NooB Confession - Low Oil now Engine Ticks
#1
NooB Confession - Low Oil now Engine Ticks
Good morning everyone,
I have a '94 4Runner w/ 3VZE engine (head gasket fix done by Toyota @ 60k miles, new short block)... now with 112k miles. I noticed last week that the oil pressure was low to non-existent. Checked oil and it wasn't even hitting the bottom of the dipstick :pat: Where did it go? No oil spots on the ground. No oil slicks on the side/underneath the vehicle. Coolant looked/smelled normal. It does not blow any smoke.
Now... A day or two before this my wife noticed a "ticking noise." I drove it with her and identified the tick she was hearing. To me it sounded like a valve/s. After the discovery of the low oil problem, I took it to my dealer for an oil/filter change. It was overdue for an oil change by about 2,000 miles... (Please don't lecture me, I have punished myself enough. ) Dealership changed oil, confirmed no oil leaks anywhere and filled 'er back up with 20w/50. I drover her home, no ticks, apparent oil pressure (according to the stock guage anyway) and running generally alot better.
Here's the kicker, and my question. Wife told me yesterday that the ticking is back. What do you folks here think could be the problem? Does it need a valve adjustment now, or did I burn a valve? Score a cam? I know it's hard to say without hearing it personally, I am just trying to determine what things I can look for and fix myself and if there are any more serious problems I need to consider.
Thanks in advance!
Bengoshi
I have a '94 4Runner w/ 3VZE engine (head gasket fix done by Toyota @ 60k miles, new short block)... now with 112k miles. I noticed last week that the oil pressure was low to non-existent. Checked oil and it wasn't even hitting the bottom of the dipstick :pat: Where did it go? No oil spots on the ground. No oil slicks on the side/underneath the vehicle. Coolant looked/smelled normal. It does not blow any smoke.
Now... A day or two before this my wife noticed a "ticking noise." I drove it with her and identified the tick she was hearing. To me it sounded like a valve/s. After the discovery of the low oil problem, I took it to my dealer for an oil/filter change. It was overdue for an oil change by about 2,000 miles... (Please don't lecture me, I have punished myself enough. ) Dealership changed oil, confirmed no oil leaks anywhere and filled 'er back up with 20w/50. I drover her home, no ticks, apparent oil pressure (according to the stock guage anyway) and running generally alot better.
Here's the kicker, and my question. Wife told me yesterday that the ticking is back. What do you folks here think could be the problem? Does it need a valve adjustment now, or did I burn a valve? Score a cam? I know it's hard to say without hearing it personally, I am just trying to determine what things I can look for and fix myself and if there are any more serious problems I need to consider.
Thanks in advance!
Bengoshi
#2
First question why 20w/50 the 3vze calls for 10w/30 in warm weather and 5/30 if its colder. That thicker oil might not be making it to the top of the engine.
And the oil change that you missed by 2000 miles was it supposed to be at 3k, 3750, or a 7500 mile oil change? Because a lot of time can pass in between oil changes...
If the only problem is the "tick" try switching to 5w/30.
because if the way I understand that multigrade oils work is that the first number is the viscosity with the engine cold and the second is with the engine at operating temp ie. "all warmed up." So unless you are in death valley or the saraha try the thinner oil.
Also if you have been running the thicker oil change it pretty quick because if you have been running the 20w/50 for a while you may have some crud built up so change a little more often.
Sorry for the ramble.... I haven't had my coffee yet and the whole spring foward crap!!!!!!!
And the oil change that you missed by 2000 miles was it supposed to be at 3k, 3750, or a 7500 mile oil change? Because a lot of time can pass in between oil changes...
If the only problem is the "tick" try switching to 5w/30.
because if the way I understand that multigrade oils work is that the first number is the viscosity with the engine cold and the second is with the engine at operating temp ie. "all warmed up." So unless you are in death valley or the saraha try the thinner oil.
Also if you have been running the thicker oil change it pretty quick because if you have been running the 20w/50 for a while you may have some crud built up so change a little more often.
Sorry for the ramble.... I haven't had my coffee yet and the whole spring foward crap!!!!!!!
#4
My oil change interval has typically been 3k to 3.5k miles and I have been using a 10w/30 (Valvoline Durablend). The Toyota dealership recommended the heavier oil since so much oil was missing/burned/whatever (that still has me stumped).
As for the fuel injectors... I hadn't thought of that... I'll get my trusty long screwdriver/stethescope and take a listen to them.
As for the fuel injectors... I hadn't thought of that... I'll get my trusty long screwdriver/stethescope and take a listen to them.
Last edited by Bengoshi; 04-07-2003 at 07:03 PM.
#5
Originally posted by Bengoshi
My oil change interval has typically been 3k to 3.5k miles and I have been using a 10w/30 (Valvoline Durablend). The Toyota dealership recommended the heavier oil since so much oil was missing/burned/whatever (that still has me stumped).
My oil change interval has typically been 3k to 3.5k miles and I have been using a 10w/30 (Valvoline Durablend). The Toyota dealership recommended the heavier oil since so much oil was missing/burned/whatever (that still has me stumped).
You sure there was no oil-drinking gremlin in your neighborhood?
I have a serious oil leak, same engine...but mine is very obvious (coming from somewhere above the tranny). Anyway, good luck.
Jim
#6
I know the dealership said to but that heavy of an oil would still be too thick to get to your lifters untill the rpms and oil pressure were up. 20w/50 is recomended for when the average temps are 80 to 100+ degrees.
Since it will be a while before it gets to July you might just want to go back to 10w/30 or even 5w/30 and check the oil every other day. If you were having constant problems with burning oil I would understand the Dealership putting in the heavy oil but since it might just be a one time thing it seems to be a little over kill. (it could be as complex as the dipstick wasn't all the way down letting the oil heat up and vent out.)
Try first using the screwdriver and stethescope when the engine is cold (like overnight). Your valves wont have much oil on them, they will make some noise for a few seconds before the oil gets to the top of the motor then they should quiet down and you will hear the quiter(sp?) tapping of the injectors.
PS If you only went to 5500 miles or so I wouldn't worry about the miles (unless you were towing). One choice if you are an easy driver is 7500 mile oil changes.
Since it will be a while before it gets to July you might just want to go back to 10w/30 or even 5w/30 and check the oil every other day. If you were having constant problems with burning oil I would understand the Dealership putting in the heavy oil but since it might just be a one time thing it seems to be a little over kill. (it could be as complex as the dipstick wasn't all the way down letting the oil heat up and vent out.)
Try first using the screwdriver and stethescope when the engine is cold (like overnight). Your valves wont have much oil on them, they will make some noise for a few seconds before the oil gets to the top of the motor then they should quiet down and you will hear the quiter(sp?) tapping of the injectors.
PS If you only went to 5500 miles or so I wouldn't worry about the miles (unless you were towing). One choice if you are an easy driver is 7500 mile oil changes.
#7
I sure wish the damn weather would make up its mind here. One day the average temp is 85, 2 days later its 50, 2 days later its 70, now it's going to be back around 85-90....
I have my summer 20w50 in now (that's changed every 3k....) but the temp thing is annoying here. Gainesville, FL the armpit of the south....lol
I have an isolated ticking that appears to only come from the passenger side rear most cylinder. The sound is coming from under the huge silver intake manifold were the injectors are. It's about the same frequency of ticking as the firing of clyinder #1 when you use a timing light. Could the injector be bad or something? Or a valve? Im a rank noob at diagnosing sounds of engines.....
Steve
I have my summer 20w50 in now (that's changed every 3k....) but the temp thing is annoying here. Gainesville, FL the armpit of the south....lol
I have an isolated ticking that appears to only come from the passenger side rear most cylinder. The sound is coming from under the huge silver intake manifold were the injectors are. It's about the same frequency of ticking as the firing of clyinder #1 when you use a timing light. Could the injector be bad or something? Or a valve? Im a rank noob at diagnosing sounds of engines.....
Steve
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-07-2003 at 09:46 PM.
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