OK here's my 2cents worth.

Does anyone know if we can put a 4wd drive shaft setup on our 2wd? Or have a FSM that shows the difference between the drive shafts?


Stephen, are you still using the cone bump stops inside your rear springs? I still have them in, and I am thinking that taking them out will lessen the lift and therefore lessen the angle of the drive shaft. Maybe enough to make a difference.

Steve, are you saying that by extending the drive shaft we may rid ourselves of this vibration/humming sound? I am under the impression that the cause of our problems is the lack of a double cardigan which essentially cuts the angle in half of what a single cardigan has to handle. If you think extending the drive shaft may help reduce the angle, it's worth a shot.

Or are you saying it's not the angle at all, but rather that our drive shafts are extended too far? Heres some pics for reference.

 

Thanks for the answer on that. nice job and looks like it's working well for ya. I'm out.

 

Ah crap. You guys are already ahead of me. By the time I posted what I was thinking, you already said it and took pics and put in your old spings and measured everything. You must be tired.

One thing that would be great to have come out of all this is to find some way to let vendors of OME know to tell 2wd guys that they will have issues with their drive shaftsif they put OME springs on. Pass the word on.

 

No I removed them when I did the install. I got plenty of lift and levelling without using them. I doubt removing them will make much difference. Since I don't have them. Getting closer...

 

Yeah I am a pro at both removing rear suspension components and removing the driveshaft

That is a great idea about informing OME, I checked their application guide and it does not differentiate between 2wd and 4wd applications. So I am sure they would like to know.

 

That would work but keep in mind that those bolts are special Toyota grade 11 and super fine thread.

They are also extremely strong and extremely expensive.

 

No. The 4WD shaft has to use a fixed flange. Your tranny has a slip shaft output not a fixed flange.

The 4WD shaft slips in the shaft, the 2WD shaft slips at the output slip shaft.

FWIW all Jeep Wranglers have slip shaft outputs as well which is why tons of companys make a slip shaft eliminator for the N231. They then go to a 4WD 4Runner style slip shaft.

Toyotas have more heavy duty parts stock than Jeeps. A jeep can be built up with aftermarket.

What we learned from building my steering shaft for the Dana 44 is that 2 single U-Joints will actually carry more angle. The double CV will spin smoother at high speed. The angles you guys have are very small. Take a look at some of the real short Jeep TJ rear custom driveshafts, then you'll see some steep angle.

Yes it is the fact that your slip shaft is pulled out too far. Happens to Jeeps as well and the band aid fix is to lower the transfer case down 1" pushing the shaft back in a bit.

I'm telling you this is it. And you guys should be running those rear bump stops I make ESPECIALLY if you pulled the cones. Also get a set of stock front sway bar end links from a junk yard and run them in the rear, they will re-level the rear sway bar.

Here's a pic for you guys................

60 MPH in 4WD on a home made front end and no vibrations !!! Yeah.........



I'm not hitting the bump stops on compression, so I still need to work on that.

 

Also if the plate were not balanced properly you'd create a vibration from that as well.

I think the driveshaft length may be key here but it was unclear to me before I saw any pics. Now that I have seen how far out the shaft is, I would definately take a look at how much engagement you have with the output splines in relation to stock and when lifted.

You might take a pic of the tranny output splines when you get the driveshaft off again.

 

Jamie,
I will take some pics to further document the issue.

Steve,
I am going to email you about getting some adapters fabricated for the bumpstops.

Thanks!!!

 

Well I am going to another driveshaft shop tomorrow morning to have the driveshaft lengthened, re-tubed and balanced. I felt like this guy actually wanted my business unlike the first place I took it. His prices are very reasonable. So we'll see. I'll keep ya'll posted.

 

How much is it going to set you back if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking for a place to do it for me out here in Las Vegas. You're just having it lengthened, right?

 

Lengthened, Retubed, and Balanced $135
U-joints - $20 each

He said he would remove and re-install it for me. Cool!!!

 

Have you decided how much you will lengthen it by?
That seems like a very good price too.

 

Well I was 7/16" short so if he can get that precise then that's cool, but if he has to go to 1/2" I don't see 1/16 being an issue...I hope.

Yeah I thought that price was fair.

 

Might as well do the full 1/2" to be on the safe side.
I doubt you will bottom out the splines on the slip yoke.

 

I'm anxously waiting on the outcome of this. I hope it works. Let us know how it goes.

 

Well I am really getting pi$$ed at these so called driveshaft specialists. I took the truck in this morning and the guy tells me that my driveshaft is plenty long enough it is just out of balance so he tells me he will install the new u-joints and that should take care of it. I asked him to lenghten it by 1/2 inch and he said he cant lenthen it because of the way it tapers toward the transmission slip shaft and there is rubber inside of it and there was no way to lengthen it because of that. He assures me that it is not the length and the balancing will take care of it. So they take it off, put the joints in, re-balance the shaft and it was off a little but not enough to cause the problem. Then I pay the man and start to drive it. The friggin vibration is still there, it is no worse and no better. What the hell? I was about to turn around and go back but I only paid him for what he did so there is really nothing else he can do. I call another place an hour away and he said that he could retube it taper or no taper and it wouldn't be a problem. I am going to give them a try on Monday. So hopefully they can fix it. I will report my findings as soon as I have a vibration free 4runner. Wish me luck!

 

It really is hard to find a good drive shaft place. No kidding.

That is why I sent my front drive shaft all the way to High Angle in CA.

The dipstick had no clue, give the other guys a shot. When they retube it, they cut the welds and replace the tube with a longer one.

My original drive shafts were tapered, now they are not, now they are streight, like yours will be.

 

After all, what else could it be? Slide it all the way back in and it's fine, pull it out and it vibrates, makes sence to me.

 

I totally agree.I tried to explain this to the guy this morning, but first he said it was long enough, and then he said he couldn't lengthen it, I am thinking great...here we go again...I am getting the shaft These guys worked mainly on commercial type trucks, dumptrucks, concrete trucks, etc. The other shop seemed to know what I was trying to explain and he said he would make it straight all the way down. I really hope this shop can take care of me! If this were not my DD I would send it off, but that is not an option.