I installed one side and left the other the 4Runner coils with the spacers.

1. The coil alone, even with my tiny little 4cly engine gave me 1.5" of lift. So to say that the engines weight difference matters at all is completely wrong.

2. I used the Daystar studs which are 5cm long and I cut them down to 3.5cm long. Revteks are 3.5cn long.

3. I had to install the Revtek top out to get 2" of lift, even with my light little engine, just go to show you it's really not all that light.

4. The Tundra/Revtek combo is EXACTLY the same as the 4Runner Frankenstein setup. Softness wise, so ANdy and Myself certainly are on the same page.

5. With the Revtek top put and the OME shock, I droop too far. I;m firly certain this is why my axle cage snaped in moab, high tourque and over extended. I will liming strap the front and everything will be fine.

This is the best 3rd Gen front lift BAR NONE.

A. 4WD TRD Tundra Coils
B. Revtek Top Out or Andy's Spacer
C. Daystar studs cut down
D. ARB/OME Heavy Duty front shocks N91S
E. Limiting straps, only if you wheel it hard.

This is cheaper to put together than the Frankenstein setup.

 

didn't andy get 2.5" out of this setup?

 

Yeah, I guess. Maybe my engine is heavier. More metal and less belts. ???

Yep, I only get 2" even which is fine. Brand New 4WD TRD Coils. Not used stuff.

 

Perhaps the extra weight of your full belly skid, extra T-Case and kick out sliders???

Good research, if the Fabtechs bomb for me, this is the route

 

Good point Jim. I bet that has something to do with it. My concern would be the inevitable break-in settling of the new coil. 2" now with the topout...what will it be in a month or so after some Steve-style wheeling?

 

Center skid is off right now, I only put it on when I wheel. So all I have is front skid, TJM bumper & winch.

The extra case is aluminum and in the middle of the truck, the rear springs are going to pull 1/2 of that load. Kick out sliders are actually ligher than my old Kongs sliders. Which I never realized were seriously heavy duty.

So I still don't think there is an engine weigth difference.

 

With stock Toyota Japaneese made coils. There is NO break-in settling. That is why we are so hell bent on useing a stock coil. Those 99 4Runner coils I have run for 10 months are just as tall as the day I put them in and look at what they have been through.

OME coils shrink, Toyota-Japaneese coils do not.

 

Considering I have a 99' V6 and had the same part# springs Steve is currently running, I can say that ALL springs will eventually shrink. Mine lost at least an 1" of ride height from when I first purchased my rig, but the factory springs do retain their ride height longer than aftermarket.

 

I just installed mine:
Tundar Coils, Rubber isolator, no rev-tek (tried to at first but made it way to difficult to get shock back in (assembly too long).

I ended up right back where i was (maybe even a little higher) with OME 881's, rubber isolater and an in the back 3/4" thick metal spacer with the factory top plate.

I am satisfied we will see if it settles any, driving it back to my parents house from my house on the worst road known to man it seems much softer.

I would attribute my extra height to having no additional front end weight.

 

Yeah...I forgot you had been abusing the Franks for that long. Looks like I will try out the Tundras at the end of the month. I need to pull my SAWs anyways to replace the heims and I may as well keep them off if the Tundra/Revtek works out. I'll be curious to see if I come out at 2" or 2.5".

 

What about all the 2nd Gen. 4Runners with the ass-sag problem? Just wondering.

 

FZJ-80 Coils.

 

Ok, I have both Tundra coils in. I have a very solid 2" EVEN of lift. It had better not go down and I don't think it will.

But here is something weird, well not so weird, but I have TONS more droop. Turns out the Tundra wraps are in a slightly different spot and they let the ball joint go further down. There is no doubt that I broke that alxe in Moab due to too much droop past what it could handle.

Needles to say, the Tundra coils with out spacers ARE softer than the 4Runner coils with the 1.5" Cornbred spacers. So the Tundra coils are the bomb. I am going to have to use liming straps to chill the droop.

Another thing is I re-measured my old 18" straps and with weather they shrunk to 17". So they were holding my rear back in Moab May 2004. Now I have 19" with the top mount moved up 1/2" so they are like 18.5" and are perfect.

Now I have to strap the front and then I can really hammer it hard.

By the way the Tundra TRD coils I bought are not progressive, all the wraps are evenly spaced. The Tacoma coils are the progressive ones, NOT the Tundra.

 

Sweet... I was guessing that I was at about 2.25", but I went from stock setup to stock w/ cornfed 1", to Tundra w/ 2.5" cornfed, to this. I was 1/4" lower than the regular Tundra coils and the 2.5" spacer after I added the winch and SC. I assumed that I was getting a full 2.25" to begin with (with spacers) - and it looks like I'm pretty close...

As I said before, the difference b/w the 4cyl and the 6cly (both 4wd) should be no more than 150#. That's about 3/8" ride height difference AT MOST.

My next thing on my to-do list is to go measure a 99 or 00 Limited 4wd runner and get the hub/fender measurement so I know how much lift I got compared to stock.

The material arrived at the CNC shop on Friday. Hopefully the spacers will get cut today or tomorrow and be in my hands later this week.

 

Steve, are you going to use the3/8" spacer? Or would it be too much lift? Would adding the spacer on a v-6 still be the way to go with the Tundra springs?

 

I did use the 3/8" thick Revtek spacer along with the 4WD TRD V8 Tundra coils.

Yes, you will need the spacer no matter what engine you have.

 

As always, thanks!!!!

 

do you think that your aftermarket upper control arms are also contributing to having too much droop? I'm wondering if it will be neccesary to use limit straps with your setup but with stock control arms.

 

I ordered the adjustable front limiting straps. $115.00 for all the parts and I weld it on.

I think we need to find out WHY I droop so far and Andy does not. I am willing to bet the Bilstein shock is a bit shorter at full extension. Which would hold the droop back. Also maybe the ATS arms actually do give you more droop.

???

 

That's what we need to find out. Someone with the Tundra coils on OME front shocks and the Revtek top out. Do they droop into the coil?