That is actually pretty clever diagnosis to use natural frequencies to target certain component systems because they are correct, each one will vibrate at a different place on the spectrum.

http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ion_School.htm
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us50126.htm

 

Did you ever fix this problem?

I'm a total newb that is going to be installing this lift (Tundra TRD-front/OME-rear) and hope I don't run into the same problems you did...

 

Do you have a 2WD, this only happens with 2WD. Not 4WD.

 

Oh! I've got a 4x4.
Not a problem then phew!

 

Well now that I have the tailgate replaced, I am ready to get rid of this vibration. I have contacted All Pro Offroad about the adjustable control arms, with no luck. I need to get the angles right on the d-shaft but am not sure where to turn. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the pinion angle to tip down about 1-2 degrees on a coil spring rear suspension? That is what has to be done in order to get rid of this.

If all else fails, I'll be going back to stock, which I really don't want to do but if I have to, I have to.

 

I should post a pic of my diff with the leaf springs, I turned the diff up as high as I could to keep the flange out of the rocks.

I "know" I have more than 1-2 degrees higher that it should be. I really don't think this is your problem.

I'm willing to bet that the shaft is too long and inserted too far. Can you find a junk yard rear drive shaft to mess around with? As simple as they are, no double CV, etc. they should be cheap.

Also if you want to go down the tip the diff road, order the sleeve and bushing from Spidertrax, it not on there site anymore but I bet they can still machine one. Have them make a set of lower links just a hair shorter than they made the set for me and then weld a bushing/sleeve to a big bolt and you will have a stock bushing on a Currie Johnny Joint type adjustable link.

Bottom of the page, Update 8-29-2004:

http://www.sonoransteel.com/spidertrax.html

You can see they need to me shorter, since mine are set to stock length and a bit more adjustablility would be nice.

 

Thanks Steve.

I would really like to pin-point the problem before I go and spend more $$ to fix something that ins't broke. I talked to the shop that did my driveshaft lengthening this morning and I have an appointment to have it looked at next week. I hope he can determine the angles and see if that is infact the problem or perhaps something else. I am bound and determined to get this licked once and for all, because I really love the ride and handling on and off road of this setup and would like keep it on. BTW those lower arms look great!

 

So what happened??? I have a lifted 2wd 4runner and I get the same noise. It became much more pronounced when I went to 4.88's because the driveshaft is spinning faster.

Symptoms:
I only get it at highway speeds in 5th gear.
I get it when coasting or when I am very lightly on the gas.
I get it when I pull it out of 5th and leave in neutral

So if you were able to find a solution please let me know.

 

I know I am trying to revive a thread that has been dead for 3 months, but I must have missed this one when it was going on.........

So I got to thinking (scary) and if length really is the culprit in all of this what about adding a spacer between the differential flange and the u-joint flange effictively lenghthing the driveshaft? From what I saw from skimming through the post his driveshaft may have been lengthened a little too much. A spacer is cheap enough that you could get a few different thickness' to see if there is a magic amount.

Below is a picture of Marlin's pinon flange. Basically the spacer would look just like the outer piece, almost just a drilled plate.


It looks as if a spacer would fit between the differential flange and the u-joint flange.


So what do you all think?

 

Nolan,
I had the shaft shortened...they shoretened it too much...argh!!! I am back to square one. No time to mess with it now. I need to take it someplace else and have it looked at. I do know that every time I had it 'worked' on, the vibration became pronounced at a different speed (mph) than before I took it in.

 

So does anyone see anything wrong with the spacer idea?

 

I actually though of the same thing, but was not sure. It looks like it would work in theory. The whole flange, with a thicker base may be better than just a spacer. I am glad I am not alone on this one. We will get this thing licked...I hope!

 

Hey man, I was doing a search cause I've got a vibration after installing front spacers and OME 891's and N86C shocks in the rear...sounds like since I have a 4WD I shouldn't have a problem but I was wondering if you got yours fixed and if 4WD runners would have a problem too??

Thanks,

Fink

 

Hi there,
I had extreme vibration problems not immediately after installing the OME set but after installing the front spacers to level out the lift. I had a positive or negative (can't remember) camber which wore out the inside edge of my front tires. I was supposed to get an alignment after the spacers were installed but never did. I pretty much destroyed my BFG All Terrains after a few months. I got new tires, bfg muds, and an alignment, finally, and the vibration went away.

 

I to also installed the OME Rear Springs to level out my 97 4-Runner Limited. Every since doing this I know have a Scraping Noise or Rattling Noise of some sort? I "Personally" have no idea what's going on. I can't figure it out & I had it in the shop a few times & they did not see anything?

The ride quality & appearance of the (Non-Saging Rear) looks great. But this noise is starting to scare the hell out of me!

 

I have a rear noise too, its more of a clank than a rattle and it only does it over small washboard type bumps versus big bumps. I can't remember if it happened after the lift, or after the panhard/super soft bumpstops. I haven't really spent much time diagnosing it so I'm not going worry too much yet, could be I need to re-tighten the bumpstops or something.

Good luck with it man, often times stuff like that can be a rock or something that has gotten in a place where it should not. I have had a baseball sized rock get inside the shell of the rear bumper and absolutely drive me NUTS before. Also, check your trailer hitch sometimes the bolts can get a little loose and squirly just over time, this happened on my old stock hitch before I installed the new Hidden Hitch.

Good luck man, I doubt if it is anything to do with the rear springs, not sure how those could really rattle, and if a shop didn't find anything it may just be one of those freak things that will never be solved, god I hate those!!

Fink

 

Thanks for the reply back.

I realize the Coil Springs are not what is ratling....

Could installing these OME Coil Springs actually change my driveshaft angle & be what is making this dreadful rattling/scraping & vibration (the vibration is only @ highway speeds).

Do they make kits that can lower my transfer case housing if the angle of my driveshaft is not within spec?

Thanks!

 

Anyone having problems with there 4Runners installing OME Springs call this guy.

OME U.S. Distributer
888-427-2878
Steve/Tech Dept.

When I called & told him about the problems I've been having, he told me that he never heard of anyone having problems..... Tell this guy all your problems? I got the feeling he did not believe?

 

wow I had never read this thread, i guess there goes the lift on my 2wd

 

If you call the guy make sure you tell him it's a 2WD with the SLIP YOKE drive shaft and not the 4WD with the SLIP SHAFT.

The 4WD has a slide section in the drive shaft itself, the 2WD has a transmission coupler that slides.

Now the current and all Jeep Wranglers, have this same slip yoke, but there are kits to eliminate it when lifting the Jeep. They then go to a slip shaft style.