New Lift Idea
12-21-2005, 06:02 AM
#61
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Quick question:
I was just rereading the thread to make sure I didn't miss anything as I obviously didn't listen to people before all this and was wondering if everybody thought I should go ahead and install the top out spacers right away or wait? I'm guessing that if I'm already lifted about 2.5" in the rear that I will need something to level out the front.
What do you all think? As of now, no plans for an ARB/TJM in the near future...I've spent wwwaaayyy too much money already!
Fink
I was just rereading the thread to make sure I didn't miss anything as I obviously didn't listen to people before all this and was wondering if everybody thought I should go ahead and install the top out spacers right away or wait? I'm guessing that if I'm already lifted about 2.5" in the rear that I will need something to level out the front.
What do you all think? As of now, no plans for an ARB/TJM in the near future...I've spent wwwaaayyy too much money already!
Fink
12-21-2005, 06:03 AM
#62
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Andy,
What the heck man?! The almighty "Tundra/OME Lift Dude" has completely missed my thread? I feel insulted! :cry:
I've already got OME 891's and OME N86 shocks in the rear so its all set.
Fink
BTW: I agree that the radiator brackets probably wouldn't be needed but Roger will take back any part not used minus the shipping charge so I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.
What the heck man?! The almighty "Tundra/OME Lift Dude" has completely missed my thread? I feel insulted! :cry:
I've already got OME 891's and OME N86 shocks in the rear so its all set.
Fink
BTW: I agree that the radiator brackets probably wouldn't be needed but Roger will take back any part not used minus the shipping charge so I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Last edited by Fink; 12-21-2005 at 06:05 AM.
12-21-2005, 06:17 AM
#63
you won't need the radiator brackets, but do what you want... 
yeah, i totally missed it.
anyway, you will probably want one spacer up front to start off with. you'll get about 1.75" out of the coils alone, and then another 1/2" out of the top out spacer for a 2.25" total, giving you an almost perfect stance.
now get some pics, dammit.
yeah, i totally missed it.
anyway, you will probably want one spacer up front to start off with. you'll get about 1.75" out of the coils alone, and then another 1/2" out of the top out spacer for a 2.25" total, giving you an almost perfect stance.
now get some pics, dammit.
12-21-2005, 06:27 AM
#64
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OK cool...I'll go with a spacer then and see how the stance is.
I'm getting ready to head to the alignment shop right now so I will snap some shots on my out and upload them later today.
Thanks for the help Andy!
I am planning on shipping out those centercaps to you on Tuesday or so next week, FYI.
Fink
I'm getting ready to head to the alignment shop right now so I will snap some shots on my out and upload them later today.
Thanks for the help Andy!
I am planning on shipping out those centercaps to you on Tuesday or so next week, FYI.
Fink
12-21-2005, 08:03 AM
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Yeah, a little bit too much...I can't wait to get all my stuff in for the new lift. Then I'll be all set and the Runner will be done....................for now
Fink
Fink
12-21-2005, 10:41 AM
#71
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LoL, thanks guys!
Already had 2 people ask me about it!
Other OEM rim is coming in tomorrow morning so I'll get that on. Now I'm trying to find a shop that can put the body lift on...or atleast let me use their lifts and tools...I have a buddy whose dad has a huge shop about 30 minutes but I can't get a hold of him.
How much would be a "resonable" price to get a body lift put on at a shop? I know, I know...I should do it myself but with the lack of tools and no garage space and the snow outside...not lookin like much fun!
Thanks again for the comps!
Fink
Already had 2 people ask me about it!
Other OEM rim is coming in tomorrow morning so I'll get that on. Now I'm trying to find a shop that can put the body lift on...or atleast let me use their lifts and tools...I have a buddy whose dad has a huge shop about 30 minutes but I can't get a hold of him.
How much would be a "resonable" price to get a body lift put on at a shop? I know, I know...I should do it myself but with the lack of tools and no garage space and the snow outside...not lookin like much fun!
Thanks again for the comps!
Fink
Last edited by Fink; 12-21-2005 at 10:45 AM.
12-21-2005, 11:29 AM
#72
it took me minimal tools (two ratchets and three sockets and of course the jack.) and i did it myslef in about 2.5 hours.
shop would probably charge 4 hours, and somewhere around $50 per hour for their time i imagine.
shop would probably charge 4 hours, and somewhere around $50 per hour for their time i imagine.
12-21-2005, 11:32 AM
#73
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Hmm...
Tempting, I guess I could leave my little space heater in the garage at my parents house overnight and do it that way.
I guess my only real concern is the steering shaft extension and the shift linkage, I have no idea how to do either of those...putting the blocks on is straight forward.
Fink
Tempting, I guess I could leave my little space heater in the garage at my parents house overnight and do it that way.
I guess my only real concern is the steering shaft extension and the shift linkage, I have no idea how to do either of those...putting the blocks on is straight forward.
Fink
12-21-2005, 11:37 AM
#74
for a 1", you don't need a shifter extension. if you do one, you screw the handle off the shifter, screw the extension on the sheft lever, then screw the handle on the extension.
for the steering spacer, you take off the nuts on the steering rag joint, then loosen the slip bolt on the shaft. do this BEFORE you do the BL. then after you get the BL on, you simply slip the upper part of the steering shaft up and away from the rag joint, slip the spacer in, then put the supplied bolts thru the holes and tighten them down and then tighten the upper slip bolt on the shaft again.
very easy to do.
for the steering spacer, you take off the nuts on the steering rag joint, then loosen the slip bolt on the shaft. do this BEFORE you do the BL. then after you get the BL on, you simply slip the upper part of the steering shaft up and away from the rag joint, slip the spacer in, then put the supplied bolts thru the holes and tighten them down and then tighten the upper slip bolt on the shaft again.
very easy to do.
12-21-2005, 11:40 AM
#75
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Might just have to give it a try next week then, I'll see if my dad or cousin are around for an extra pair of hands to help with the bumper and stuff.
Thanks for the help Andy,
Fink
Thanks for the help Andy,
Fink
12-21-2005, 11:49 AM
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My other concern is that I'm not sure I'll be able to get my jack high enough to lift the body off the frame. My jack pretty much bottoms out when lifting from the frame...I doubt it will go high enough to lift it from the ground, I guess I could use a bottle jack on a cement block or something.
Fink
Fink
12-21-2005, 12:04 PM
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Haha...when you say shop jack I'm assuming floor jack?
I tried that one time and it got a little scary when the jack started rolling as it got higher...I'll have to experiment with that some.
Sounds like overall I've got it all figured out then...I'll talk to my dad about it tonight and see when he'd be around to help me.
Thanks Andy, any more tips and tricks would be great!
Fink
I tried that one time and it got a little scary when the jack started rolling as it got higher...I'll have to experiment with that some.
Sounds like overall I've got it all figured out then...I'll talk to my dad about it tonight and see when he'd be around to help me.
Thanks Andy, any more tips and tricks would be great!
Fink
12-21-2005, 12:09 PM
#80
it was a big floor jack. i put the two cinder blocks next to each other, making a single pad. i put the floor jack body across the blocks so the wheels were hanging in the air and used that to lift the body. you only need to lift it maybe 1.5" for a 1" body lift, so get the jack as high as possible and then just barely lift. that will make for the most stable way to do it.
