Did you actually look at the parts screen, because I did and they are listed in Milimeters, not by spring rate.

So the service guy measures the coil and gets a replacement that way. They don't have spring rates or the color codes in the parts computer.

I read your thread on TTORA, You guys are seriously confused. 882? I really feel sorry for that guy.

The TRD Tundra coil will hold a winch, give you dead nuts 2" of lift with a 3/8" topout, ride like a Cadillac on the street, Flex like crazy off road, Take So Cal high speed desert like a champ.

The 1999 4Runner coil is the longest. Now I have pics of 1998, 1999 and 2001, V6, 4WD, 16" wheel springs. and without a doubt 1999 got an extra wrap.

The 1999 4Runner coils and the TRD Tundra coils are the same length and have the same number of wraps, the difference is that they are Progressive and have a thicker wire.

The bonus is that you get a lift WITH progressive coils. Something every Tacoma owner has to give up if they want to lift there TRD Tacoma.

I'm not webwheeling, I have physically held all of these parts and photographed them personally.

 

Feeling sorry for me? Lol. I am getting pretty confused. I feel like the subjective opinions on these coils are all over the place (more so than they should be). OMEs are well thought of over at TTORA for the most part, while over here at YotaTech you guys think they are the devil-coil incarnate (in the front) as far as 'ride quality' goes.

I get further confused when here at Yota I read that Tundra coils ride like a nice soft caddy, while on TTORA the rumor is that those who tried them said they are as stiff as scott peterson is guilty.

Since they are are similar vehicles these same/similar setups really should not invoke such large differences in ride quality opinions....right?

I feel like I'm being a thread leech..."tell me what to do I don't know anything at all and don't want to do the work to figure it out waa waa waa"...lol, but as much as I read and compare and research, I can't get this figured out....

Merry Christmas btw to all...

 

I find that 4Runner and Tacoma people are different.

In all respect, Yotatechers have run Aftershock @ the Hammers with stock like IFS.

TTORA members needed to build SAS trucks to run the same trail.

Maybe it's a wheel base difference who knows? We get the exact same results across the country. 4 4Runners in AZ all the same, 1 in Alabama, 1 in Gerogia, 1 in Montana all gaining the same results.

Pick your poison.

Happy New Year !!!

 

sort of makes sense on the Taco coil rates. I'll have to check with my parts guy again on where he got the different spring rates because the only way they would be different is if the wire diameter is different. OME coils, 880-882, are all the same wire and rate, just different lengths (info from ARB). I can't imagine Toyota would really have that many different wire diameters for the varrious applications...too expensive. Do you know if the V6 Tundra coils are lighter rated than the v8 coils like Downey's cataloge states or just different lengths?

since the Runners are a heavier truck than the Tacos I'm starting to wonder about trying different Runner coils on Tacos. It doesn't seem that this have been done much, especially w/in the ttora membership. Are the Runner coils a straight swap to the Taco or do you need Runner top-plates to make them work?

the 15", 650# Elbachs that I have in my SAWs seem to be working fine on my 2.7 excab but may be a tad heavy. I don't get quite the flex out of these that I got with the OMEs...but at least I don't bottom out on every bump anymore

 

Happy new year to you too man.

It's too bad though that you find the Tacoma owners that way. I'm not familiar with Aftershock at the Hammers, but I have seen that the need to "overbuild" the truck permeates our club (TTORA) in some areas. I came from Colorado down to Texas with my 1.5" OME lift and 31's, and I was referred to as the "crazy stock guy who kept up with everyone else" (they all had 2-3" body lifts, 2-3" suspension lifts and 33's at least).

I was surprised by my much-more-lifted friend Barry who said he thought he needed an SAS to get ready for Moab. Why?!!?!? I startled him when I told him I'd been to moab in my mild truck and had a great time on trails like Poison Spider. An SAS is great, but if I can already do 9 out of 10 trails I'll be happy until I can ride them all a few times, lol.

Anyhow, I'm not going to throw out this Tundra Coil idea just yet - but I'm going to research some more before I make a decision.

Hey - as a side note: I've noticed some of you don't like SAWs....care to mention why?

 

i really like the Tundra coils so far. OME N91S with 2 trim packers and Tundra 4WD (non-progessive) coils (no top spacer).

 

I don`t like them cuz they cost to much to begin with and take to much time to service vs. just changing the shock itself. Also, takes a lot of off/on with the wheels to get them leveled side to side.

 

Huh? just use the spanner wrench while they're on the truck. thats what I do with mine. jacking the front up and removing the tire does help though.

 

Very difficult to get the spanner wrench in there with the wheels on.

 

[QUOTE=JonnyOzero3]


Anyhow, I'm not going to throw out this Tundra Coil idea just yet - but I'm going to research some more before I make a decision.

QUOTE]
Tundra coils are 170 bucks shipped brand new. They ride great, flex well and are Toyota factory pieces. They are not as firm/stiff as OME. This is why I endorse this setup.

 

[QUOTE=FilthyRich]you see, this is where I am completely confused. The OME coils, 880,881 snd 882 are all a 500# rated coil (figures straight from ARB in Seattle), just different lengths. the OE Tundra coils are in the 600#+ area from what I've read...other than here. Where is the Tundra coil's 475# rating that I see posted here coming from??

 

Most of us have laid the 750 down and have ran them. They are stiff and very delicate.

Not real durable and are quite stiff. I wasted my money.

http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/saw.html

 

Been there done that. Mark Griese in TTORA, 4X4Wire Tacoma Moderator and on this board, ran a set of 2000 4Runner V6, 4WD, 16" wheel bilstein/2" Cornbred/4Runner coil setup back in 2003 on our trip to Colorado. That was what opened up my etes to the SAW's. All of a sudden Mark had front flex. His wife wanted her coils back.

He currently has 1998 4Runner coils on OME shocks with 2.5" Cornbreds.

4Runner coils on a Tacoma does not really do anything, we have already really done it.

 

All I have to say is fine one of these guy who has the Tundra coils and ride in the truck.

Those OME 881 coils are quite stiff. The Tundra coils are silly soft. So silly soft you have to run a front sway bar on the street.

It is best to use the top-out with the TRD Tundra coils be cause a trim packer will ruin the progressive effect.


Can anyone with 881's do this?



No. This is with stock coils and a "Frankestein" spacer combo. The Tundra coil removed the Cornbred part and make the setup even softer yet making this even easier to hit.

Bottom line, you get full articulation with very little pressure on the suspension.

 

I just got done installing my OME/OEM lift (*LOL*)

Front consisted of:

Tundra 4x4 coils (yel/yel - yel/blu)
OME N91S front shocks
1 set of HDPE spacers
1" diff drop spacers
Prothane steering rack bushing kit

Rear consisted of:
OME N86 rear shock
OME 891 rear coils
Sonoran Steel pan hard bar


The install was a BITCH, but saved me over $400 in labor costs to have someone else do it. Plus I learned a LOT about my suspension and how it all works incase something breaks on the trail.

Now to get 285's and a 1" body lift.

The ride so far is smooth and enjoyable. I'm going to the mountians tomorrow to play in some snow, so I'll let you know how the ride is on the freeway and off-road.

My lift was only supposed to be 2.5-3", but I can tell you it was WAY more because my old suspension was sagging beyond belief.

Pre-install measurements were:

Front - 32.5"
Rear - 33.0"

Ground to bottom of moulding

After install measurements are:

Front - 37"
Rear - 37.5"

BIG difference in stance and looks. The ride is amazing (mostly because I was on blownout suspension)


Ok, one last thing.....

I know the cups on the front shocks are supposed to go DOWN, where the coil goes OVER the cup......

BUT, being an old school car modifier.... I remember the days we used to flip the cup from pointing UP, to DOWN to get a few extra inches of lowering. So I did just the opposite, I put the cup which was supposed to face down, UP!

It works too! The tundra spring fit PERFECTLY in the base of the cup!

Oh yea, almost forgot to mention. Whoever it was that said you couldn't turn the shock once the spring was tightened down is full of it. My springs were fully tightened and I was able to turn the shock by hand to fit into the bottom mount with no problems.

The rear shocks suck, thank's Toyota for leaving me some ROOM to get my TOOLS IN!!! YOU SKINNY BASTARDS!!!!!!

 

yea, definitely a great writeup, have to read that a couple times to make sure i got everything right before I buy all of it and take it to a place to get installed on my 4runner. hey on those pics where you are on an incline, did you have any problems with rubbing, I could imagine thats could be a nightmare, offroading and getting stuck on a rock, and on your wheelwell, lol

 

I had all the parts for my lift for the last couple weeks but this week I finally bit the bullet. I'm now running the tundra coils with revtek spacer and N91S in the front with the 891 and N86 in the rear. I also had 285/75R16 Revos put on. The install was a PITA but well worth it. The rear shocks would have come off much easier with a deep wall 14mm socket, but guess what was the only socket missing out of my set. I ended up putting a wrench on the top and using a bar though the spring hole to keep it from turning, then I had both hands to turn the shock off. The front went smooth until the install of the longer strut. Who would have thought that a half inch cold be so hard. I had to compress pat of the spring while on the vehicle then used a bar to lever the bottom of the shock in place. Anyway, I'm glad the hard part is over. I have a 1.5" body lift and a diff drop sitting at home so we're not out of the woods yet.
Within the next month or two I'll be taking care of the panhard and bump stops.

Has anyone figured out front limiting straps yet? If so point me in the right direction, I'm not on here as much as I used to be, I got a new job that dosent require 10 hours a day in front of a computer. Anyway, I'll have a new thread with before and after pics.

 

Worthless w/o before and after.

 

The cup is supposed to go up. That is the correct way.

Yes you can turn the shock a bit to line it up if your off.

 

Yes. I have. I'm working on a kit with My, Toyota and Kartek parts. The top mout has to be welded on. No way around that.