I have encountered the clicking noise from the bj hitting the coil. Steve, I was wondering if you could post the P/N for the limiting straps? Did you make the brackets? would you make them for resale?

 

I got them from a place called Kartek. You have to weld the sleeve tube on to your frame some where.

But then they are adjustable and you can tune how much drop you allow.

http://www.kartek.com/

The parts are not on there website, I had to call them. Staps and clevis both came from them.

The bolt I used for the shock is longer and is actually the stock bolt from the front mounts of the rear lower links.

 

Alright Homo Burrito, you make up your mind yet?

 

I wheel it this weekend. I cleaned the arms up and with the brand new bushings they are as good an new, if not the same as new.

Looking at a $250 price tag. That's 130 less than Inland for the same thing. Only part that wears has been replaced, powder coat is flawless.

 

Oh my....It's happening again... :pat:

 

It's easy enough to confirm, I'll call ARB USA in a few minutes when they open and I'll ask about the coil diameters, lengths, and spring rates for OME stuff. That will give us an idea as to whether they'd work and what kind of lift they'd offer.

BRB!

Ok, BACK!

The OME coils for the rear of an FZJ-100 are 220#/in spring rate, 460mm long, and 180mm diameter wraps (just over 7" and use 80PR10 trimpackers). They are 20% more firm than factory and will provide 1.5" of lift.

Bad news is that I've had some 80PR10s and they DON'T fit our rear coil springs.

 

The best part...there aren't 500 equipment/suspension packages in the LC.

 

I know this is a little different than where this has been going but I have a Question I would love help with...I have a 98 Taco trd V6 that I aquired a few years ago well the thing is it came with a plow(which is fine as we get alot of snow in this area and I wheeled my 85 4runner till I rolled it)..
OK I see that several have put the tundra coils and bilstiens in and I would like to know how direct of a bolt in is it and should I look for a specific year...

I think this would best serve my purposes for this truck the plow sags the front end..but after a few years of this the sag has gotten worse as to be expected..I am hoping the heavier duty tunda coils and bilstiens would balance out what is basically my work truck hauls boat lumber and plows...

any thoughts would be much appreciated

 

If you just order by the part numbers listed on the first page, it will be easy. It WILL fit a Tacoma. However, you'll have to compress the front coil assembly to re-use your top plate with the new strut and coil. This is a major PITA unless you have air tools, I suggest you have a shop do that for you ($30 or so).

I bet you wouldn't need the 3/8" spacer either, as your rear isn't lifted.

 

thanks for the heads up..I have access to the tools needed(little bro works at a shop)
although I was thinking with the added height I might aal in the rear

 

How much does your entire plow setup weigh? Any estimate?

 

I believe a little over 500 lbs .....it came with it from the dealer I would have prefered not to have it on what at the time was a newer toyota but up here in the rust belt its slim pickens...my 85 runner i had imported from N.M. and it was mint....still sad it was totaled...I will find another one to wheel....my point is I didnt have a need for the plow but over time I have made some money with it and have grown accustom to it.....

btw there are several tacos and older toy pick ups running plows in this area and the seem to suffer as I do from the sag

 

o ya plow is quick disco so its only on for storms thats why I think I might need to up the rear

 

Looks good Steve. So the reason for the limiting straps is a combination of the larger outer diameter of the Tundra coils and the extended length of the OME shocks.

Just to confirm I am reading this right, you are sacrificing ~2" of droop with this set-up?

I'm looking forward to hearing how it handles on the trails.

 

Yes and no. The Tundra coils are the same diameter as the 4Runner coils. The back of the ball joints were slapping the 4Runner coil in Pritchett Canyon when you rode along, maybe you did not notice it? The straps are just some of my fine tuneing. Nothing to do with Tundra coils, everything to do with the very long OME shock.


No. I have 9" of useable travel, I bet you have a fraction of that with what you have. The OME front shocks are longer than the SAW shock, add the Revtek topout and it's pretty darn long. Longer than the front drive axles can handle.

Hence my axle breakage in Moab, the cage came apart, pretty typical of an overextended axle that bound up.

 

Thanks, I think I understand now. I seem to remember you mentioning that ticking sound on Pritchett but I don't recall what you said it was. And yes...I can almost guarantee I am not even close to having that kind of travel.

 

Fine, the truck is in perfect alignment. They said they got it totally in spec.

It's good. You still have your stock arms right? Well if you want to run 35's stay with the ATS arms.

 

I still have my stock arms but 35s would be way in the future. I need more wheel time before I would consider making that jump. Lisa saw me checking out what you did to fit 35s and she wasn't too happy about it.

For now, I would like to try the Tundra/OME set-up with the stock arms and see how that works for me.

 

Cool man. I bet she can wheel like crazy.

 

Ok. I have some new numbers because I added a second top spacer for a total or 3/4" of spacer outside of the pack. I was 1/4" or so from hitting the bumpstops. On droop, the BJ had a little bit more to go before it hit the coil.

Normal: 22.5" on both sides
At Stuff: 17"
At Droop" 26"

So thats...3" down travel & 5.5" up travel. I say 8.5 inches of travel is pretty stinkin good

Numbers corrected for 2" BL.