FYI:

R-SAK = Pronounced "Our Sack!"

Below is a picture of the first prototype's that are now currently installed on the rear my 96 4Runner. They work as planned. YES!!!

NOTE: I can make more of the "Rear Spring Ajustability Kits" or R-SAK for anyone whom wants them for testing purposes. Price *for now* will be at a greatly discounted price because I want some people to test these and give me feedback.

NOTE: THESE KITS WERE DESIGNED TO INCLUDE THE FACTORY (post recall) INSIDE SPRING BUMP STOP. YOU MAY MODIFY THE BUMP STOP BUT MUST RETAIN THE PORTION THAT SITS BETWEEN THE FRAME AND ACTUAL SPRING. WITHOUT THIS THE SPRING WILL FIT LOOSLY ONTO THE R-SAK UNIT AND MAY RATTLE/SQUEAK ETC...

I can make these to your requested ajustment range. Many of you already have aftermarket springs so the gain desired from where you are now may require use of the shorted ones. Everones needs and current set-ups are different so I will not even attempt to include shocks in a kit form. At this time it will be totally on you to figure out your own shock requirments as well as lengthened brake line, prop valve adjustments, and bump stop height settings. If you need some assistance with this please do ask and give me as much info as possible so I can help you site unseen.

Prices:

R-SAK#1 $140 + $10 S&H (this will allow ajustability from 1.5" to 3.25")

R-SAK#2 $150 + $11 S&H (this will allow ajustability from 2.0" to 3.75")

R-SAK#3 $160 + $12 S&H (this will allow ajustability from 2.5" to 4.25")

If you want them quickly please make payment through my PayPal account using the e-mail address sacresqdiver2002@yahoo.com. Please make sure you give your desired "mail to" address when making the payment. I will have them shipped to you as soon as possible but no later than 10 days.

...otherwise email me and we can work out other arrangments...

Happy wheeling!
~protech03

 

These work well on 96 through 02 Toyota 4Runners. I will check out a 90 - 95 second generation to see if they will work. If they will not I will design a set for that application as well. Stay tuned!

~protect03

 

your picture doesn't work

 

http://www.geocities.com/sacresqdiver2002/RSAK3.jpg

R-SAK#3

 

I WENT TO THE SHOP AND PRODUCED AN EVEN BETTER DESIGN WHICH WILL KEEP THE SPRING STRAIGHTER AND ALLOW ABOUT ANOTHER 1/4" OF ADJUSTABITLITY. NOW A FULL 2" OF ADJUSTMENT!





http://www.geocities.com/sacresqdive...K3_revised.JPG


revised R-SAK#3


~protech03

 

What's the top material? It looks like plastic, and how does it adjust, because th latest rendition doesn't look like it has threads. I they do have threads, how easy is it to turn?

Chris

 

Hey guys!


The spacers are all steel and are cad plated to prevent rust. The first set I tested were not plated and I just painted black and the threads coated with Neverseize. Not a big deal for most since you can barely see them when they are installed. The plating is easier for me, they look great, and the threads work smoother making adjustments a bit easier. The newest design shown...the threads do not contact the spring as they screw into the top plate and stick out the top through the frame hole (depending on the adjustment you have them at) The ones on my Runner are at the lowest possible setting for now anyway...so the threaded part can be seen if you look between the frame and body. Only about 1/2" of threads are showing. It works awesome!


~protech

 

I bought a set of Bilstein 5100's today and installed my shock stud/eye conversion brackets and the much longer shocks. The colapsed length is a little longer (1") than what I hoped for since I will likely be jumping this Runner soon. (test jump used all but 1/2" of tavel) The extended length is all good at 24.5" which includes my brackets adding about 1.5".

The only real choices to improve the shock situation are to go with the 7100 series "Short body" 10' travel shock with 14.5" colapsed and 24.5" extended. With my brackets this would be 16" colapsed and 26" extended. That would be the best compromise with semi stock mounting. You would give up 2" of seldom if ever used compression while gaining about 6" of down travel.

*Please let me know what your experience has been for shock lengths.*

Thanks in advance!
~protech03

 

Here's a few for now.

Crappy camera and these are of the old style spacers and shock brackets on my 2WD Runner. This Runner used to look totally pathetic with it's sagged out, already very low 2WD suspension and worn 225/75R15's (26.5" tires) Now it sports late Tacoma Bilstiens w/TRD springs and 1" Protech spacers on front, Protech R-SAK#2's, new springs and Bilstein 5100's on the rear. Now the 265/70R16's (31" tires) on Tundra wheels look tiny. 285/70R16 BFG's are coming.

My "New" set up is simular to this, but looks better and heavier materials were used. Newer shock brackets are truly "Bomb-proof!" 1/4" steel and all 5/8" fine thread grade 8 hardware!

~Protech03

 

any thing new on how this set up is working out????????

 

I would like more pictures or information on your shock set up? Semi stock locations?

I have been thinking about cutting a bigger hole where the stock shocks mount and mount them higher above the frame with a custom shock mount. I have a 2in body lift so I know they will fit.

Thanks
Jason

 

Is there really any benefit of mounting the upper mount higher up 2". The shock that would be used would have to be at least 2" longer to have the same level of droop, and the compressed length would have to be two inches longer so it doesn't compress further. I would be interested in 1" less compression and 3-4" more droop, but finding a shock that could do that seems hard. What kinds of shocks are you guys planning to use?

Also, with more droop, how are you compensating on the gas tank/driveshaft, and control arm's issues?

Chris

 

With a Shock mounted higher you could run longer shocks hence more shaft hence more droop. But from what I herd that is Gas tank limited. Meaning that the drive shaft will hit the drive shaft. BUt I figure if I get the droop first then I will figure out the gas tank problem.

There is not allot of room for shocks under the 4runner. The only place I see that would still be effective shock location is where they are just higher.

Jason

 

I agree, and it would be possible to do for anyone with a body lift and without a body lift, abviously with more room for those with the body lift. Am I right in saying that let's say we move the upper mount up 2". This means the shock we get would need to have a 2" longer compressed length, and over 2" longer extended length to gain any droop at all, right?

Chris

 

I also was just thinking that if the angle of the shock changed the equation changes yet again.

Chris

 

Thats how it works.

 

Not if you mounted it in the same location. In general you don't want to go over 30-35* of angle on your shocks anything past that and you loose shock effective-ness.

Jason

 

Yeah, check out FearToy's 4runner, he got his suspension from Camburg. His rear shocks are at an angle and he gets alot of rear articulation, I forgot what he told me they did about the driveshaft/gastank issue if anything at all.

 

Yeah the more angle on the shock the stiffer the valving would need to be. Yeah, I need to check out fear toys rear suspension too.

Chris

 

how are these working out???????