You're on the right track for sure.....

Few items to check for ya:

• FPR - double check fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge
• Run a seperate ground and feed wire from the MAF to the ECU
• Double check you don't have any dirty, broken or missing ground straps on the engine

 

What Jamie and i said Do it

run a completely separate line to the maf to your ecu to verify there is no problems.

 

Check your fuel pressure regulator. I have seen these symptoms from that component going bad all by its self. Make sure that is working, or all this work and wrench time will be for nothing. If the compression is bad check that all the valves are sealing off, then go from there.

 

So whats the word Mark, you still alive? Is the truck still intact?

 

No change...

Jamie's idea is a good one, as is the new idea from YD about the FPR. I haven't been able to try either one yet.

I had been "running" on a borrowed ICM*, which blew out a couple of months ago. The loaner needed it back when he put the donor engine up for sale, so at the moment I can't even start the truck. It's just sitting in the driveway dripping 3 different fluids from 3 different spots.

A new ICM is about $400 from Shucks, I haven't checked dealer prices and I can't find it listed at any of the online sites.


*: "ICM" is "Ignition Control Module" which is what I've been told the 3"x2"x1/2" flat box is called that's on the passenger fender which feeds the coil packs.

 

dont check dealer prices Only choice is to find a used one thats what I had to do on several occasions...

 

Hey Midiwall sorry to hear about all these problems. trust me im going throught the same feelings myself. the gun sounds nice sometimes same with my fist. I finaly got my 3.4 in my 94 4runner after way to long. i had to buy a new engine harness casue the previous owner cut it like an idiot then tells me its a 98 he thought well after doing checks on the sensor #s i found it was a T100 but it had to of been either a 96 or 97 nothing newer. well i bought a 96 2wd ECU and engine harness to match.

Anyway... I wired it all up myself and got it running. i came back the next morning tried to fire and i would not. so i coulnt figure it out. turns out i mismatched the plugs like an idiot. i flooded the motor real good and had to drain my brand new moble1 oil, pull all plugs, clean them, air out the cylinders, install all over again, charged the battery and it fired right up.

Sounds good yes however i had no oil pressure readings, also a coolant leak out of the hardest to get to freeze plug. just great i had installed a oil filter relocation kit and i ran a mechanical guage right before it to see if its getting pressure. i get pressure when i crank the motor so that should be good enough to know for sure i hope. i still dont know why i dont get oil readings nor oil spewing out from were the sensor goes this pisses me off a bit. since this i fired the truck up a few times but it instantly dies aspecialy if i gave it any gas. its running real rich reeks like gas. I pull the plugs again and yup flooded. i dont know whats going on or what to check next. so im in the same boat if you could say the least.

I hope you get your truck running well again, i just hope i can get mine driving again its been waaaaaaaaaay to long

 

Sorry to hear that man. Hope you get it going soon.

Im kinda still having an issue with mine aswell. Im only getting like 13 to 14mpg tops with having this fuel kit. And i still have not installed the 2.2 pulley yet. I have no clue whats going on with mine.... My afr's are right on. Only thing i can think is causing this is the timing. but i have been staying in the pressure side on a few tanks just to test things out.

 

SteveO - is the 13-14 mpg adjusted for your larger tire size? If not, I was getting about the same with my S/C and fuel mods.

 

No its not, i have just been taking the milage of what the odometer says.

I was doing the same when i didnt have the fuel upgrade kit. I was averaging 17-19 mpg, depending on if i was towing a trailer and bike. And this was before the fuel kit.

Now im only getting 13 maybe 14 (if im lucky) mpg with this kit.

I have replaced my o2 sensor already when i was having the issues the first time around. and the MAF is clean. plugs and wires are new, from the install of the kit. Should i run bigger spark plug wires with these plugs? Im still currently using the stock ones from the stealership.

Maybe i have a messed up cat???? I dunno, im lost and kinda upset about this ordeal. Even though my truck is running. its still not top notch.

Can timing cause such a dramatic loss in fuel milage???

 

So......

After Installation of the 2.2 pulley I only get a max of 7 psi boost. Unless im getting on the free way almost red-lining in 3rd gear I can get 7.5 psi...

No clue on to whats the deal, I may think its the style of s/c I have. The grey first gen one. Or its my intake tube collapsing.

Air filter is clean. And i cant see the intake tube while im driving obviously. The pulley is installed correctly and not touching the housing when running.

Any i ideas folks?

Also Blink and I spent a good 3 hours tuning my truck on friday night. So im good to go so far. Going to the dunes this weekend and im towing a golfcart and quad. So it was definetly needed. So well see what kind of milage i get doing so.

 

Check the vacuum line going to the bypass valve on the drivers side rear of the S/C. My GF's tacoma had a crack in that line and would not create full boost.

 

I will look again, but all the lines on the S/C are brand new.

 

First thing that popped into my head was an issue with the bypass valve too so Greedy's comment would make sense.

 

Well, i didnt mention this though. The stock pulley is 6psi... Thats what it was pushing with the stock one on there. Would even hit around 6.5 on nice days.

And the bypass vavle is brand new aswell. Just had the s/c rebuilt a few months ago. So im guess total milage on it now is 1.5k - 2.5k

 

Well if that's what you're getting off the stock pulley then the 2.2 should be about what you're seeing (about 7 psi). You can go to a 2" pulley, but you'll fast be in the land of diminishing returns due to the air heating up too much (esp in PHX). You'd need to combine that with an aquamist system to make more useable power from that supercharger. If you've just had it rebuilt then I think you're about at the limits you're going to get from it in that form. I don't know if the 2nd gens are any more efficient (ie if they make more psi at the same RPM), maybe someone else could comment on that.

 

The 2.2 pulley is a 8.5 - 9.5 psi pulley. But as i said im going to check the lines again for leaks and or cracks. As for the differences in the s/c models, i have the slightest clue.

Blink and his buddy both have them, and are getting the full 9.5 with the 2nd gen. Well that is until blink sold his s/c kit off his taco after his brother rolled it.

 

Steve, the only thing that pulley does for you is change the mechanical advantage on the ratio itself. So if the stock pulley was 2.5" and the new one is 2.2" then you should see about 14% difference in the psi created with the new pulley (because it is now spinning faster). So if you're making about 6 psi with your old setup then the new one should make about 6 x 1.14 or about 6.8 psi. You gotta compare apples to apples here so make sure you're looking at numbers from other people that have 1st gen S/C not 2nd gens because there may be some internal design changes which make the 2nd gen more efficient (I honestly don't know myself).

 

Actually the M90 Eaton S/C (aka TRD 1st gen) has an internal (in the nose cone) gear ratio increase of 1.4:1 a which leads to the reason why a mere 16% decrease in pulley size/increase in supercharger rpm delivers a 50% increase in boost pressure from 6psi to 9psi.

I have the same setup at 9-9.5psi sounds right on the money for a 2.2" pulley.