Can sombody tell me if a Pinched PCV hose could make the CEL come on and if so, could it throw a CODE 52, Knock sensor??? Thanks!

 

Anybody here have any idea??

 

I don't think the PCV hose whould have any effect on anything but the PCV but I am not tottaly sure.

 

well I think it can, because if you are not getting your crankcase gases recycled for combustion there would be more oxygen in the mixture and more oxygen makes it more combustible and it might knock due to the mixture lighting up due to pressure before the sparkplug ignites it.

I am pretty new in but from what I've learned what I just said makes sense to me. I would reccomend to get other's opinions as well.

good luck! keep us posted with your findings

 

Greetings,
A code 52 on a 3.0 is 9 out of 10 times a knock sensor and/or wire usually caused by having the HG replced and or removed, they always go bad after the fact. Other things to check would be the timing, egr.
But to answer your question, a pinched pcv hose would cause a rough idle, you would notice it.
Good Luck!

 

Well I just called Toyota and the guy there said no.

So it must be Fact! lol

 

what does HG stands for??

 

Head Gasket

 

After doing my head gaskets I had a similar problem with the code 52 knock sensor. Being a bit of a logical sort I could not fathom that the knock sensor would go bad after changing the head gasket. My code 52 was not constant some days it would come on and stay on for a week or two then other times it would stay off for a week or two? This really baffled me as there was no common denominator to the problem. I read several documents some one posted on another board about knock sensors and how thay work but I was baffled? Why would changing head gaskets cause the piezeo electric element in the sensor to stop generating that tiny bit of votage it generates?

One day I was researching dyno locations with a google search and stumbled across this arcticle..
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0308it_pptalon/

what I found most intresting about this article was that proven documented dyno runs found 5.3hp and 16.3 ft/lbs of torque by simply grounding or as thay call it "hyper grounding"??

This got me thinking and I figured heck why not? I went to work grounding both cylheads,alt bracket,upper/lower manifold and any other logical part I could think of.

Guess what happend? Well I dont think I gained any big hp numbers but...I have not seen a code 52 in several months now? My alternator seems to be doing a much better job at holding voltage up when I have everything on at an idle and my black magic fan kicks on at full tilt. I think it was worth the effort even if all it did was save me the $100+ for a knock sensor and the lovely PITA of changing it out.

Im guessing the new head gaskets some how insulate the motor a little and the few millivolts the knock sensor generates is lost in the voltage differential between the different parts of the motor and the ecu. Your sensor may actually be bad but I would be darn curios how many good knock sensors went in the garbage due to weak grounding. The grounding will only cost ya the cash for wire and the time to solder ends on and get everything routed.

 

Interesting! Did you buy there grounding wires? Do you have Pics of the locations and routing of the ground wires ?? Thanks!

 

Good post Ganoid!

Yah, any pics?

 

You can buy a Hyper grounding kit on ebay which incldes a bundle of 10g wires at diferent lengths with loops soldered and shink wraped for about $10-$15. That's what I got. For that little money it's not worth my time to make my own.

 

I used to be big into car stereo in my younger years so I just used up a bunch of 4 and 8 ga wire I had laying around. I used the copper type connectors soldered on with a propane torch and a bit of shrink tubing over the joint to keep it sanitary. I think its important to think about how much current you can expect to be moving through the wire. The head/alt bracket junction got a 4ga wire because it will be a primary return for the alt but I dont think 4 ga is necessary to somthing like an intake manifold where its only grounding injectors and sensors? I left all my factory grounds in place and just ran additional ones. Electricity is like your average child it will always take the easiest path no matter what.

In my case I have a modified alt for 100 amps and I just figured 3-4 feet for wire length and came up with 4ga

If you would like the real scoop on wire guage and voltage drop there is a calculator here.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Im sure Roger Brown has some pics on his site as well as some other useful advice.

here is another threat where some one did this with some pics..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/upgraded-frame-engine-grounds-24815/
I would try and make it look a bit more sanitary but thats just me.