OME 881's (Question regarding top spacer) Worried about full droop
#1
OME 881's (Question regarding top spacer) Worried about full droop
I've had the OME coils (881 and 890's from Toytec) for a couple of years running the green Tokico shocks along with the top spacers that came with the kit. However, the shocks up front did not last long and I decided to replace them with the OME 90004's. During the installation I ran into a problem as the shocks seemed to be longer than the Tokico's and they would not fit, even when I turned the bottle jack upside down to push the assembly down. I had to to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the LBJ and get it in that way. Same problem from this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p...roblem-240282/
Although I finally got everything assembled correctly, I felt that at full droop the angle was too extreme, meaning the CV's and ball joints seemed pretty stressed, and I am still having trouble deciding whether or not to keep the top spacers or to take them out. I do have a 1" diff drop. I am replacing the steering rack and ball joints currently so I have a chance to take them out. Does anyone have any experience with this or any advice? It seems like I gained a little bit of lift with the OME shocks so I wouldn't mind taking the spacers out if this is the case but then again I might be imaging things.
Also, I felt like an idiot because while the Tokico's had a fixed "base" for the coil to sit on that was aligned to the mounting hole on the LCA, the OME's were free rotating and I realized I had to compress the coil while I had it in place (hanging from the 3 upper bolts) and then rotate the shock so that I could align it with the bottom hole (the one on the LCA). I guess my question for this is whether there was an easier way to do it for future reference. If so how would you make sure the angle was correct away from the vehicle?
Thanks in advance!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p...roblem-240282/
Although I finally got everything assembled correctly, I felt that at full droop the angle was too extreme, meaning the CV's and ball joints seemed pretty stressed, and I am still having trouble deciding whether or not to keep the top spacers or to take them out. I do have a 1" diff drop. I am replacing the steering rack and ball joints currently so I have a chance to take them out. Does anyone have any experience with this or any advice? It seems like I gained a little bit of lift with the OME shocks so I wouldn't mind taking the spacers out if this is the case but then again I might be imaging things.
Also, I felt like an idiot because while the Tokico's had a fixed "base" for the coil to sit on that was aligned to the mounting hole on the LCA, the OME's were free rotating and I realized I had to compress the coil while I had it in place (hanging from the 3 upper bolts) and then rotate the shock so that I could align it with the bottom hole (the one on the LCA). I guess my question for this is whether there was an easier way to do it for future reference. If so how would you make sure the angle was correct away from the vehicle?
Thanks in advance!
#5
I'm not running this setup nor have I but my understating is the OME shocks have built in lift, so using the with the spacers is going to be a bit much. Setting up the shock out of the truck is easy just make sure one of the top plate studs lines up with the lower shock mount, I missed that the first time I did it and had to recompress the spring to rotated the top plate a little.
#7
Yes I'm having this same issue. I installed 881 up front with Ome struts and top plate spacers from toytec. I fought with that sob for three hours trying to get the strut installed with the spacer. Two giant guys pushing down on the control arm with big breaker bars. While I tried to put the bottom through bolt in. I took the sway bar off, installed dif drop and did everything possible to get them in. My upper control arm was pushed down so far it was hitting the spring and still could not get the bolt to go through. The uca could physically not go down any further. So I called toytec they explained to.me what I already knew. They said they have never had this problem. So needless to say I'm running the front lift with no spacer. Now I've had the lift on for about 5 months and put about 1800 miles on it and love it but want to get the spacers on to give me some more lift. Any suggestions on mine would be great. I hate to say it but I'm glad someone else asked this because I did when I had this problem and no one really replied. Thanks
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#8
When I tried to install this I turned the bottle jack upside down and cranked it so far I thought the fender was about to fly out through the roof. I don't think you can install it without removing some screws from the lower ball joint (4 of them). It could also help removing the sway bar but I don't think I needed to. After these are removed you can press the lower control arm down and you should have a much easier time getting them on. Dont forget blue locktite when re-assembling those 4 bolts...its extremely important to keep them all in place on the road.
I just reverted back to the 881 without the spacers today but I have not put the truck back down on wheels to see how it looks because I have the steering rack and the whole front end out in pieces (one thing led to another repair). I'm no expert but it seemed that there was just too much stress with the spacers and while I ran it like this for half a year or so (with the OME shocks) I felt that during an offroad situation with full droop parts would be a little too stressed. I may be wrong (more than likely) but this was my impression and I didn't really need the extra clearance for larger tires or anything like that. The only thing that would bother me is if there was a noticeable "lean forward" where the back end sticks up higher than the front...a tiny bit is fine.
But anyways...hope that answered your question. Let me know how it goes or if you have any more questions.
I just reverted back to the 881 without the spacers today but I have not put the truck back down on wheels to see how it looks because I have the steering rack and the whole front end out in pieces (one thing led to another repair). I'm no expert but it seemed that there was just too much stress with the spacers and while I ran it like this for half a year or so (with the OME shocks) I felt that during an offroad situation with full droop parts would be a little too stressed. I may be wrong (more than likely) but this was my impression and I didn't really need the extra clearance for larger tires or anything like that. The only thing that would bother me is if there was a noticeable "lean forward" where the back end sticks up higher than the front...a tiny bit is fine.
But anyways...hope that answered your question. Let me know how it goes or if you have any more questions.
#9
As I've stated before I've never ran this setup, that said I was doing some reading on another forum and found some information about loosening the UCA mounts so the cams can move. I'm not sure I agree with this but if it would help you guys get them installed it may be worth a shot.
#10
Yeah I was planning on loosening the through bolt on the uca to see if that would help. I don't want to take the bolts out of the lower ball joint but if I have to then I will. I do have a slight rack look to it. But I don't mind the look so much but it the top plate is more functional for wheeling/clearance then I would like to do it. I will get a bottle jack and try that as well. But you would think 2 250lb men on breaker bars pushing down would do the trick lol. I will give it a try again next week along with installing longer brake hoses and my new bumper . Thanks for your help. I will keep you posted.
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