Nice work.

I guess I have to add this to my list of things to do to run 35's :pat:

Maybe this is a good raffle gift certificate item : Should I set an appointment for January 14th

 

Keep in mind it took me all day to do 1 arm. You more or less have 2 hours of work and that's at half price.

 

I'll be curious to see how everything looks after an alignment. I wonder if this will create some additional rubbing issues for you since you don't have the additional length (small as it is) of the ATS arms.

Nice work on the arms. Paint those bad boys up and they will look like a factory product.

 

Yup, and they were removed for ALL measurements - still are...



Steve - Way to go on the arms. LOL, So, what other SoCal blingy things have you added that I need to call you out on?

 

That's it, it's all gone now. Looks like with all the droop I will still need the limiting straps. I need to pull the 3 1/8" back to 3".

Move the ball joint forward so it has less clearnace, boy that is brilliant. And those exposed heim balls. No thanks.

This morning I'm going to go out and set the cams back to all the way out so I can drive it.

 

Instead of keeping the blingy $100+ limiting straps, just take your revtek spacers out of the top and grind them down about 1/16" at the contact points w/ the upper strut mount and you'll lose your 1/8" in overall height and keep the droop at 3.125", but the CV won't be extended quite that far. However, before you do any of that, I'd get an alignment and see what the heck's going on w/ all the extra lift.

So, can you still drive w/ the 35's??? I think that's going to be the MOST important question. BTW, isn't it like 5:54 AM there? Wow, you're up a tad bit early, or did you just work through the night like Brian did on his 85?

For everyone else following this... Steve and I were talking about the ATS Arms yesterday, and the fact that they stick out further than stock may have contributed to the CV failure at Moab. With the CV joints extended beyond normal operating range, at full droop, there would be less surface contact area w/in the joint, providing for potential carnage w/ a crawler and locker and unforgiving traction on the rocks at Moab.

 

No, I was done around 5:30 last night. I get up early before the kids so I get some quite time.

I'll have to see what shakes out after I get the other arm on and an alignment.

Maybe I can just pull the Revtek altogether. But comon sence says I will need it.

I might keep the clevis part and put it on the back, that way I can fine tune those straps, which has always been difficult since when they make them, they are never exaclty the right length. Always off by 1/2" or some other variable.

I will be glad to loose the extra push outward of those arms, they had the steering arms turned way out as well as the axle shafts pulled out more than they need to be.

With the arms I cut off a 1/2 egg shell like thing that was 1/8" thick and added back on a flat plate that was 1/4" thick. I also cleaned up some of the factory welds.

 

It looks VERY good. Keep us posted after you get the other arm on. So, when are you listing the ATS arms on YT and TTORA???

 

I don't know. I think I will keep all this stuff includeing the 4Runner coils, until this all shakes out. You never know.

Once it's good and all set streight, I'll sell it off. The ATS Arms are fine with the SAW or other Bling coil overs since the coil diameter is smaller.

Some one in SoCal will be very happy with them. I just don't live in SoCal.

 

I was being sarcastic...Believe me I understand how long good fabrication work takes.

You should send a pic of these to a certain shop that has been known to butcher UCA's...

 

I bet they would charge $800 or more for 2 arms like that.

Too bad I don't live in Colorado, I would be a very wealthy man.

 

You've never heard of UPS, FedEx, etc??? lol

So, is the market shifting from Sonoran Steel Bumpers to SS Sliders to SS modified OEM Arms?

 

I think I'm going to add another top spacer in the front to see what I end up with. I'm still not hitting the upper arm, so it shouldn't limit droop - that is being done by the billies. I'll have to add a set in the rear to level it out, but that's a cakewalk to install. That won't change the ride any since it's outside of the coilpack, and I'll gain another 1/2" of lift.

The next batch of spacers may see some 1/2" thick material as well for some 3/4" front and 1/2" rear lift spacers in addition to the 1/2" ones in production now.

 

I'm about the pull the spacer out. I set the cams back to all the way out and with your method of measureing, I'm at 2.75" of front lift !!!

If it does not go down, I'm going to have to pull the Revtek. Then my droop issues will be gone as well.

Stock upper arms, Stock Tundra coils, Stock, Stock, Stock......

 

Stock? Did someone say they have a stock 4Runner with 315s on it? Has the traded in his crown for an apron so he can be a stock boy at the local grocery store?

You guys are killing me with this post!

 

lol... I see the court jester finally showed up.

 

My stock 4Runner will SPANK your modifed one. Especially if you drive.




quiter.

 

Your just jelious that you missed out on all the spooning in Moab.


:drum: :rockband:

 

 

I'm VERY curious about this extra top spacer, I've been seriously considering it- thats why I asked you earlier about a 1/2" variation. Maybe I'll MAKE one today, then get a frikin alignment. BFG's are REALLY beginning to wear.

Also, I have *4x4* Tundra HD Billies. I wonder if they're longer?