New Lift Idea
#1
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New Lift Idea
Alright...after all of my CV problems and high-speed vibrations here is what I have decided to replace the front 3" Cornfed spacers with.
Toyota of Dallas(strap22):
Left Tundra coil - 48131-AF100
Right Tundra coil - 48131-AF090
OME N91S front struts
Sonoran Steel:
Diff drop
Panhard drop bracket
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Standard grade hardware
-Radiator bracket
-Front bumper bracket
-Shift lever extension
What do you all think? Got it all straight?
Anything extra I will need for the Tundra/OME setup in order to fit 285's comfortably?
I will have to live without the body lift for maybe 2 weeks at most until I can get time to put it on myself or have a shop do it. Will this be OK as long as I take it easy?
IF THERE IS ANYTHING I NEED TO KNOW BEFORE I DO THIS LIFT...PLEASE TELL ME NOW, I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE NO SURPRISES AFTER THIS IS INSTALLED.
Any input is needed!
Fink
Toyota of Dallas(strap22):
Left Tundra coil - 48131-AF100
Right Tundra coil - 48131-AF090
OME N91S front struts
Sonoran Steel:
Diff drop
Panhard drop bracket
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Standard grade hardware
-Radiator bracket
-Front bumper bracket
-Shift lever extension
What do you all think? Got it all straight?
Anything extra I will need for the Tundra/OME setup in order to fit 285's comfortably?
I will have to live without the body lift for maybe 2 weeks at most until I can get time to put it on myself or have a shop do it. Will this be OK as long as I take it easy?
IF THERE IS ANYTHING I NEED TO KNOW BEFORE I DO THIS LIFT...PLEASE TELL ME NOW, I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE NO SURPRISES AFTER THIS IS INSTALLED.
Any input is needed!
Fink
Last edited by Fink; 12-14-2005 at 10:52 PM.
#3
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Most definitely...I have lived on that thread for the past week or so...I am just making sure I have it all lined-out before I place the order.
I have searched...and searched...and searched...and searched some more...trust me!
Fink
I have searched...and searched...and searched...and searched some more...trust me!
Fink
#4
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Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
Alright...after all of my CV problems and high-speed vibrations here is what I have decided to replace the front 3" Cornfed spacers with.
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Standard grade hardware
-Radiator bracket
-Front bumper bracket
-Shift lever extension
What do you all think? Got it all straight?
IF THERE IS ANYTHING I NEED TO KNOW BEFORE I DO THIS LIFT...PLEASE TELL ME NOW, I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE NO SURPRISES AFTER THIS IS INSTALLED.
Any input is needed!
Fink
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Standard grade hardware
-Radiator bracket
-Front bumper bracket
-Shift lever extension
What do you all think? Got it all straight?
IF THERE IS ANYTHING I NEED TO KNOW BEFORE I DO THIS LIFT...PLEASE TELL ME NOW, I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE NO SURPRISES AFTER THIS IS INSTALLED.
Any input is needed!
Fink
#5
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i didn't need the radiator brackets on my 1" BL from 4Crawler. are you doing any top out spacers? you'll only get a inch and half from the springs up front and i'm pretty sure you're gonna need at least one of those topouts from Andy.
#6
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Does everyone with a 3rd gen have issues with the cornfed front spacers? I know Shotking is ripping through CV's faster than he rips through candy wrappers.
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#8
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Originally Posted by shotking4
he has 3" ones and Heath, you know how high my truck sits with the 2.5's. i don't have any CV vibrations with mine thank god.
#9
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a few things.
I would uprgade to the HD hardware.
If you don't have a local welder, get the replacement trac bar instead of the bracket
I did not need a radiator drop bracket for a 1" bl.
If you ever think oyu might run more than a 285, then think about 1.5"
I would uprgade to the HD hardware.
If you don't have a local welder, get the replacement trac bar instead of the bracket
I did not need a radiator drop bracket for a 1" bl.
If you ever think oyu might run more than a 285, then think about 1.5"
#10
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OK...I will upgrade to the HD hardware for the body lift as I was debating on that (do you mean oversize or just upgrade the grade of the hardware?). The biggest I would go as far as tires would be 305/75's and bama is clearing those with spacers so I guess a 1" would be fine...if not please let me know. I will go ahead and get the radiator drop bracket in case, so far with this whole lift thing I have run into some unexpected problems so I'm trying to go the safe route this time around.
Also, does everybody think I will need some topout spacers, I guess I probably would since the rear will be lifted 2.5" well, it will settle here soon so it may not quite 2.5" but close and then when I get the new coils and shocks put on the front will be at 1.5" not including body lift of course. So maybe I will go ahead and get 2 topout spacers that way I have them on hand but I will probably only use one of them as going any higher than 2" in front is scaring me because of all the CV problems I've been having. Where do I get the spacers from? Andy? Revtek directly?
By the way Filthy, thats a good point about the welding but I can weld pretty good so all I need to do is run up to my old highschool and pull my Runner in the shop and they said I can use their MIG.
So I guess now that means:
Toyota of Dallas(strap22):
Left Tundra coil - 48131-AF100
Right Tundra coil - 48131-AF090
OME N91S front struts
Sonoran Steel:
Diff drop
Panhard drop bracket
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Heavy Duty hardware
-Radiator bracket (may not be needed, but I'd rather have it on hand in case I do)
-Front bumper bracket
-Steering shaft extension
Andy? Revtek?:
2 sets of 3/8" top out spacer
Fink
BTW: Just checked my CV's again, the small end is not leaking anymore but I guess it's being forced out the big end now as I just left the stock clamps on there, unless it starts to leak really bad I'll just wait until I get the new lift components put on and replace the boots after thats all been lined out.
Also, does everybody think I will need some topout spacers, I guess I probably would since the rear will be lifted 2.5" well, it will settle here soon so it may not quite 2.5" but close and then when I get the new coils and shocks put on the front will be at 1.5" not including body lift of course. So maybe I will go ahead and get 2 topout spacers that way I have them on hand but I will probably only use one of them as going any higher than 2" in front is scaring me because of all the CV problems I've been having. Where do I get the spacers from? Andy? Revtek directly?
By the way Filthy, thats a good point about the welding but I can weld pretty good so all I need to do is run up to my old highschool and pull my Runner in the shop and they said I can use their MIG.
So I guess now that means:
Toyota of Dallas(strap22):
Left Tundra coil - 48131-AF100
Right Tundra coil - 48131-AF090
OME N91S front struts
Sonoran Steel:
Diff drop
Panhard drop bracket
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Heavy Duty hardware
-Radiator bracket (may not be needed, but I'd rather have it on hand in case I do)
-Front bumper bracket
-Steering shaft extension
Andy? Revtek?:
2 sets of 3/8" top out spacer
Fink
BTW: Just checked my CV's again, the small end is not leaking anymore but I guess it's being forced out the big end now as I just left the stock clamps on there, unless it starts to leak really bad I'll just wait until I get the new lift components put on and replace the boots after thats all been lined out.
Last edited by Fink; 12-15-2005 at 11:18 AM.
#11
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have you tried just replacing the clamps? Cuz the way I look at, your current setup is fine. I'm guessing you boot clamps are old and needs replacing or something. Get some hose clamps and call it a day.
btw vibrations still sounds like tires more so than lift. I suspect even if you do this swap you'll still get vibrations. if you're soo unsure, try going back to stock and see if the vibrations are still there.
btw vibrations still sounds like tires more so than lift. I suspect even if you do this swap you'll still get vibrations. if you're soo unsure, try going back to stock and see if the vibrations are still there.
#13
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Lance,
I have a hose clamp with some rubber sheeting as protection securing the small end of the boot and the big end is now leaking as I left the stock clamp on there.
I really doubt its the tires as it only did this after the lift went on and I have had it aligned and balanced 3 times since then...I could take it back to stock and drive it and see how that goes, but that might get a little complicated with the 2 sets of wheels/tires that I will have going on...the stock wheels with the street 265's and the Lexus wheels with the BFG 285's and I will also be having a shop do it as I don't have the garage space/tools/know-how to do it...I might be able to ask the shop to let me hold my wheels/tires there for a day or so while we do some tests.
Either way, I think in the end this will be an overall better setup and I am hoping it takes care of all or at least SOME of my problems with the CV's. The tech at the dealership said he would bet the angle of the CV's is what's causing the vibrations and he has never been wrong about a diagnosis so...I don't really know.
But as far as the list I have going now, what do you all think?
Fink
I have a hose clamp with some rubber sheeting as protection securing the small end of the boot and the big end is now leaking as I left the stock clamp on there.
I really doubt its the tires as it only did this after the lift went on and I have had it aligned and balanced 3 times since then...I could take it back to stock and drive it and see how that goes, but that might get a little complicated with the 2 sets of wheels/tires that I will have going on...the stock wheels with the street 265's and the Lexus wheels with the BFG 285's and I will also be having a shop do it as I don't have the garage space/tools/know-how to do it...I might be able to ask the shop to let me hold my wheels/tires there for a day or so while we do some tests.
Either way, I think in the end this will be an overall better setup and I am hoping it takes care of all or at least SOME of my problems with the CV's. The tech at the dealership said he would bet the angle of the CV's is what's causing the vibrations and he has never been wrong about a diagnosis so...I don't really know.
But as far as the list I have going now, what do you all think?
Fink
#14
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OK...just got a PM back from Andy, he has the spacers in stock and ready to ship...he said with the Tundra coils/OME shocks I will be getting 1.75" of lift and he said with one spacer I will get between 2.00" and 2.25" so I will get ONE set of spacers from him which I will order later this afternoon.
So far here is the updated order:
Toyota of Dallas(strap22):
Left Tundra coil - 48131-AF100
Right Tundra coil - 48131-AF090
OME N91S front struts
Sonoran Steel:
Diff drop
Localmotion:
Sonoran Steel Panhard drop bracket
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Heavy Duty hardware
-Radiator bracket (may not be needed, but I'd rather have it on hand in case I do)
-Front bumper bracket
-Steering shaft extension
Andy(4rnr.net):
1 set of top out spacers and extended studs
Anything else I should add? I would like to get this stuff ordered today but I may wait til tomorrow as I want to be sure I hear from EVERYBODY to make sure I've got this figured out.
Thanks!
Fink
So far here is the updated order:
Toyota of Dallas(strap22):
Left Tundra coil - 48131-AF100
Right Tundra coil - 48131-AF090
OME N91S front struts
Sonoran Steel:
Diff drop
Localmotion:
Sonoran Steel Panhard drop bracket
Roger Brown (4Crawler):
1” 4Crawler Body Lift
-Ultimate lift blocks
-Heavy Duty hardware
-Radiator bracket (may not be needed, but I'd rather have it on hand in case I do)
-Front bumper bracket
-Steering shaft extension
Andy(4rnr.net):
1 set of top out spacers and extended studs
Anything else I should add? I would like to get this stuff ordered today but I may wait til tomorrow as I want to be sure I hear from EVERYBODY to make sure I've got this figured out.
Thanks!
Fink
Last edited by Fink; 12-15-2005 at 12:45 PM.
#17
Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
Hey man, might wanna clear out your Inbox, I just tried to send you a message and it said you need to clear some space.
Fink
Fink
At this rate, you mind as well start pricing out SAS...LOL jk
#18
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Just called Toyota of Dallas...they've got the coils and shocks in stock and ready to ship out by tomorrow...shipping will be $18.
I think I'm gonna go ahead and order em because the shocks usually have to come out of Washington and the shipping is outrageous!
I figure either way I'll need the coils and shocks anyway...no reason not to.
Last minute thoughts/concerns on the coils and shocks??
Fink
I think I'm gonna go ahead and order em because the shocks usually have to come out of Washington and the shipping is outrageous!
I figure either way I'll need the coils and shocks anyway...no reason not to.
Last minute thoughts/concerns on the coils and shocks??
Fink
#19
Might want to consider buying 2 pairs of top outs....if you plan on getting an arb or TJM.
P.S. did u get the upgraded hardware from 4crawler?
P.S. did u get the upgraded hardware from 4crawler?
Last edited by Localmotion; 12-15-2005 at 01:11 PM.
#20
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Nothing has been ordered yet...the only thing I am 100% positive on getting so far are the coils and shocks. As far as the top out spacers I think as of now I'll only need one because I don't have any plans for an ARB or TJM quite yet...all this cash being thrown around already is starting to scare me and my bank account hasn't quite caught up with me yet, lol.
But yes, I plan on getting the Heavy Dute grade hardware from 4crawler...on his site it said something about having to redrill the holes or something? Or is that only with the oversized hardware?
Fink
But yes, I plan on getting the Heavy Dute grade hardware from 4crawler...on his site it said something about having to redrill the holes or something? Or is that only with the oversized hardware?
Fink