No power, running rich (3.4L)
fair 'nuff. I'll get with D and figure out his schedule to pull the front of the motor off.
08-17-2007 | 08:59 AM
#82
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
Running with a piggyback will never yield perfect results in closed loop...mine did that as well at times and what i noticed happening is that the ecu jumps into open loop for a split second then drops back into closed and the ecu struggles to keep things in check. Its just the nature of piggybacks....i gotta get testing this smt7 which completly eliminates the stock ecu's control over closed loop 
08-17-2007 | 11:25 AM
#83
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 2
From: Seattleish, WA
Regardless of the advertised claims, I'd suspect that your ECU is creeping and fighting the piggyback.
Check this...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/g...mething-77040/
To test the theory, reset the ECU (pull the EFI fuse for a bit) and see if life goes back to how you knew it.
Check this...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/g...mething-77040/
To test the theory, reset the ECU (pull the EFI fuse for a bit) and see if life goes back to how you knew it.
08-17-2007 | 11:28 AM
#84
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 2
From: Seattleish, WA
no new news. I haven't pulled the top cover to check the timing. I DID get a new radiator, but I haven't put it in.I've been working on that Other Project - still waiting for my fly swatter btw.
Last edited by midiwall; 08-17-2007 at 03:58 PM.
08-17-2007 | 12:18 PM
#85
Contributing Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 0
From: Morgan Hill, Ca
no new news. I haven't pull the top cover to check the timing. I DID get a new radiator, but I haven't put it in.I've been working on that Other Project - still waiting for my fly swatter btw.
Fedex may still be puzzling over: Mark
123 Big Easy
Seattleish, WA
Is that not right?
08-17-2007 | 12:18 PM
#86
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Regardless of the advertised claims, I'd suspect that your ECU is creeping and fighting the piggyback.
Check this...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/g...mething-77040/
To test the theory, reset the ECU (pull the EFI fuse for a bit) and see if life goes back to how you knew it.
Check this...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/g...mething-77040/
To test the theory, reset the ECU (pull the EFI fuse for a bit) and see if life goes back to how you knew it.
08-17-2007 | 04:00 PM
#87
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 2
From: Seattleish, WA
SteveO... FINGERS CROSSED! (well, at least in the sense that we find out what the problem is... not that it's one that can be easily dealt with)
08-19-2007 | 06:53 AM
#88
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Yeah Midiwall. Your theory is correct atleast from when i tested it. i reset my computer that day at work. And well the AFR's went back to where i set them too. Doesnt make sense at all. And this is just going to be a huge PITA to reset the damn computer every 1000 miles... I just think thats a bit ridiculous.
Okay so now thats done and over with. Something strange occured. I played with my timing a bit on saturday right.... I forgot my check at work on Friday so I figured id test the tune out heading to pick up my check. All was great. noticed a bit more power under boost. Cashed my check then went home. Few hours later i had to move my truck for my bro. Well there it acted like the battery was dead. Tried cranking it again and it fired up.... well for the moment anyways. Then died. Tried again but gave it some gas. It would stay running if i kept it above 2k rpm. But it was sputtering real bad almost like lack of fuel. Well turned on the lm-1 and connected teh br3. Both checked out fine, I could not get it to throw a code or anything. Put my replaced my changes for the original ones pulled the EFI fuse for about 10 minutes then it fired right back up and stayed running.
I dont think it was the tuning that messied it up either.
Am I able to tune the timing in pressure?? I have a ping about 5 vacume. I need to get rid of that. Sounds like crap.
Does the SMT have symptoms like this???
Ohh and just another side rant. The place where i take my truck to have major repairs burnt down last week
All the garages were destroyed well, everything was just scorched. That could have been my truck in there if i would have pushed myself into having my clutch put on. Good thing i hesitated to have it put on.
Okay so now thats done and over with. Something strange occured. I played with my timing a bit on saturday right.... I forgot my check at work on Friday so I figured id test the tune out heading to pick up my check. All was great. noticed a bit more power under boost. Cashed my check then went home. Few hours later i had to move my truck for my bro. Well there it acted like the battery was dead. Tried cranking it again and it fired up.... well for the moment anyways. Then died. Tried again but gave it some gas. It would stay running if i kept it above 2k rpm. But it was sputtering real bad almost like lack of fuel. Well turned on the lm-1 and connected teh br3. Both checked out fine, I could not get it to throw a code or anything. Put my replaced my changes for the original ones pulled the EFI fuse for about 10 minutes then it fired right back up and stayed running.
I dont think it was the tuning that messied it up either. Am I able to tune the timing in pressure?? I have a ping about 5 vacume. I need to get rid of that. Sounds like crap.
Does the SMT have symptoms like this???
Ohh and just another side rant. The place where i take my truck to have major repairs burnt down last week
All the garages were destroyed well, everything was just scorched. That could have been my truck in there if i would have pushed myself into having my clutch put on. Good thing i hesitated to have it put on.
08-19-2007 | 08:00 AM
#89
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma State
My timing map starts retarding about 14 in-vac because my pinging started about 10 in-vac and I needed to smooth it out from there. The original u-tune guide mentions (very briefly) retarding in the preboost areas may be needed if you are running with water injection (which I am), something about the extra knock suppression at higher rpms and the ECU takes that info and extrapolates timing valves into the lower rpms.
Last edited by mt_goat; 08-19-2007 at 08:01 AM.
08-19-2007 | 08:23 AM
#90
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
I dont have the water injection though. So with that said, retarding the timing in 5 vacume sounds about normal then? Would i have to set the overpressure to that or does the overpressure only control when to activate the fuel map side?
08-19-2007 | 10:08 AM
#91
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma State
I'm not sure about the over pressure stuff, I think that's just for the E models (which I don't have), sorry.
09-07-2007 | 07:29 AM
#93
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 2
From: Seattleish, WA
Never a PITA Richard, thanks for worryin' though.No progress on the truck. I haven't touched it in weeks, and frankly, it feels good not to have the pressure.
I have a new radiator for it, it may go in this weekend, but I'm still on the lookout for an ECU. If I can find one to just try to see if that's the problem, I'll buy one at outrageous prices from NIX or a similar junkyard.
Past that, I've been swamped at work... If you happened to notice the joint Starbucks/Apple announcement in the midst of all the Apple iPhone/iPod/iTouch hoopla on Wednesday, I wrote the music server code on the Starbucks side.
09-07-2007 | 07:46 AM
#94
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 2
From: Seattleish, WA
{wow... I've really been MIA huh?}
Actually, it's just proof of Yet Another BS marketing claim by the piggyback folks.
The ECU is designed to run the engine at 14.7:1. Period. We can do all we want on the outside, but that dern thing is just gonna fight us all the way. The O2 faker-outer that SplitSecond sells (and that guy on the West/East coast) is bunk. It doesn't work. He'll stand up and tell you that he's got a list of customers that say it's the greatest thing, and then ignore me when I point to people like you, Weasy, Gregg and myself that have them sitting in a burn pile in the back yard. FWIW, this is the same circuit that's the "e" in the FTC1e.
No matter...
For the purposes of this discussion, I actually ended up installing a reset switch in the center console. It's a momentary push button that I just got in the habit of hitting every time I got into the truck. It's a power disconnect, so I just hold it down for a couple of seconds each time before I start the truck. Works great.
A more high-tech solution would be to simply drop a relay in the ECU power line and trigger it from the ACC line. That way, the power will be cut to the ECU every time you kill the ignition. Instant automatic ECU reset. If you try this, make sure that the ACC line you choose is the one that drives the starter solenoid. There's one from the ignition switch that drops power when you turn to START. (e.g., note that your radio turns off when you start the truck)
Hmmm... the "feels like a dead battery" sounds like starter contacts. Mine would do that quite often, but it went away after replacing the contacts during the rebuild.
The barely running and such... Sounds like FTC may have gotten a bit scrambled, but it wouldn't have fixed itself with an ECU reset. Did you pull out the laptop and look at the maps?
The SMT-5 has an issue with low voltage. If the battery voltage falls below 9v, it'll scramble up pretty well. The SMT-6 and -7 do NOT have this problem.
I wonder if the FTC is reacting similarly?
Yeah Midiwall. Your theory is correct atleast from when i tested it. i reset my computer that day at work. And well the AFR's went back to where i set them too. Doesnt make sense at all. And this is just going to be a huge PITA to reset the damn computer every 1000 miles... I just think thats a bit ridiculous.
The ECU is designed to run the engine at 14.7:1. Period. We can do all we want on the outside, but that dern thing is just gonna fight us all the way. The O2 faker-outer that SplitSecond sells (and that guy on the West/East coast) is bunk. It doesn't work. He'll stand up and tell you that he's got a list of customers that say it's the greatest thing, and then ignore me when I point to people like you, Weasy, Gregg and myself that have them sitting in a burn pile in the back yard. FWIW, this is the same circuit that's the "e" in the FTC1e.
No matter...
For the purposes of this discussion, I actually ended up installing a reset switch in the center console. It's a momentary push button that I just got in the habit of hitting every time I got into the truck. It's a power disconnect, so I just hold it down for a couple of seconds each time before I start the truck. Works great.
A more high-tech solution would be to simply drop a relay in the ECU power line and trigger it from the ACC line. That way, the power will be cut to the ECU every time you kill the ignition. Instant automatic ECU reset. If you try this, make sure that the ACC line you choose is the one that drives the starter solenoid. There's one from the ignition switch that drops power when you turn to START. (e.g., note that your radio turns off when you start the truck)
Well there it acted like the battery was dead. Tried cranking it again and it fired up.... well for the moment anyways. Then died. Tried again but gave it some gas. It would stay running if i kept it above 2k rpm. But it was sputtering real bad almost like lack of fuel. Well turned on the lm-1 and connected teh br3. Both checked out fine, I could not get it to throw a code or anything. Put my replaced my changes for the original ones pulled the EFI fuse for about 10 minutes then it fired right back up and stayed running. I dont think it was the tuning that messied it up either.
I dont think it was the tuning that messied it up either.
The barely running and such... Sounds like FTC may have gotten a bit scrambled, but it wouldn't have fixed itself with an ECU reset. Did you pull out the laptop and look at the maps?
Does the SMT have symptoms like this???
I wonder if the FTC is reacting similarly?
09-07-2007 | 09:59 AM
#95
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
^ couldnt agree with you more Mark!
Mine sits outside in a box of other crap....
I currently have 2 smt6's wired up in my tacoma and i can fairly say i got full control over the ecu now I am able to lean out the mixture to 15.5:1 on highway cruse and see my MPG go up to nearly 19-20 on highway when i used to see only 15-16 and this is with a basic tune. I can go rich if i want as well. I am counting the days left for the 5vz in this truck as i am working on getting a 1uz for when my insurance runs out in November at which point the swap will happen. Between now and then i hope to run a smt7 to see if i can get the full wideband option work and remove that MAF
Mine sits outside in a box of other crap....
I currently have 2 smt6's wired up in my tacoma and i can fairly say i got full control over the ecu now
I am able to lean out the mixture to 15.5:1 on highway cruse and see my MPG go up to nearly 19-20 on highway when i used to see only 15-16 and this is with a basic tune. I can go rich if i want as well. I am counting the days left for the 5vz in this truck as i am working on getting a 1uz for when my insurance runs out in November at which point the swap will happen. Between now and then i hope to run a smt7 to see if i can get the full wideband option work and remove that MAF
09-12-2007 | 09:28 AM
#97
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
{wow... I've really been MIA huh?}
Actually, it's just proof of Yet Another BS marketing claim by the piggyback folks.
The ECU is designed to run the engine at 14.7:1. Period. We can do all we want on the outside, but that dern thing is just gonna fight us all the way. The O2 faker-outer that SplitSecond sells (and that guy on the West/East coast) is bunk. It doesn't work. He'll stand up and tell you that he's got a list of customers that say it's the greatest thing, and then ignore me when I point to people like you, Weasy, Gregg and myself that have them sitting in a burn pile in the back yard. FWIW, this is the same circuit that's the "e" in the FTC1e.
No matter...
For the purposes of this discussion, I actually ended up installing a reset switch in the center console. It's a momentary push button that I just got in the habit of hitting every time I got into the truck. It's a power disconnect, so I just hold it down for a couple of seconds each time before I start the truck. Works great.
A more high-tech solution would be to simply drop a relay in the ECU power line and trigger it from the ACC line. That way, the power will be cut to the ECU every time you kill the ignition. Instant automatic ECU reset. If you try this, make sure that the ACC line you choose is the one that drives the starter solenoid. There's one from the ignition switch that drops power when you turn to START. (e.g., note that your radio turns off when you start the truck)
Hmmm... the "feels like a dead battery" sounds like starter contacts. Mine would do that quite often, but it went away after replacing the contacts during the rebuild.
The barely running and such... Sounds like FTC may have gotten a bit scrambled, but it wouldn't have fixed itself with an ECU reset. Did you pull out the laptop and look at the maps?
The SMT-5 has an issue with low voltage. If the battery voltage falls below 9v, it'll scramble up pretty well. The SMT-6 and -7 do NOT have this problem.
I wonder if the FTC is reacting similarly?
Actually, it's just proof of Yet Another BS marketing claim by the piggyback folks.
The ECU is designed to run the engine at 14.7:1. Period. We can do all we want on the outside, but that dern thing is just gonna fight us all the way. The O2 faker-outer that SplitSecond sells (and that guy on the West/East coast) is bunk. It doesn't work. He'll stand up and tell you that he's got a list of customers that say it's the greatest thing, and then ignore me when I point to people like you, Weasy, Gregg and myself that have them sitting in a burn pile in the back yard. FWIW, this is the same circuit that's the "e" in the FTC1e.
No matter...
For the purposes of this discussion, I actually ended up installing a reset switch in the center console. It's a momentary push button that I just got in the habit of hitting every time I got into the truck. It's a power disconnect, so I just hold it down for a couple of seconds each time before I start the truck. Works great.
A more high-tech solution would be to simply drop a relay in the ECU power line and trigger it from the ACC line. That way, the power will be cut to the ECU every time you kill the ignition. Instant automatic ECU reset. If you try this, make sure that the ACC line you choose is the one that drives the starter solenoid. There's one from the ignition switch that drops power when you turn to START. (e.g., note that your radio turns off when you start the truck)
Hmmm... the "feels like a dead battery" sounds like starter contacts. Mine would do that quite often, but it went away after replacing the contacts during the rebuild.
The barely running and such... Sounds like FTC may have gotten a bit scrambled, but it wouldn't have fixed itself with an ECU reset. Did you pull out the laptop and look at the maps?
The SMT-5 has an issue with low voltage. If the battery voltage falls below 9v, it'll scramble up pretty well. The SMT-6 and -7 do NOT have this problem.
I wonder if the FTC is reacting similarly?
As for connecting up my laptop, yeah i did, looked at the maps and didnt notice anything out of place. But i put my old map back in there, and reset reset the ecu and at started right up and has ran fine ever since.
The only thing that i did with the other map was make some timing changes. Because i noticed im getting some ping at 5 - 0 in vacume. So i made some timing adjustments in there and drove about 50 or so miles on it like that, came home and parked it. 3 hours later its starts to wigg out like i said. Just one of those days i guess.
09-12-2007 | 11:28 AM
#100
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
