oil filter relocation
#1
oil filter relocation
Has anybody done a oil filter relocation to a 95 or older?
I did a search and did not come up with much.
I'm looking to see where it was mounted. I'm thinking the frame would be a good canidate.
A lot of you guys say they leak but, wouldn't steel braided lines with female ends cure this?
I know it's not a lot of work to unbolt the skidplate but then the oil from the filter drips on everything (including me) by the time you twist and turn it to get it out.
I did a search and did not come up with much.
I'm looking to see where it was mounted. I'm thinking the frame would be a good canidate.
A lot of you guys say they leak but, wouldn't steel braided lines with female ends cure this?
I know it's not a lot of work to unbolt the skidplate but then the oil from the filter drips on everything (including me) by the time you twist and turn it to get it out.
#2
i dunno why, but not a lot of posts are being put up lately or all of my posts are getting ignored, but anyhow....
I saw one person on here who had relocated their oil filter on their 2nd gen to the driver's side wheel well and had no complaints. I have been pondering the PP oil relocation kit myself. With a cordless drill with a drive socket adapter the skid plate isnt all that bad, just annoying as hell.
I know of a Ford owner who was happy with his...
Steve
I saw one person on here who had relocated their oil filter on their 2nd gen to the driver's side wheel well and had no complaints. I have been pondering the PP oil relocation kit myself. With a cordless drill with a drive socket adapter the skid plate isnt all that bad, just annoying as hell.
I know of a Ford owner who was happy with his...
Steve
#3
I thought about doing an oil filter relocation on my truck, but no matter what type of hoses you have, they can still leak, break, or get snagged on something. I say this because I go off road a lot, but if that's not for you the it might not be a bad idea. It's tricky to get them out sometimes, but it makes it very easy if you get a fram, I think that's it, with the grippy top any you can get the oil out much easier. That's just my $.02
And also, Welcome to the best toyota board out there!
And also, Welcome to the best toyota board out there!
#4
I've done the filter relocation (last weekend) using the Performance Products kit. So far, no complaints, although I'm keeping an eye on the connection on the engine block, it seems like it might seep (not leak) some oil. I just did this, so I don't know how well it will work in the long run, but I have a picture of it on my website. I'll put more up sometime.
#5
I'm a little worried about mounting it in the wheel well where dirt, mud, rocks, ice, and snow would be thrown against it.
I guess the ice and snow could act as a little mini oil cooler.
When the weather gets nice, I think I'm going to look at mounting one on the frame somewhere.
I wonder what's the furthest away from the engine you could mount one?
I guess the ice and snow could act as a little mini oil cooler.
When the weather gets nice, I think I'm going to look at mounting one on the frame somewhere.
I wonder what's the furthest away from the engine you could mount one?
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#8
I must be the unlucky one here. I had the PP kit on mine & it blew off one of the lines coming off of the block. apparently a hose clamp came loose or was not on tight enough so needless to say it fried the engine.
I will say that while the kit was in use it really made oil changes breeze. I may eventually have different lines made that do not rely on hose clamps.
I will say that while the kit was in use it really made oil changes breeze. I may eventually have different lines made that do not rely on hose clamps.
#10
Well I trusted a mechanic to install the kit when he was putting my new rebuilt engine in. The hose stayed on for 7k w/o any signs of trouble or leaks. I was driving down the road & the truck just shut off & the rest is history.
I would make it a habit to ck the hose clamps every oil change. The strange thing is that the line that didn't come off at the block was also loose but at the filter both clamps were tight. Maybe he just wasn't able to tighten them down good enough at the block.
I would make it a habit to ck the hose clamps every oil change. The strange thing is that the line that didn't come off at the block was also loose but at the filter both clamps were tight. Maybe he just wasn't able to tighten them down good enough at the block.
#12
Thanks for the info, and kicking around this topic.
If I bought the Performance kit, I would go with braided line and female ends. Probably going to run into some $$ for the lines but, it would be cheaper than a fried engine and give me piece of mind.
I let you know how I make out (cost, effort, time, quality).
If I bought the Performance kit, I would go with braided line and female ends. Probably going to run into some $$ for the lines but, it would be cheaper than a fried engine and give me piece of mind.
I let you know how I make out (cost, effort, time, quality).
#13
I installed my P.P. kit 4 months ago (or so), Last night driving home from Va, 300 miles from my house, I checked the oil, 1/2 qt. low. . . no big deal right.
WRONG!!!! my output tube from the motor was leaking!!!
The same problem as a few post up, The hose clamp slipping from the nipple! I hope it doesn't blow before i can get it to my mechanic, NEXT MONDAY!!!!
Please post were u get your hoses from, the braided ones, i will definetly be interested in getting some.:pat:
WRONG!!!! my output tube from the motor was leaking!!!
The same problem as a few post up, The hose clamp slipping from the nipple! I hope it doesn't blow before i can get it to my mechanic, NEXT MONDAY!!!!
Please post were u get your hoses from, the braided ones, i will definetly be interested in getting some.:pat:
#14
Originally posted by 98Tacoma
I installed my P.P. kit 4 months ago (or so), Last night driving home from Va, 300 miles from my house, I checked the oil, 1/2 qt. low. . . no big deal right.
WRONG!!!! my output tube from the motor was leaking!!!
The same problem as a few post up, The hose clamp slipping from the nipple! I hope it doesn't blow before i can get it to my mechanic, NEXT MONDAY!!!!
Please post were u get your hoses from, the braided ones, i will definetly be interested in getting some.:pat:
I installed my P.P. kit 4 months ago (or so), Last night driving home from Va, 300 miles from my house, I checked the oil, 1/2 qt. low. . . no big deal right.
WRONG!!!! my output tube from the motor was leaking!!!
The same problem as a few post up, The hose clamp slipping from the nipple! I hope it doesn't blow before i can get it to my mechanic, NEXT MONDAY!!!!
Please post were u get your hoses from, the braided ones, i will definetly be interested in getting some.:pat:
In any event I'd check the oil on a daily or bi-daily basis before you start it and keep the oil in supply until it's fixed.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-08-2003 at 09:08 PM.
#15
See that would make sense to do that. . .
I tightened it as much as i can and "slid", I use that losley, the hose up as far as i could but without removing it, i am not sure i can rid myself of the problem completely.
quick question i heard that u can put synthetic in to top off regular oil but not the other way around, is that true???
I tightened it as much as i can and "slid", I use that losley, the hose up as far as i could but without removing it, i am not sure i can rid myself of the problem completely.
quick question i heard that u can put synthetic in to top off regular oil but not the other way around, is that true???
#16
Oh -
hmmm - Im wondering if the problems with this occuring is with the desing of the nipple tapering down.... Ill go digging at ACE hardware to see if they make a nipple that is flared at the tip and a tiny narrower closer to the threads.
How hard are the lines? Could the rubber hoses be too hard from the get go and are not being "bit" into by the rings of the nipple when the hose clamp is clamped down?
Im seriously considering this kit for my yota cuz I hate practicing being a contortionist to get the oil filter out...lol
hmmm - Im wondering if the problems with this occuring is with the desing of the nipple tapering down.... Ill go digging at ACE hardware to see if they make a nipple that is flared at the tip and a tiny narrower closer to the threads.
How hard are the lines? Could the rubber hoses be too hard from the get go and are not being "bit" into by the rings of the nipple when the hose clamp is clamped down?
Im seriously considering this kit for my yota cuz I hate practicing being a contortionist to get the oil filter out...lol
#17
when installing the kit the hardest part was getting the hoses onto the nipples, at the filter and at the engine.
Any thing you find if u could gimme a push via e-mail, i won't be back on for 15 hrs.
I like that smiley
Any thing you find if u could gimme a push via e-mail, i won't be back on for 15 hrs.
I like that smiley
#18
Perma-Cool is the company that makes the PP kit. On their website www.perma-cool.com they show fittings that will accept braided lines.
Maybe its time for a phone call to see what they have as replacements for the barbed ends & rubber hose.
Maybe its time for a phone call to see what they have as replacements for the barbed ends & rubber hose.
#19
Does the one from Proformance Products leak at the filter adapter, adapter connector to the engine, or hose connections?
If it's leaking at the adapters there is not much you can do with a poor seal at those places
I would double up on the hose clamps, and make sure all the threads are teflon taped.
If it's leaking at the adapters there is not much you can do with a poor seal at those places
I would double up on the hose clamps, and make sure all the threads are teflon taped.
#20
Mine never leaked it just simply blew one of the lines off. If your not going to switch to braided lines then use those clamps like they use on CV boots. The ones that you crimp on & then dbl those up.