O2 sensor Code 21
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O2 sensor Code 21
Hi everyone,
Recently I had my transmission rebuilt. About a week after getting it back, the check engine light came on. Wire jumping pins E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port returned a code 21. I have done some reading and it seems that code 21 refers to a bad O2 sensor. So I took a look. This is what I saw:
Looks like the wires running to the O2 sensors must have melted on the exhaust pipe. I have a 1995 4Runner V6. If anyone has an automatic runner, could you take a look and see if your wiring is the same as mine.
Also when I am driving, my engine seems to "choke". I accelerate and there doesn't seem to be enough power and then it kicks in. Any info is appreciated.
Thanks,
YM
Recently I had my transmission rebuilt. About a week after getting it back, the check engine light came on. Wire jumping pins E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port returned a code 21. I have done some reading and it seems that code 21 refers to a bad O2 sensor. So I took a look. This is what I saw:
Looks like the wires running to the O2 sensors must have melted on the exhaust pipe. I have a 1995 4Runner V6. If anyone has an automatic runner, could you take a look and see if your wiring is the same as mine.
Also when I am driving, my engine seems to "choke". I accelerate and there doesn't seem to be enough power and then it kicks in. Any info is appreciated.
Thanks,
YM
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Originally Posted by YorkieMomma
Hi everyone,
Recently I had my transmission rebuilt. About a week after getting it back, the check engine light came on. Wire jumping pins E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port returned a code 21. I have done some reading and it seems that code 21 refers to a bad O2 sensor. So I took a look. This is what I saw:
Looks like the wires running to the O2 sensors must have melted on the exhaust pipe. I have a 1995 4Runner V6. If anyone has an automatic runner, could you take a look and see if your wiring is the same as mine.
Also when I am driving, my engine seems to "choke". I accelerate and there doesn't seem to be enough power and then it kicks in. Any info is appreciated.
Thanks,
YM
Recently I had my transmission rebuilt. About a week after getting it back, the check engine light came on. Wire jumping pins E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port returned a code 21. I have done some reading and it seems that code 21 refers to a bad O2 sensor. So I took a look. This is what I saw:
Looks like the wires running to the O2 sensors must have melted on the exhaust pipe. I have a 1995 4Runner V6. If anyone has an automatic runner, could you take a look and see if your wiring is the same as mine.
Also when I am driving, my engine seems to "choke". I accelerate and there doesn't seem to be enough power and then it kicks in. Any info is appreciated.
Thanks,
YM
I really doubt that that routing is correct, and very well could be the root of your problems, Chances are that the wires shorted together, it would be an easy fix, to reroute, and fix the damaged wire without buying a new O2 sensor.
Steve
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Ya that is what I thought when I looked at it. Just doesn't seem like it should even come in contact with the exhaust with it being as hot as it gets and all... doesn't seem to good for the wiring. In one part of it there is actually "tin foil" showing? Figured that wasn't a very good thing either. After we checked the code the check engine light left. But after I went grocery shopping on my way home it came back on again. Got any ideas how to fix it if it is the wiring and not the whole O2 sensor?
Thank you Steve for the help!!
YM
Thank you Steve for the help!!
YM
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Well the first thing you need to do is unplug the connector at the end of the wires,& get those poor wires of the exhaust,You wouldnt leave your finger on there while you go to the grocery store,so i dont think the wires like it much either.
The runner should run just fine with the O2 sensor unplugged untill you get around to fixing the wires.
If you dont feel upto fixing them yourself,just ask a friend who does or take it to the local auto electrician.
The runner should run just fine with the O2 sensor unplugged untill you get around to fixing the wires.
If you dont feel upto fixing them yourself,just ask a friend who does or take it to the local auto electrician.
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Originally Posted by YorkieMomma
Ya that is what I thought when I looked at it. Just doesn't seem like it should even come in contact with the exhaust with it being as hot as it gets and all... doesn't seem to good for the wiring. In one part of it there is actually "tin foil" showing? Figured that wasn't a very good thing either. After we checked the code the check engine light left. But after I went grocery shopping on my way home it came back on again. Got any ideas how to fix it if it is the wiring and not the whole O2 sensor?
Thank you Steve for the help!!
YM
Thank you Steve for the help!!
YM
You can just cut and splice in some new wiring around the damaged part of the existing wire using crimp terminals (available from most auto parts stores or Radio Shacks). I would suggest Soldering the connections then weatherproofing the joints with either electrical tape or preferably Shrink tubing (also available at most auto part stores and Radio Shacks). If you are really in a pinch, you can just replace the sheilding on the existing wiring (electrical tape) but that solution is not recommended...
If you can't find anyone local to fix it, i'll voulenteer to fix it for you, but you'd have to pay shipping both ways, and be down for a couple of days...
Steve
#7
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in my opinion it looks like the guys that installed your transmission did that, i would take it back to them the way it is and try to get them to fix it for free
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
in my opinion it looks like the guys that installed your transmission did that, i would take it back to them the way it is and try to get them to fix it for free
Someones on the ball today.
But the question is do you trust them to do the job properly after seeing this,id just arrange to send them the bill.
Last edited by Maddog; 10-03-2004 at 09:56 PM.
#9
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I had the same type of problem. Mine was where the wire loom was ty-wraped to the cross member, away from the pipe except when I had a very heavy load, melted all but the shielded signal wire. I re-routed and fixed all of the melted points, weather proofed everything and it works perfect.
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