I have to wheel it a few times to make sure the cut-up stock arms are going to hold. I have no reason to think they will not, but you never know.

If not I will have to go back to the ATS.

 

Soo....You did the major fab work to prevent the BJ from hitting the coil, and to reduce 1/8" of droop, right?

 

No, the major fab work was so the 35" tires that are 12.5" wide can turn. The limiting straps keep it from going down too far.

 

You're so serious sometimes... But, I knew that would be your answer. I hope it works out for you. It looks cool! Nice job, as usual.

G

 

Not what I meant..but..let me go again After re-reading the thread, I still don't see why the ATS arms were "bad". You messed with the cams, and it changed your lift height. Do you think if you left the ATS arms on and got an alignment, you would have gotten the same ~2" the rest of us are getting? Besides clearing bigger tires, the arms are to "buy back" 1" of droop stolen by the lift, right? The droop was excessive, so you lost the arms? Or am I missing the point entirely?

 

The ATS arms push the steering and the axle shafts out to the limit, Add drop to this limit and your going to break things.

The ATS vs Stock has NOTHING do do with lift and EVERTHING to do with parts breakage.

Yes I would get the same 2" with stock or ATS arms.

 

Got it..100%.

 

Any pics of what the arms look like now???

 

Ok it's all done and I really like it.

Now keep in mind the ONLY reason I had to modify the upper stock arms was for the 315/75/16 tires I have. In the end the Modified Stock arms and the ATS arms gave the same droop, etc. So there is nothing wrong with the ATS arms what so ever.

The difference is. ATS arms push alighment cams all the way out, this increases chances of axle and steering breakage under high tourqe crawling, but not under high speed desert, which they were designed. This is not because they are longer but due to the fact that they streighten the ball joint at lift, which then makes them geometricly longer. They are designed to work the best when set high, like 3" of lift. So at 2" it's a wash. The other thing is they are designed to work with the 2" ID coils of the SAW and other bolt on coil overs. They do not work as well with the stock 3" ID coils. ATS/Inland moved the ball joint slightly forward increaseing contact with a stock coil, but this is a non-issue with a 2" ID SAW style coil.


So why did I spend a week making the stock arms work? Two reasons.

1. I want my truck to look as stock as a 4Runner on 35's can look. That way it stays a sleeper.

2. The more stock parts I can put on the better. Think of the bragging rights I have now. I have a front suspension with an aftermarket shock but other than that it's all stock. Stock components. We'll just hope they don't see the Revtek thing.

So I have 9" of travel out of stock stuff. That all the rest of you can do as well for very little money.

1. Tundra Coils (yellow-yellow & blue-yellow, is prefered)
2. OME HD Shock
3. Andy/Revtek top out
4. Daystar Studs

Cheap and it is extremely good. I have 2.5" of droop controlled by the straps, they take the ball joint to the coil. 6.5" of stuff that with these Tundra coils without spacers are actually SOFTER than the Frankenstein setup with 4Runner coils. Stuff City. So a stock truck would have 4.5" up and 4.5" down.

One last thing, I need the limiting straps because the OME shocks are so dang long. The straps stop the droop a hair before the back of the ball joint droops into the coil spring. Which would stop the droop anyway. The straps stop the little "click" I would get when wheeling and it would full droop.


Here is how much clearanceing I had to do for the 35's.



Here's how it looks all done.

 

Looking good Steve.

 

WOW... 9" of travel. I gotta find a better place to test mine out.

 

how did you manage to get the strut assembly installed with the rev-tek on top? mine was too long and i didn't see an easy way to do it and the rain was coming so i left it out in the interest of a timely installation so i could get out of the rain.

on another note, i really want to see some measurements from some stock 4runners because i have a feeling that we are all a little higher than we expect.

 

I'll go see if I can find a stock 99 or 00 limited on a dealer lot to get a measurement from. Brian has a 00 SR5 4WD, but it has my old limited rear springs and some taco front springs in it.

 

Place the stock bottle jack upside down from the ball joint nut to the fender liner. Crank that puppy down, and insert the assembly. I managed to do it with two 3/8" spacers.

 

Or just take the 4 bolts out on the lower ball joint, totally easy then.

 

maybe i will try this after tellico this weekend, when things calm down a little.

 

Ok I was talkin to the Cheese on the phone and he metioned that he heard a rumor that the FZJ-100 series rear coils would fit the 3rd Gen 4Runner.

You thinkin what I'm thinking? All stock but the shocks.

 

i have often wondered that my self, the 80 coils fit the 2nd gen it only seems fitting

 

Hmmmm... No Steve! Resist the temptation!!! Don't do it, you might have to get rid of the rest of your BLING!!!

 

All the bling is gone. Only thing left is OME 891's N86's and 1" Cornball spacers.