new shocks on old 4runner
12-03-2002, 05:01 AM
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new shocks on old 4runner
I occasionally take my 4runner to the dealership to let them do an oil change. I do this so they also give me a run down of what my "next steps" of maintenance might be.
The last time I was in the list had a couple of items that seem important: timinig belt check, and replace "soft" shocks. I have never done a timing belt check and the shocks are original. Should I do this at the dealer or is a nationwide chain store just as good at doing these things?
Also what are some suggestions for new shocks for city and highway driving? are there any other things i should look at replacing while changing my shocks. My offroad days are over in this 90 4runner with around 70k miles on it.
Thanks, D
The last time I was in the list had a couple of items that seem important: timinig belt check, and replace "soft" shocks. I have never done a timing belt check and the shocks are original. Should I do this at the dealer or is a nationwide chain store just as good at doing these things?
Also what are some suggestions for new shocks for city and highway driving? are there any other things i should look at replacing while changing my shocks. My offroad days are over in this 90 4runner with around 70k miles on it.
Thanks, D
12-03-2002, 05:18 AM
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For shocks, there are quite a few possibilites:
OME - supposedly a fairly soft shock
Rancho - probably somewhere between the OME and Bilstein, but still fairly stiff, I have been very happy with my set of 5000's
Bilstein - pretty stiff shock, but give a very good overall ride
KYB - not really sure
Tokico - not really sure
Others will chime in to give more information-
OME - supposedly a fairly soft shock
Rancho - probably somewhere between the OME and Bilstein, but still fairly stiff, I have been very happy with my set of 5000's
Bilstein - pretty stiff shock, but give a very good overall ride
KYB - not really sure
Tokico - not really sure
Others will chime in to give more information-
12-03-2002, 05:41 AM
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I'm about to buy some new shocks, and I'm looking at the Edelbrock. Corey recommended them to me. Plus Performance Products gives a 30 day money back Guarantee. So if I don't liek them , they'll go back and we'll try something else.
12-03-2002, 05:54 AM
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First off: You have a '90 4Runner w/only 70k on it? That's very impressive, that baby's just being broken in. 
Timing belts are changed out at specific mileage intervals. When it's nearing that threshold the belt is changed, no matter the shape it is in or whether it gets checked or not. It must be done, regardless.
You already have good recommendations on shocks here, so I'll skip that.
As for labor, a nationwide shop will be just as good at both of these things, perhaps even better at shock replacement...
Al
Timing belts are changed out at specific mileage intervals. When it's nearing that threshold the belt is changed, no matter the shape it is in or whether it gets checked or not. It must be done, regardless.
You already have good recommendations on shocks here, so I'll skip that.
As for labor, a nationwide shop will be just as good at both of these things, perhaps even better at shock replacement...
Al
12-04-2002, 05:47 AM
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Thanks for those shock suggestions. I will try and yellow page locate a shop around chicago that might specialize in 4wheel drives and trucks. Let me know if any of you know of any in the area that are dependable.
Yes I feel this car is just getting broken in. Im the original owner and bought it for use in colorado. I moved quickly to Chicago and have been city bound since not being able to use the truck much at all. I feel its in great condition although I'm not an expert. It has never given me one problem (knock on wood). I would love to get the shocks and belt fixed so that I can see if this improves my high speed vibration problem.
Once I find some shops what are some questions I should ask about the shock install? Is there a standard price range I should look for? Do I need coils? Is there anything else shock or strut -wise I should look into doing while this is being done to enhance the trucks performance?
Sorry for all the questions...but thanks again for all the help
D
Yes I feel this car is just getting broken in. Im the original owner and bought it for use in colorado. I moved quickly to Chicago and have been city bound since not being able to use the truck much at all. I feel its in great condition although I'm not an expert. It has never given me one problem (knock on wood). I would love to get the shocks and belt fixed so that I can see if this improves my high speed vibration problem.
Once I find some shops what are some questions I should ask about the shock install? Is there a standard price range I should look for? Do I need coils? Is there anything else shock or strut -wise I should look into doing while this is being done to enhance the trucks performance?
Sorry for all the questions...but thanks again for all the help
D
12-04-2002, 07:55 AM
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A pair of new rear coil springs would really help your stance and eliminate the rear-end sag that 2nd Gen's have. You should try to install the shocks yourself - it really isn't hard at all. Let us know if you have any other questions.
12-04-2002, 08:45 AM
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I would love to try to do the shocks myself. I just have never done much automotively before. I am pretty "handy" and I was able to follow instructions I found online to replace the broken mast on my power antanae...but real work I've never done.
Is there a detailed page on how to change shocks? I would need to know what kind of tools to use on my '90 sr5 v6 and what parts to order and the best place to get them from as well
I would also be very interested in getting rid of my sagging rear end. What do I need to do to replace rear coils? and where should I get these parts?
Thanks for any help
D
Is there a detailed page on how to change shocks? I would need to know what kind of tools to use on my '90 sr5 v6 and what parts to order and the best place to get them from as well
I would also be very interested in getting rid of my sagging rear end. What do I need to do to replace rear coils? and where should I get these parts?
Thanks for any help
D
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12-04-2002, 08:56 AM
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To replace the shocks, all you need is a set of sockets, some PB blaster (to spray on the bolts and nuts the night before you take them off), some anti-seize compound to put on the bolt and nut threads when you reinstall the shocks, and a buddy's hand to help keep the shock bodies from turning while you are installing them.
To get rid of your rear-end sag, you should get a new pair of rear coil springs. Most on the board have either Downey heavy duty rear coils, or Performance Products coils. The Downey kit comes with coils, a relocation bracket for the brake proportioning valve (I think that is what it is for), and a stainless steel brakeline extension. The kit runs about $170 and includes everything you will need.
To get rid of your rear-end sag, you should get a new pair of rear coil springs. Most on the board have either Downey heavy duty rear coils, or Performance Products coils. The Downey kit comes with coils, a relocation bracket for the brake proportioning valve (I think that is what it is for), and a stainless steel brakeline extension. The kit runs about $170 and includes everything you will need.
12-04-2002, 05:37 PM
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I sold my '90 SR5 this past June when I bought the 2000. I miss my '90! It had 210,000 miles on it and the guy I sold it to has added another 12,000 already.
I tried KYB's after Gabriels (
) and Monroes ( ). The KYB's road very stiff, but the truck handled like it was on rails. I didn't mind, but the old lady hated it
. I put Bilstein's on my 2000 and I love 'em. Changing shocks is relatively easy IF the bolts aren't frozen.
I replaced the timing belt at 96,000 miles (same time the head gasket went and was fixed under the "recall") and again at 180,000. The suggested interval is 60,000 miles.
You should try the oil changes yourself. Also very simple, but kinda messy even if you remove the skid plate. But it gives you a chance to get familiar with things. Oil and filter cost about $10-$12 and most Jiffy Lubes or auto stores may take your old oil.
I tried KYB's after Gabriels (
) and Monroes ( ). The KYB's road very stiff, but the truck handled like it was on rails. I didn't mind, but the old lady hated it . I put Bilstein's on my 2000 and I love 'em. Changing shocks is relatively easy IF the bolts aren't frozen.I replaced the timing belt at 96,000 miles (same time the head gasket went and was fixed under the "recall") and again at 180,000. The suggested interval is 60,000 miles.
You should try the oil changes yourself. Also very simple, but kinda messy even if you remove the skid plate. But it gives you a chance to get familiar with things. Oil and filter cost about $10-$12 and most Jiffy Lubes or auto stores may take your old oil.
12-04-2002, 08:07 PM
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Bilstein or edelbrocks will give you the best ride. Do a search around here and you'll find a lot of discussions about this. Then when you post that you love the ride and wish you had changed earlier, I'll say I told you so
If it's a 90 with only 70k miles, then it's in its prime for off roading! You should take it out and see what it can do, you'll be surprized.
If you can turn a wrench then you can change the shocks. All you do is take off 2 nuts on each shock and take off the shock. Then put on the new shock and put the nuts back on. I would recommend one of those new strap wrench thingies at sears or costco to hold onto the shock body while you turn the nuts. I didn't have one when I changed mine and ended up using big pliers to hold on. Ended up bending the metal cover, but it didn't matter since they went in the trash anyway.
Check out my webpage for my rear coil install. It's also written up on the tech page at yotatech.
Steve
If it's a 90 with only 70k miles, then it's in its prime for off roading! You should take it out and see what it can do, you'll be surprized.
If you can turn a wrench then you can change the shocks. All you do is take off 2 nuts on each shock and take off the shock. Then put on the new shock and put the nuts back on. I would recommend one of those new strap wrench thingies at sears or costco to hold onto the shock body while you turn the nuts. I didn't have one when I changed mine and ended up using big pliers to hold on. Ended up bending the metal cover, but it didn't matter since they went in the trash anyway.
Check out my webpage for my rear coil install. It's also written up on the tech page at yotatech.
Steve
12-05-2002, 05:40 AM
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Thanks for all the advice on the shocks and the rear coils. I have been looking at personal webpages on how to do the coils. That seems like a bit much for me. I would be doing most of this myself and I am definitely lacking some of the required tools and knowledge. The shocks seem doable however.
Should these be done at the same time preferably? When I got to the performance website they show bilstein shocks for my runner both front and rear models. Are these prices in pairs Or is the $96 for the front just for 1 of the 2 front shocks I would need (stupid question...but I'm just learning) Also could someone point me to the exact model of rear downey coil I would need tohave installed to reduce my sag.
Thanks again for all the advice and tips. It looks like I might be picking up another hobby.
...and yes with the crappy economy giving me some time off I plan on taking my runner on an american adventure soon.
D
Should these be done at the same time preferably? When I got to the performance website they show bilstein shocks for my runner both front and rear models. Are these prices in pairs Or is the $96 for the front just for 1 of the 2 front shocks I would need (stupid question...but I'm just learning) Also could someone point me to the exact model of rear downey coil I would need tohave installed to reduce my sag.
Thanks again for all the advice and tips. It looks like I might be picking up another hobby.
...and yes with the crappy economy giving me some time off I plan on taking my runner on an american adventure soon.
D
12-05-2002, 05:50 AM
#12
If you get the Downey's like I and several others have, get the HD model.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/tech/downey.jpg
48290-HD
As Steve mentioned, he has a write-up here, and there is another one here.
http://www.media-north.com/4wd/4runcoil.htm
You should do all 4 shocks at once.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/tech/downey.jpg
48290-HD
As Steve mentioned, he has a write-up here, and there is another one here.
http://www.media-north.com/4wd/4runcoil.htm
You should do all 4 shocks at once.
12-05-2002, 06:37 AM
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bilsteins run for about $70-$180 each... depending on the model. im am going to buy new shocks shortly, and was deciding on the rancho 9000's or the bilsteins. the rancho 9000's are adjustable from inside the cab,... but i heard that they were being discontinued.... so im probably going with the bilsteins. all my friends and lots of ppl recommend me getting the bisteins. they are supposed to just ride absolutely supperb! the newer toyotas and chevy's are supposed to come stock with bilsteins, which model, i dont know.
check out the bilstein site:
http://www.bilstein.com/products/x100page.html
also, here http://www.allprooffroad.com/shocks.html
im thinking of getting hte 5100 or 6100 series.
check out the bilstein site:
http://www.bilstein.com/products/x100page.html
also, here http://www.allprooffroad.com/shocks.html
im thinking of getting hte 5100 or 6100 series.
12-05-2002, 07:38 AM
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I think you guys got hosed
I paid $149 from Central 4WD
I paid $55 a piece again from Central
It's just too bad they charged me $35 more in shipping than I was quoted!!:mad:
The kit runs about $170 and includes everything you will need.
$70-$180 each
It's just too bad they charged me $35 more in shipping than I was quoted!!:mad:
12-06-2002, 06:06 PM
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The suggestions and webpages are great. I have been doing a lot of reading up on changing this myself. The hardest part is the downey coil. I do not have stands to prop my truck on and I live right in the city so I would have to do this in the cramped space of my apartment garage.
I think I might be able to tackle the bilstein shock job. After looking under my truck I saw the bolts at the bottom of the stock shocks. The top of the shock seems to have a different attachment point...almost like it screws in rather than getting bolted in. Do you know of any detailed shock change webpages...or is it really as easy as pulling out the bolts and putting something new in?
If I decided to do the 2"HD coils later would I have to change the shocks again and get longer ones. Or would I just use the same shocks? Do the coils alone make that much height difference to raise the rear end. The webpages that I have seen with the stance I like seems to have a 1.5" coil lift as well as a 2" block lift. This job is way over my head..since it involves bending and panhard bars...which I dont even know what it is...
I think I might be able to tackle the bilstein shock job. After looking under my truck I saw the bolts at the bottom of the stock shocks. The top of the shock seems to have a different attachment point...almost like it screws in rather than getting bolted in. Do you know of any detailed shock change webpages...or is it really as easy as pulling out the bolts and putting something new in?
If I decided to do the 2"HD coils later would I have to change the shocks again and get longer ones. Or would I just use the same shocks? Do the coils alone make that much height difference to raise the rear end. The webpages that I have seen with the stance I like seems to have a 1.5" coil lift as well as a 2" block lift. This job is way over my head..since it involves bending and panhard bars...which I dont even know what it is...
12-06-2002, 06:31 PM
#18
Dorian, see the new article I put together over the past two days.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/arti...suspension.htm
You do not need longer shocks with the Downey HD coils, stock length will work.
My Edelbrock's are stock length.
And yes, putting on the new coils will raise you anywhere from 1 to 3".
Depends on how much sag you had.
Take a look at a very old pic of mine here before the Downey's.
Can you say sag?
http://www.pnw4runners.net/tando/tr7.jpg
Compare it with newer pics of my rig and in the article.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/pics&vids..._2002/bos3.jpg
http://www.pnw4runners.net/runs/8302/61024.jpg
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/arti...suspension.htm
You do not need longer shocks with the Downey HD coils, stock length will work.
My Edelbrock's are stock length.
And yes, putting on the new coils will raise you anywhere from 1 to 3".
Depends on how much sag you had.
Take a look at a very old pic of mine here before the Downey's.
Can you say sag?
http://www.pnw4runners.net/tando/tr7.jpg
Compare it with newer pics of my rig and in the article.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/pics&vids..._2002/bos3.jpg
http://www.pnw4runners.net/runs/8302/61024.jpg
12-06-2002, 08:26 PM
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Originally posted by Dorian
The top of the shock seems to have a different attachment point...almost like it screws in rather than getting bolted in. Do you know of any detailed shock change webpages...or is it really as easy as pulling out the bolts and putting something new in?
The top of the shock seems to have a different attachment point...almost like it screws in rather than getting bolted in. Do you know of any detailed shock change webpages...or is it really as easy as pulling out the bolts and putting something new in?
The only part you might have problems with is trying to keep the shock from turning while turning the nuts. That's why I suggested a strap wrench to hold it. Or, you can use a big plier, one that is big enough to hold the shock body.
The webpages that I have seen with the stance I like seems to have a 1.5" coil lift as well as a 2" block lift. This job is way over my head..since it involves bending and panhard bars...which I dont even know what it is...
Steve
