the clutch not to release, by it not releasing doesnt mean its definitely hydraulics to blame either.
#34
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If you need to do that, then you have already solved the case haven't you?
Yup I had to start it in gear to find out I couldnt put it in gear while its running, huhu,
Yup I had to start it in gear to find out I couldnt put it in gear while its running, huhu,
#35
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I can easily shift throughout the gear range without using the clutch at all.
#36
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I never pulled mine down, was I supposed to have?
If it were bad enough to feel it inching forward you would never be able to get it into gear, ever. Come on!! You guy's are all missing this. If the clutch is draging bad enough to notice it through rpms , or inching forward when in gear, then its not going to go into gear to conduct a drive test. In fact we dont need a drive test at all. The mechanic shop doesnt do it, the dealer doesnt do it, and they fix millions of clutches every year without having to drive them first. In fact since we have been talking they probably have fixed 500 clutches. Road test's are ok in some situations but theres more variables then what are being discussed here. You cant just say (if it doesnt rev its this part for sure) im not gonna admit thats a applicable test in this situation. Sorry.
The OP doesnt need to go threw all those steps to figure out weather its hydros or clutch.
If it were bad enough to feel it inching forward you would never be able to get it into gear, ever. Come on!! You guy's are all missing this. If the clutch is draging bad enough to notice it through rpms , or inching forward when in gear, then its not going to go into gear to conduct a drive test. In fact we dont need a drive test at all. The mechanic shop doesnt do it, the dealer doesnt do it, and they fix millions of clutches every year without having to drive them first. In fact since we have been talking they probably have fixed 500 clutches. Road test's are ok in some situations but theres more variables then what are being discussed here. You cant just say (if it doesnt rev its this part for sure) im not gonna admit thats a applicable test in this situation. Sorry.
The OP doesnt need to go threw all those steps to figure out weather its hydros or clutch.
#37
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So yes, youre right. The test is pointless, but it is still applicable. Just not in this situation. If I was the OP Id CHECK EVERYTHING RELATED TO THE CLUTCH, and if everything looks like youd expect it to, flush out the entire clutch system, then bleed readjust it. I say this because it is a very low dollar fix. If that doesnt fix anything, just get a new clutch kit since youre going to have to drop the tranny anyways to check throwout bearing, clutch, etc.
#38
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Have you even ever drivin a truck with a manual transmission? If the truck is inching forward with the pedal all the way to the floor, it means that the clutch is either very worn
#39
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#40
I am a real auto mechanic. No hammering required. When the engine is at the right speed, the synchros do the rest. That's how they are supposed to work. My original intention here was to determine if the shifting issue was because of weak hydraulics or a spinning input shaft. Either of which can cause difficult shifting. Apparently you are not a real mechanic since you don't understand the difference. Yes, this is a test I have done. And after this has been determined, the next appropriate step can be taken. I don't have the luxury of throwing parts at my customers cars. And I wouldn't tell anyone on this forum to do that either. I am here to learn and to share what I already know based on my experiences as a tech