I got my truck running last night after putting a new motor in it. Checked out everything and started driving it. The engine temp would sit anywhere from 198 to 207 driving on the street at like 45mph. I got on the freeway and the temp started climbing, and the cooling system could never catch up. Even staying below 0 boost it got up to 225 and then I would stop and idle and it would cool back down to 200. I thought it was the fan clutch, so I replaced that. Runs a tad cooler on the street at 45mph, but still the temp will start climbing on the freeway. It has been about 112 degree here in arizona, so my intake temps have been in the 140 range. I still have my hood off from doing the engine, is that helping or hurting my temps? My air/fuel gauge is reading anywere from 14.2 to 15.2 when I am out of it, which seems alittle leaner then I want to be. Running 50/50 distilled water and Toyota coolant. I want to break it in, but dont want to keep getting it hot everything I drive it.

 

A common issue when the cooling system has been opened up is getting air in thr cooling passages. Did you run the motor at idle with the rad cap off to let any air that might be stuck inside escape? The same happened to my truck when I first rebuilt the motor it would climb to 220 then I did what I told you and it never goes past 190 now.

 

i agree it sounds like you have an air bubble in the system somewhere and it keeping the coolant from circulating correctly

 

Thanks I will try that now and report back.

 

I would be surprised if it wasnt an air bubble

 

Chris, make sure to run the heater on full blast when you're burping the system.

 

Just tried it and a bunch of bubbles came out. time to hop on the freeway and see if it helps

 

Still getting hot on me. up to 213 on the freeway and climbing before I got off and let it cool down. I idled it with the cap off , heater on full, it bubbled some and the coolant level dropped down a bit and I added more then drove it. I almost feel like it made it run hotter. Do you think there is still more air in the system?

 

hmm. what radiator are you using? stock or aftermarket?

 

Stock, does anybody make a good aftermarket radiator for 3rd gen's?

 

check for cold spots on the radiator . It sounds like your radiator may be clogged. when you supercharged the motor, did you install a 170 thermostat? what about the coolder IK22 denso spark plugs? Any fuel mods to the motor?

 

Waht's your coolant overflow like? if it's really full, your rad cap may be worn out. Also, watch out for either bulged or collapsed radiator hoses, this will be a sign of a plugged radiator.

 

Rad cap is brand new. I have URD's kit on there (not 7th injector). Colder plugs are in. Running a 180 thermostat. I feel like the thermostat is not causing the problem.

How do I check for cold spot(s) on the radiator?

 

URD sells the 170 thermostat as part of the 7th injector kit. I'm running a TRD 160 thermostat and my temps daily driving and highway sit right around 170-175. It does make a difference.

As far as cold spots go, after the rig is warmed up shut it down and carefully feel accross the radiator fins. OR grab a hose and lightly spray the fins and watch to see where it doesn't evaporate as fast or at all.

 

Better yet get a $20 IR thermometer to see if there are any cold spots^.

Where are you getting these temps from? The OBDII i assume? Same for the intake temps?

What does the water temp gauge on the cluster say during this?

Pretty sure that my OBDII gets to around 200 or a little more on a hot Texas summer day although it has been awhile since i looked. That is not real uncommon.

I do still think it is an air bubble or a clog somewhere though.

I would personally drain the coolant (can drain into a clean container and reuse it if it comes out clean), then put in a bottle of the super flush (there is the normal flush and then a "super" flush, get the good stuff). Then fill it up the rest of the way with distilled water.

Flush it per the back of the flush bottle. This way you know everything is nice and clean. Drain the system, refill with distilled water and drive it for a little bit then drain it again.

Now you can fill it with antifreeze, Make sure to not go any stronger then 50/50 mix, anti-freeze doesn't cool as good as water so you want as low a concentration as possible to protect you to the coldest it gets around you.

Finally make sure to add a bottle of water wetter to the system before topping it off. It really works.

After all that make sure you burp the system real well, you want to park on a hill with the radiator at the highest point if possible. Get all the air out of the system.

Should work fine after that. I have not had any problems in my truck during the heat wave of 110 degree days in Texas the last few months and i boost the heck out of my truck.

 

I am getting the temps from OB2 frome scan gauge.

The idiot temp gauge never moves, except one time when I turned the truck off for a few minutes, then back on, and it was at 3/4 the way up, with the scan gauge reading 233. YIKES.


And do you think I am just running lean? Its at like 14.7 average AFR just cruising, even higher than that on the freeway with higher RPM's with 5.29 gears.

I willl try and get more air out of the system now.

Also I still can not connect to R4 software from split second, that came with the URD goodies. When I try to connect to ECU it says can not connect, something with the COM port, and shuts down the ECU, anyone else have this problem in the past?

 

The intake temps are from the scan tool as well? Do you have an aftermarket intake?

Contrary to popular belief, running leaner then 14.7:1 actually lowers EGT's. 14.7:1 is the hottest EGT's you can get on gas. So if you are running leaner then that it would not make you run hotter, it is still a problem though with the stock ECU.

Do you have the rear heater? You turned it on full blast while bleeding right? Same for the main heater?

A simple flush of the system has fixed many a "bad" cooling system. I would try this before putting too much more effort into this. It has worked great on all my cars.

What pressure radiator cap do you have? I would try a higher pressure cap as well, this can also improve cooling as well.

After all that make sure you have the antifreeze mix just right for your temps, it hurts cooling if it is too strong and make sure to add a bottle of water wetter to the system.

If after all that you still have a problem with cooling then something else must be wrong mechanically.

 

IAT 's are from scan gauge as well. Yes I have a intake I built, simlar to a K&N CIA.

I took the rear heater system out. I am going to drain some coolant/water mix out and put in more water and water wetter.

Thanks for your help so far TA.

 

I would really flush the system, it is a good idea no matter what. Iron blocks like this will get nasty build up in them over the years. After a flush it is not uncommon for it to come out rust orange.

I would also go back to the stock intake, it makes more power and should give you lower intake temps.

Here is an old dyno of my truck. Red is the aftermarket intake, blue is the stock intake with elbow removed. Tested back to back 2 times since i didn't believe the numbers.

 

Water wetter and a more water than coolant ratio helped a bit. But I will be getting a flush done this week.

I would go back to stock intake, but the intake tube was torn, so I got rid of it. I still have my box. I will look into getting a stock tube from a friend with a taco.

Now the new problem..
I got my laptop to hook up with FTC. I was going through the instructions in gadgets UTUNE pdf. and I put in base values for the fuel and timing maps. Then I pressed "read data from ECU". When I went to start my engine, it started then died. SO I rechecked my setting under opitions menu, and the damn thing was changed to "4 stroke odd-fire" So I am pretty sure I sent the info to the ecu as a 4 stroke odd-fire.

Also I got a message saying "error#6 was generated by Project1 Overflow.

Now what? Reset the ECU?