As some know I went south for my annual migration to SoCal from Washington state. I got my tranny lines amd temperature monitoring gaugews online but have not converted over to the external tranny cooler as of yet as there was not enough time to do so before I left. I will post up some pics and results of the trip once I get home. Right now I am in Oceanside.

To set the stage, I did all my pre-trip manitenance, I replaced my front brakes(tundra pads and new rotors from NAPA, got the hybrid ceramic pads and the gold premium NAPA rotors) drain flush and fill the radiator with Toyota red coolant and distilled water. Installed new radiator hoses upper and lower.

Left last Friday around 2pm and promptly hit traffic in Tacoma, Lacey and Portland. 3 hour trip into Oregon took 5 1/2 hours. Temperature was in the 70-80 range. Drove through central California where it had hit 100's during the day at night with temps anywhere from 70-80's so it was very comfortable and not heating issues.

Saturday would see temps hitting the mid to upper 90's by 10am. My first indication of a potential problem was when I shifted the A/C on, the fan did not come on. I checked high speed manual oer ride and it was working, so I shifted to hgh speed while running the A/C. I did this all the way into LA. Took Grapevine grade to Lebec without issue and no evidence of any overheating with the engine or tranny. Got into Los Angeles around noon and took I-405. Speed was running around 60-65 mph.

Got to the merge of I-405 & I-5. I-5 was jammed solid! I was in the car pool lane so it was 8 lanes from where I was to the right side shoulder. As we slowed to merge into the I-5 parking lot, I noted my temp started to rise slightly. My LED indicators showed that the fan was running in high speed but as I was now literally going less then 5 MPH, I couldhear nothing coming from the fan and my temp was slowly increasing. Outside air temp was now in the high 80's. I was now desperate to get to the shoulder and quick!. My son lended assistance by leaning out the window to warn cars to let us over (wouldhave been a gr8 video!) Fortunately I did get to the shoulder and the shade of two large Euycalptus trees just as my temp gauge hit the middle of the RED band, I shut the truck off, popped the hood and observed the overflow hose do a bit of an Irish jig. Everything seemed to hold and we opted to sit out the time and let the rig cool down as I began to prepare to trouble shoot.

I made up two new jumpers to test the fan, a new ground and another to test each fan speed. I used spade male connectors and plugged the jumper into each HOT side for each fan speed. both lowand high speed worked perfect, eliminated the fan being fried. Checked both fuses, theone for my low speed fan was melted ... not the fuse, but the fuse itself, the plastic part of the fuse. There was also some melting of the contacts where the fuse blades connected with the fuse holder. We waited about an hour and the traffic had begun to thin slightly and so we packed up our gear, I hard wired the slow speed side of the fan to the battery and we took off. We only had about another 45 minutes till we arrived at my parents and once we got away from the merge of the two interstates traffic began to flow in the 50mph+ range.

The issue I have is not so much what caused the failure of the fan controller but the failure of BOTH manual and automatics systems. I think one issue could have been a damaged ground path. When I tested the relay for the manual high speed control it worked fine. I was able to acquire a replacement controller for the automatic temperature contol and after some dicussion with the manager about this now being the third controller in 2 years, he replaced the unit at no cost to me (thank you AutoZone).

After installing the replacement controller I removed the relay from the damaged one. Seems something in the design may be amiss. there was corrosion on 3 of the 5 contacts and pins on the relay as wellas the controller contacts. I cleaned the relay contacts and tested it and the relay operates correctly. The problem with the over heating initially seems to be the fact that I lost air flow across my radiator. If I had been able to keep moving, I would have been able to make it without having to takemy truck to such potentailly crippling temperatures.

I have concerns right now with the functionality of my cooling system as it was functioning great before I did the maintenace on the co9oling system which was only to replace the coolant and hoses. The levels are at the prescribed levels and % using the prescribed coolant and distilled water. My concern is now with the system as I took my boys to San Diego to drop them off downtown for ComiCon. In the xourse of doing this, I ended up in stop and go traffic dwontown San Diego. While stopped at a light, noted my temp beginning to rise again like it had done in LA. Only this time I could hear the fan running along with LED indication of it running. Before it got to the RED line I went to high speed manual over ride and the temp immediatly began to drop. Once I was movig again in traffic, the temp returned to normaland I shifted back to automatic mode.

Sorry for the long read but needed to set up what happened so I can get some relavent feedback. So any ideas as to why my cooling system might seem to be less efficient then it was BEFORE the coolant flush? I am going to be here till the weekend when I have to head back north. Any suggestions would be welcome, I do not want to have to deal with another failure on the trip back. Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Well after almost 200 views ... no one had any suggestions. I ended up finding an AutoZone near my parents home. Went in to talk to the store manager about warranty of the TorqFlo controller. Explained the situtation to him that this would be the 3rd such controller in 2 years. We exchanged the usual questions, and in the end, he gave me another controller, no charge.

I completely removed the old system and installed the new controller. After installation I went to test the new controller and noted for some reason, I still was not getting power to the low speed fan. Tested the relay operation along with relay output continuity and all seemed to be fine. But later as I continued to attemp to adjust the controller, it still would not turn on the fan in low speed. This one appeared to be dead and would not turn on the fan at any position of the rheostat pot.

It should be noted here that I installed the two speed electric fan out of a 1995 Ford Taurus. This fan and its attached fuse/relay panel was only on the 1995 model, prior to 1995 Ford used a control module wired directly to the fan and after 1995 they went to dual fans. I thought maybe I had a defective fuse/relay panel so off to the local wrecking yard I went in search of a replacement. I did not find one, out of over 100 1990's Taurus, Sable, Thunderbird vehicles, I only found ONE 1995 ... and the fan and all wiring was GONE! I ended up locating a 1994 that had the same fan. I cut out the wiring from the fan to the control module so I would have both ends of the connector and made it into a "jumper". I was able to then attach it to my fan's connector and the other end to my fan relay harness (OEM connector) and just took the relay/fuse assembly out of the equation. Now I had full continuity to both sides of the fan. Seems when I made my emergency jumper the spade connector was bigger then the low speed plug connector and I could no longer get a solid connection.

After installing the new jumper, I attempted to test the newly installed controller and still it would not turn on the low speed fan. Went back to AutoZone and bought another replacement controller. This one was slightly different in that the temp sensor now had a connector in line to make install of the temp probe easier. After getting this one installed, I hooked up everything and now when I connected the temp probe connector, the low speed fan came on. I could not turn it off. Attempted to set the control point of the rheostat, but now this unit would not turn off! I even tried using the temp probe from the original failed unit and it would not turn on. bottom line here is I had another failed unit out of the box.

The next day I went to another AutoZone and exchanged the first failed unit for another new unit. After I installed this one, everything worked prefect, A/C, low speed with auto cutoff and auto start. LED indicators displayed correctly for each speed. The hi-speed override operated independently via its own relay and switch position. Took the second failed unit back to AutoZone and they refunded my purchase, no questions asked.

I had no issues on the trip back, and called TorqFlo on Wednesday. Talked to one of their technical staff. It seems that what I experienced is not an isolated incident. They have been working on correcting and modifing this model controller. They also told me that for some reason when an OEM fan is used with their model 733647 controller, they have had issues with it "burning" itself out. They are still trying to figure out just what the cause is but they seem to think that the OEM fans turn with more resistance then the aftermarket fans. If it is used with pretty much anybody's aftermarket cooling fan they have had near ZERO issues. Their engineering has not been able to totally figure out the issue but claim they are still working on it. Their recommendation was to use a higer rated relay (say 50 amp) then the one they supply. The unit comes with a 40 amp relay and 30 amp inline fuse for the output to the fan. They also noted that the issue I had this time with the fuse holder and fuse itself melting was somehow connected to the power output to the fan drawing excessive amperage. Even thought it does not blow the 30 amp fuse. I found this a bit odd seeing how they use a fuse rated at 30 amps. Another issue I noted in the first controller is when I pulled the relay off the controller, I found corrosion on the center pins of both the relay and the controller. Is it possible that moisture getting into the relay contacts may have aided in the controller failure?

I told the Tech rep I am going to do the following to this controller; install a higher rated relay as was suggested by TorqFlo then run a sealing bead of silicone ATV around the base of the relay and controller to help eliminate the possible entry of any water/moisture into the relay/controller contacts. They seemed to concur with my actions and asked me to report back to them in 6 months and then 1 year to see how it is doing. It may be a while till I get any results but will report back with any updates

 

good posting, I've thought about doin the electric for a while now. But seems i might wait a little longer. Good to know some places still have decent customer service.

 

okay I will stick my neck out here. If the fan controller seem to be the weak link then can't they be bypassed completely?

By that I am meaning full manual control -wouldn't it be better to have overkill on the fan speed at all times as opposed to the potential for failure when you need it most?

I realize I must be oversimplifying the entire wiring setup-but would it not be preferable to simply run with no relay and just a toggle switch for on/off?

As always Ritz you're probably the only guy that can figure out the whole complexity of what you have built-thus I am sort of saying step back and re-examine the whole setup.
Not being critical whatsoever-just trying to have you look at it from a different perspective.

 

Thanks ron, well I sorta did just that, but I know my install is solid. I ended up replacing the controller while I was in SoCal 3 times! Yeah you read that right, seems I got a string of defective units. I actually contacted TorqFlo and chatted with one of their tech reps. Seems I am not the only one to have this issue. The tech told me that they have been having issues with electric fans that are OEM. They have not been able to totally figure out the issue but seems that when someone is using a factory fan, the controller has problems. They seem to think it may have something to do with how the motor is wound/built and that the start up current and resistance of the motor windings at start up is causing the probem but they are not sure. They have had like ZERO issues with after market fans wheter they be their own of someones elses.

He recommended that I might consider replacing the current relay with a higher rated relay. the harness/controller comes with a 40 amp relay and a 30 amp fuse. Maybe I'm missing something here but the relay that comes with it should be more then enough.

One other issue I noted when I removed the controller was that it appeared that moisture or water collected at the center of the relay and caused some corrosion of the contacts and a possible short of the power across the pins of the relay. That might account for the damaged fuse holder and melted fuse casing. I mentioned this to the tech and made the suggestion that maybe I needed to run a bead of silicone ATV along the base of the relay and contact surface of the controller. He thought that would be a good idea and wants me to check back in with him in about 6 months and then in a year.

Right now the latest controller is operating just fine. I'll post more after I obtain any new data.

 

I know that this is a little off topic but have you noticed any improvements, power or MPG, in the vehicle with the electric fan mod?

 

Not really "off topic" as that is part of the reason for the electric fan mod. By removing the clutch fan you gain 1-2 horse power. On the highway doing average of 60-65 miles per hour flat terrain I get anywhere from 22-24 mpg and even with hilly terrain on I-5 going over the mountains I still averaged 21 mpg. The understanding I had on this was even though it is a small amount, its just that much less the engine is having to work. I am sure you will hear some arguements on this but it seems to be working for me. Another upside is its alot quieter

 

Have you got a part# for this new controller Ritzy?
I'm planning on doing the mod using the villager fan in the future when I have some extra cash (going to be putting in a new rad at the same time.
I would say the moisture is part of the problem that made the higher inrush current on start up problem worse.

 

the reason that the fuse holder melted but didnt blow the fuse is that the holder may not be rated for 30A so at the high load it is heating it up. I see this alot being an Electrician. may need a higher rated fuse holder!!

 

The TorqFlo part number for the adjustable controller is 733647. This is the one I obtained from Auto Zone and the one they normally carry in stock. They also carry the preset/fixed temperature relay controller which is what I used for my high speed connection minus the probe. I have never had an issue with it (the part number for it eludes me). But it will be the one that is NOT varible.

The tech also recommended a different model that has the temp sensor that is actually installed in the upper hose. Seems he said, you remove the upper hose, insert the probe in the hose opening and then re-install the hose back on the radiator carefully sliding the hose over the wire lead then clamping the hose back into position ... the part number for that controller is 733653.

In either case you may want to call Compressor Works and talk directly with one of their technical representatives and discuss with them just exactly what you need. 1-866-766-2294.

Interesting idea, but that is the one Compressor Works installs on the TorqFlo controller. As this is moulded into the controller it would be difficult to replace it with a higher rated holder. This was only the first of the previous two that melted the fuse.

 

This has always seemed strange to me. The "probe in the top hose" never sounded right. The top hose is the return from the engine, of course it's going to be hot. If you are cruising down the highway, there will be plenty of air flowing thru the radiator cooling the fluid. The return (top hose) would still be 190 deg plus. If the radiator is working properly you don't need a fan while on the highway.

I would think that you would want the probe in the bottom hose. This would detect that the coolant is still hot coming out of the radiator and the fan would be needed to draw air thru to cool it.

Just an opinion.

 

I've never figured out how you are supposed to attach the probe to the rad without ending up with a hole in the foolish thing.

 

This is a "fan"tastic post.. But seriously, I'm sending the link over to a buddy who is installing a Taurus fan.

 

Yeah great question, but inserting in between the fins between the radiator cooling colums is the best way to do it. One other installation shows mounting the probe long wise agains the inside of the radiator and securing it somehow with a loop holder. In effect the probe lays flat against the inside surface of the radiator. I couldn't figure out how to attach the loop without screwing it into the fins as well. One other thing I did on my first install was to mix up amount of JB weld Quik (about the size of a dime on the paper) then used it very sparingly to hold the probe in postion after I used an awl to slightly spread the fins enough to insertr the probe. Dad a tiny bit on the probe and the fins and it set up just fine. Using so little, it did make it easier to remove when I had the failure.

Ya just gotta love a sense of humor! If your buddy has any questions I will be happy to answer any he may have if they have any problems on location or isntallation. The only really tricky part of the install is removal of the fan and bolt studs along with getting the fan shoulds to match up and then attaching them.

 

I've done the tarus two speed fan conversion, std aftermarket controller and relay just didn't hold up. I finally went with an manual switch for hi/off/lo, running it through 60 amp relays I acquired from a forklift dealership. So far it has performed flawlessly, as long as I stay on my toes!

 

I run the Ford Taurus fan on my truck, street rod and custom. I run a Ron Francis Wire Works sensor, High Amp Relays and Auto / Manual switches. I have never had a problem on any of the vehicles due to fan / controller failure. Most electric fan controllers that are available can not handle the Taurus electric fan amp load, especially on high speed mode, and usually fail. I did my own design / install and my sensor is located in my water neck. In addition, I always modify my thermostats by removing the small pin and drilling out the hole to 1/4". This modification insures flow across the sensor and eliminates temperature overshoot on startup (until the thermostat opens). In addition, make sure all wires going to the fan are at least the same size as the fan wires. The electric switching relays that I used are rated at 70-80 amps. The high speed fan circuit automatically comes on when the A/C comes on or if I select it manually. My Taurus fan is mounted in the stock Toyota shroud on my 1983 Toyota truck, make sure you use a shroud when using this fan. I lived in Florida for years and never had a overheating problem.

 

The Taurus fan is a really popular upgrade for the Fox Mustang crowd. As you probably know, they are OEM quality and much more reliable and flow better than the black magic or tragic as they are called on the Mustang forums. What a lot of us use as far as a controller is dccontroller.
http://dccontrol.com/constant_temper...ontrollers.htm
These controllers do not have the typical 2 step fan speed. They will dynamically ramp up the fan as needed thus keeping your engine at a constant temp and not spike the electrical system that really only affects the factory 85 amp 5.0 mustangs and alike.
They have their own temp sender that you fit into the blades of the return side of the radiator. I also wired up a 30 amp relay and put a switch inside the cab so I can override it just in case of failure or whatnot... I run this in my 5.0 connected to a 4000 max cfm dodge viper fan and it works great. I would suggest looking into this controller, especially if you are on your third one now... A lot of potential issues can arise from overheating and cost you a lot more down the road....
I haven't put one in my 4runner yet but that is on my long list of things to do...
Kevin

 

I just had to swap out the thermal controller myself for the same melted fuse harness issue. Brought my laptop with me to AutoZone to show them the thread on it and that it is a known problem.

 

I have read all of the posts on this subject and I go back to the Amp rating of the fan. No aftermarket manufacturer / supplier makes a controller to handle the Taurus fan amps directly. If you have the controller operate high amp rated relays then the controller will survive and work correctly. You should use a Circuit Breaker (Manual Reset) with a high enough Amp rating for each speed of the fan. I have run my Taurus fan system for 20+ years without a failure or a problem.

 

While you may have had excellent sucess with your set up are you using the same temp controller from Auto Zone? I went through 3 in less then a year and two in a single month. Now that was about 3-4 years ago now and (touch wood) no further issues . There are several inherent issues but There must be an issue if this keeps happening to the ones purchased from AutoZone, but they have been really good about replacing them when mine failed