Yes I know that is technically how they are to be checked but the fact is NO ONE does that. Even professional shops don't do that.

Never in my life have I seen someone do that be it a shop, or garage.

Why? Because it is a royal pain, takes special tools and is very hard to setup and know if you are actually seeing the correct readings.

Your argument while technically true is also just silly. I bet we could count the number of people that have done that on this board on one hand.

 

Thas is the prescribed inspection procedure. It's right in the service manual, released by Toyota, specifically for this vehicle.

There is a very good reason why they release all these wear figures and torque figures. Because that is the proper way to do things. If someone doesn't like reading manuals for complex machinery, they almost always end up in trouble.

I have done this procedure properly and I know my wear figures. I know for a fact that they don't need to be replaced even though I have over 100k. A dial gauge is not a special tool. It is a standard tool that should be in any professional mechanic's toolbox.

 

It doesn't matter what is in the manual, My point stands. NEVER, not 1 single solitary time, have I seen someone use a dial gauge on suspension components.

I have seen them test it via my method COUNTLESS times though. You jack it up and then yank and pull it in every direction to feel for play.

I said before that your way is technically correct but if no one uses it then it doesn't matter.

Personally before I took the time to setup a dial gauge on a suspension component I would just replace everything weather they are good or bad. Which is exactly what I did in the first place before I realized that using an off brand ball joint on these is a bad idea.

 

And back to the original point - many aftermarket ball joints aren't failing because of premature wear that could be prevented by hooking a dial gauge up and measuring slack every 10K miles, some of them just simply broke. The ball pops out of the cup because the cup isn't sufficiently strong. Or the ball breaks off. No amount of measuring is going to catch that. I thin the peace of mind that comes with the OEM ball joints is that they'll likely make it to a 'worn out' stage without an unexpected failure well before you would expect one.

Or there are potential installation errors, the nut breaks off, the 4 smaller bolts holding the ball joint on either break or work loose. When the nut breaks off, it's possible it was over torqued, but also possible it was torqued properly but the ball joint shaft had improper mettalurgy.

 

I wouldn't call Moog an off brand joint, they're very highly regarded, as is their sister company National. Is that actually what you used or was it something like Parts Master?

In any of my older trucks I wouldn't have a problem using something like Moog or even Raybestos, but given the BJ setup in the '99's generation OEM is probably worth it, especially since Moog is usually about the same price.

Also: Why $1000?? Ouch!

 

Wow! You should not be giving advice to anyone. It is downright dangerous.

 

DailyDrive, for my own education can you post a link to this procedure? Thanks.

I have to wonder if the specified spec you mention is so small to be nearly meaningless as a indicator of reliability i.e. the margin of error is so small that it could test good and a tiny subsequent deviation means a major failure.

 

Wow my new Ball joints have failed before the truck is off the jack stands.

Maybe I need a more sensitive electronic certified and calibrated indicator to recheck these .

Did I get a bad set of ball joints from the dealer ??

Have they gone cheap to save money after all there recalls??

 

I put Raybestos Pro grades on mine which are actually rebranded 555s. I'm not worried about them failing.

 

I agree nothing but Toyota parts for my runner!!!!!
just did uppers and lowers and inner/outer tie rods yesterday even though my truck went down the road perfect.
upon removing old parts my buddy kept saying" those parts arent even worn, dont replace them", I was replacing them because they are all original parts and my runner has around 350,000 miles on it.... lucky? I think not, Toyota parts are amazing, I'm still on original everything else as well except 1 coilpack,1 o2 sensor,over the yaers, man how long do these alternators and starters etc last???? stay tuned .I'll let you know (maybe some day)....btw everything still works, power windows etc fully loaded Limited pkg.

one last note, I live in high road salt usage MN, let me say the it was fun with all the rusted bolts.... thank God for oxy acetylene torches, had to heat up a bunch of bolts to get them loose, but none snapped.

 

Sure, here is a link to the picture from the Toyota service manual.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...up-thread.html

0.02" is not a small figure at all. The ball joint is a precision part. No different from any internal engine part. Or ball bearings. Measuring play in the LBJ is no different than measuring axle runout, which seems to be a common cause for rear axle seals failing.

Eyeballing LBJ wear is exactly the same as eyeballing axle runout.

 

I ordered Toyota upper and lower ball joints, and their associated parts from Toyotapartszone.com at the beginning of this month for $325+, just waiting for them. I've used aftermarket parts on my '89 but I used OEM t-chain and components (22re). I did use an Azone chain and had to redo the job after 75K and went back to OEM. I used OEM belt, pulleys and h2o pump on my wife's Tacoma (3.4).