OEM mini header install for 2.7L*(Pics)*
05-18-2010, 01:29 AM
#102
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07-12-2010, 06:33 AM
#103
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Just gotten the thing installed. Should've gotten new studs for the block. The thread was pretty rusty and torque wrench was not useful. Just tightened by feel.
I recommend getting new studs and nuts.
I recommend getting new studs and nuts.
Last edited by profuse007; 07-13-2010 at 10:56 AM.
07-13-2010, 11:01 AM
#105
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It's quieter, I know that much. Other than that, the engine performance is the same. I had two cracks, 3-4" in each, and I suppose the leak was making my engine light to come on. The code I had was P0420, IIRC.
Before, I noticed if I drive in the city a lot w/ stop and go, the light would come on. However if I were to drive on the highway when the light comes on, the light will turn OFF and stay off. I will update at 3K miles.
Before, I noticed if I drive in the city a lot w/ stop and go, the light would come on. However if I were to drive on the highway when the light comes on, the light will turn OFF and stay off. I will update at 3K miles.
08-30-2010, 06:47 AM
#106
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over 3K miles already and no check light engine come on. Before it would comes on a week and another week it would reset by itself and start over again. Now, nothing!!!
driving habit is still the same. 60% highway, 40% city. Still averaging 19mpg on premium unleaded.
driving habit is still the same. 60% highway, 40% city. Still averaging 19mpg on premium unleaded.
Last edited by profuse007; 08-30-2010 at 06:49 AM.
12-01-2010, 10:19 AM
#108
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Picked up the 3 gaskets at my local NAPA. Here are part #'s:
Main large gasket between block and manifold: NAPA/Fel-Pro #MS 92721
Between manifold and downtube: Fel-Pro #23561 (these are donut-shaped and packed separately, you need 2 of them)
EDIT: EGR tube: NAPA/Echlin #2-2646 gasket is apparently NOT the right one...
Main large gasket between block and manifold: NAPA/Fel-Pro #MS 92721
Between manifold and downtube: Fel-Pro #23561 (these are donut-shaped and packed separately, you need 2 of them)
EDIT: EGR tube: NAPA/Echlin #2-2646 gasket is apparently NOT the right one...
Anybody know the part number for the EGR tube gasket?
12-05-2010, 03:06 PM
#110
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Apologies for cross-posting, but I think my post from another thread might be helpful for other folks doing the swap. I was having a lot of trouble accessing one nut on the exhaust pipe on my 2.7 L:
A combo wrench or a ratchet won't turn, and an air ratchet won't fit on it. It took me a couple trips to the store, but I found what I needed.
To loosen that difficult-to-access nut on the exhaust pipe:
I used an indexable ratchet made by Pittsburgh Tools ($17 on sale at Harbor Freight). It's a cheapie tool, but it seemed to actually be pretty well-made. The indexable ratchet gave me an angle I could work with, but I still needed to get a 1 foot length of 1.25" pipe to give me the leverage needed to break the nut loose (1" pipe might also work, but it may damage the rubber grip, which is 1-1/8" at the widest point) . Once it was loose, the indexable ratchet was very useful, because you can unlock the head and pump the handle up and down to turn the 14 mm socket. I was pleased with the purchase.
To remove studs from the engine block:
After I got all the nuts off, I still couldn't remove the manifold piece because of the studs sticking out of the block, EGR tube, and exhaust pipe. To remove the studs from the block, you will need a E10 star socket. E9 might also work, but the set I bought at Harbor Freight only included an E8 (too small) and an E10 (just slightly loose). The set at Harbor Freight was on clearance for $9, and included:
"7 star E-sockets and 9 Torx star bits. Chrome vanadium steel E-socket sizes E6, E7, E8, E10, E12, E14, and E16. S-2 steel Torx bit sizes T10, T15, T20, T25, T30, T40, T45, T50, T55. Includes bit adapter and carrying case."
A combo wrench or a ratchet won't turn, and an air ratchet won't fit on it. It took me a couple trips to the store, but I found what I needed.
To loosen that difficult-to-access nut on the exhaust pipe:
I used an indexable ratchet made by Pittsburgh Tools ($17 on sale at Harbor Freight). It's a cheapie tool, but it seemed to actually be pretty well-made. The indexable ratchet gave me an angle I could work with, but I still needed to get a 1 foot length of 1.25" pipe to give me the leverage needed to break the nut loose (1" pipe might also work, but it may damage the rubber grip, which is 1-1/8" at the widest point) . Once it was loose, the indexable ratchet was very useful, because you can unlock the head and pump the handle up and down to turn the 14 mm socket. I was pleased with the purchase.
To remove studs from the engine block:
After I got all the nuts off, I still couldn't remove the manifold piece because of the studs sticking out of the block, EGR tube, and exhaust pipe. To remove the studs from the block, you will need a E10 star socket. E9 might also work, but the set I bought at Harbor Freight only included an E8 (too small) and an E10 (just slightly loose). The set at Harbor Freight was on clearance for $9, and included:
"7 star E-sockets and 9 Torx star bits. Chrome vanadium steel E-socket sizes E6, E7, E8, E10, E12, E14, and E16. S-2 steel Torx bit sizes T10, T15, T20, T25, T30, T40, T45, T50, T55. Includes bit adapter and carrying case."
Last edited by pendrag; 12-05-2010 at 03:08 PM.
12-07-2010, 01:29 PM
#111
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Finally got my mini-header installed. I'm idling the truck right now to bake on the VHT paint on the header. Should I tighten up all the nuts again after the truck's good and hot? I have a feeling that will take me from freezing my butt off (36 degrees and windy) to burning myself to bits on the exhaust.
12-07-2010, 01:45 PM
#112
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Finally got my mini-header installed. I'm idling the truck right now to bake on the VHT paint on the header. Should I tighten up all the nuts again after the truck's good and hot? I have a feeling that will take me from freezing my butt off (36 degrees and windy) to burning myself to bits on the exhaust.
12-07-2010, 02:01 PM
#113
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As I bake on the paint, I'm idling for 10 min, 20 min, and 30 min, and cooling between each idling. I'll crack her back open tomorrow and reassess how tight everything is.
I'm writing up my experience, here's how I tightened everything (since I don't have a torque wrench and probably couldn't fit one in there anyway): Think my approach is ok?
I'm writing up my experience, here's how I tightened everything (since I don't have a torque wrench and probably couldn't fit one in there anyway): Think my approach is ok?
I found it useful to take a marker and mark the 1/4 and 1/8 turns on my star sockets. Once finger tight, I chose to turn all the cylinder head studs 1/2 turn, and then 1/4 turn more. I didn't have a torque wrench (I'm not sure it would fit in there anyway), and I didn't want to over torque with the aluminum block.
Next, I hand threaded all the nuts, followed by slowly and gently ratcheting them all down until the first bit of resistance was detected. I tightened the cylinder nuts about 3/4 of a turn after I felt resistance, and tightened the EGR and exhaust nuts as firmly as possible with a wrench alone (EGR) and a wrench and pipe section extension (exhaust).
Next, I hand threaded all the nuts, followed by slowly and gently ratcheting them all down until the first bit of resistance was detected. I tightened the cylinder nuts about 3/4 of a turn after I felt resistance, and tightened the EGR and exhaust nuts as firmly as possible with a wrench alone (EGR) and a wrench and pipe section extension (exhaust).
Last edited by pendrag; 12-07-2010 at 02:03 PM.
03-25-2011, 12:05 PM
#119
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thought id post this pic... gonna look for a used mini header. this is on my 99 tacoma at 173,000 miles. the head is cracked and i think this might have been why the head cracked
so will the 2rz manifold work?
so will the 2rz manifold work?
Last edited by 99 sas runner; 03-25-2011 at 12:09 PM.
03-25-2011, 12:21 PM
#120
2RZ and 3RZ use the same manifolds. But the manifolds are JUNK.
Shoot me a PM or call me when you want to upgrade to the header conversion. No more cracked headers, no more burned valves, no more cracked heads
If you ever talk to someone fixing a head issue on a 2RZ/3RZ, they are always repairing Cyls 2 or 3.
Shoot me a PM or call me when you want to upgrade to the header conversion. No more cracked headers, no more burned valves, no more cracked heads
If you ever talk to someone fixing a head issue on a 2RZ/3RZ, they are always repairing Cyls 2 or 3.
