Looks like my truck is getting the best of me.... And no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with it. I dont understand it at all...

Midrange boost in closed loop the afr's are very inconsistant. running anywhere from 15 afr - 18.5 afr. I mean you can feel when the afrs go that high. huge power loss, and well, pinging. But when i WOT to hit open loop i get a steady 12 afr - 12.5 afr... I just dont understand it.

This is how i feel:



And this is what i want to do to my Runner:

 

Steve, the FTC1 is still hooked up, right? What do your fuel and timing maps look like? Can you post a screen shot?

 

im still curious of his fuel pressure...other then the ftc the only other real thing that could affect the afr is fuel pressure...

 

oh wait...never mind i thought you were having issues up high as well with afr...

do you have a obd scanner? what are the timing figures when you are pinging?

 

Ill try to take it out for a spin today and get you guys some numbers on the timing when it hits the high afrs like that.

And ill get a screen shot of the fuel/timing maps tonight.

If i can get ahold of gadget today aswell im going to see if hell send me his fuel maps too. He aswell has a 96 runner.

Yes i know every truck is different. but it will be damn close.

 

im more concerned as to why you are getting detonation when your afr is at 12:1

 

Ohh no no no, When it gets into open loop and the afrs are running 12 - 12.5 there is no pinging, so i can technically drive the truck safely if i dont go into any boost. but i can slam the throttle for WOT open loop. its only the midrange i get the pinging and thats due to massive lack of fuel.

 

Mark,
I really think you should check the physical cam timing (timing belt jumped or slipped). An ill timed cam can cause almost all of your symptoms. Late valve opening can greatly increase intake vacuum which would account for the air flow increase when the throttle shutter opens. Since the cam sensor times the injectors they are dumping at the wrong time in the stroke also, thus incomplete burns. This is really the only logical reason (short of catastrophic failure) to explain the 120 compression.
A crank pulley slip is not out of the question either but that would seem to show up with the timing light. But even that may have slipped the signal sprocket as well. Only a physical TDC check if the #1 piston will tell for sure.
Before I'd spend much more time looking for electrical gremlins I would make certain of the physical 'lawnmower' basics.
If it's not the cam timing then at least I can stop yelling at the screen each time I check this thread for the latest.

 

I keep visualizing the case of the widened crank key slot someone has a thread on. But I know Mark is well aware of that.

 

^ if that doesnt work....ecu...

I dunno i still lean to ecu vs mechanical...but very good point randy

 

fair 'nuff. I'll get with D and figure out his schedule to pull the front of the motor off.

 

i wonder if my 96 taco ecu would work?

 

Well, before you do anything silly like drive down here, or pull it and ship it down here, PLEASE check the numbers. Mine's labeled: 89661-3D150 / 175000-8391

From what I found with the '97, that was a harness change (all the connectors fit, but the wire positions changed within them). Past that though, it "should" have worked.


If you're serious about letting me give it a shot Johnny, let's talk about logistics. I could easily turn it around in a day but you'll have to convince me that you're not gonna be without a drivable vehicle while I give it a shot.

thank you...

 

Well you see....my tacoma is getting new spark plugs, then im going to use it as my daily driver to do things like pick up a 1uz and other parts thats going to be replaced...in sept the whole project begins and the taco will be 5vz'less...so these are the options:

1) Me check part numbers and/or fire over the ecu, you test it and if it works you can either look for a taco or 4runner ecu OR wait till im starting my 1uz swap at which point ill give you a smokin deal on the ecu

2) I MAY be driving down to Lynnwood to pickup the engine i dunno how close to you that is as i may be able to make a detour and test it out on the spot. I dunno if i will be driving the taco down (dont trust it at moment for long hauls) or 4runner and trailer...either way we can test it out.

The sooner i get my 1uz stuff and finish a couple of the long term projects i have in this garage (5vz mr2 swaps) the sooner the tacoma goes under the knife...

as for downtime regarding option one (shipping ecu over)...its no big deal i have my dads 4runner i can borrow...plus i work in the garage fulltime here now so its not like i need to commute

 

Cool on moving to full time Johnny!

Lemme know how the part numbers work out, and what you're thinking in timeline to drive down. You have email (tot he j@s2s.com address) with more details.

 

Good news from me finally

I got my truck running this weekend. So heres how it goes.

When we initially tuned the truck the base tune that came with the FTC was running lean. We started lowering the #'s on the fuel maps. Which started richening it. All made sense. Until a week later it started running extremely lean. after a new FTC and a couple hundred more $ in extra uneeded parts it was doing the same thing. I had asked Gadget to send me his fuel maps. When i recieved them they looked totaly different then mine. Which then threw me re reading the U-Tune Guide. Get down to the fuel map portion of it and it states there 10 is neutral, lowering the #'s leans it, and upping it is richening it. Which doesnt make sense when we initially tuned it, lowering the #'s was richening the AFR's. But right now in low boost i have the afr's sitting at 12.0:1 AFR. And in mid-full boost i have is sitting at about 11.0-11.5:1 AFR. And it only took me 3 months to figure out this simple problem. Dont i feel like and idiot.

 

^ OH CRAP i totally forgot that you have to decrease numbers to add fuel haha totally forgot its a 5 - 0v system!

Damn and i was killing myself thinking as to what the hell could be wrong with your setup. Good work!

 

Ummm... read it again Johnny. He THOUGHT that a smaller number was making it run richer, but it wasn't. What Steve may have been seeing is the ECU fighting to compensate for the leaner running in closed loop by stuffing more fuel. Eventually though that'll flatten out and the FTC1e should win (with the conditioner in line) and he'll end up lean. Dunno for sure.

The FTC works like the SMT in that those numbers are adjusting the pulse width of the injector being open. A larger number means a longer pulse width which is more open time which gives more fuel.

 

man im on crack....or lack of sleep hah yea we all have that ecu problem to deal with...

 

Well, now im running into a new problem. Everything was good up into about a day ago. AFR's looks good in boost. But now when im in vacume its sits right on 14.7 afr @ idle. Then i accelerate in the vacume side my afr's go all the way up to 16 afr, it will eventually stableize back to 14.7.

To make it a lil less confusing: Say im driving in 4th gear and the vacume is sitting at about 17 on the boost gauge. Then i lightly press the pedal down to make the boost gauge show 10 vacume. My afrs will go to about 12 when i do this. Then SLOWLY steady back out to 14.7

To me that seems as if the ftc is staying stuck in open loop proceedure. activating the entire fuel map??? What do you guys think??

Edit:
Ohh and i forgot to add, this has happened 2 times so for, both ive pulled off to the side of the road. Say im driving again in 4th with about 16 vacume on the boost gauge, I felt a sudden drop in power. Take a look at the LM-1 unit and it shows 18 - 19 afr. Now this will wig out for only a minute. man, im not liking this tuning stuff at all, its just one giant headache.

So now im stumped once again