New Idler Arm Assembly - Was I taken?
#1
New Idler Arm Assembly - Was I taken?
Well, I was at a shop getting my wheels balanced yesterday. They had my rig on a lift and called me out. They showed me that my idler was shot. Moved the wheel and the thing was all over the place in the housing.
$160 for the idler, $70 labor to install.
I got the old one back to rebuild it so I have a spare.
Do the idler arm braces do anything to extend the life of these units? This is the third one on my rig (this last one lived for 5 years).
$160 for the idler, $70 labor to install.
I got the old one back to rebuild it so I have a spare.
Do the idler arm braces do anything to extend the life of these units? This is the third one on my rig (this last one lived for 5 years).
#2
Methinks you were!
I ordered a new aftermarket idler arm for my 2nd gen from BB autoparts in NY and it cost $74 + pp. Havn't recieved it yet. If the arm was wobbling around in the housing was it not just the bushings. My ball joint was gone from 2 years of 5 day a week offroading,so i had to get a new one. Heres the link
http://autopartstreet.com
I ordered a new aftermarket idler arm for my 2nd gen from BB autoparts in NY and it cost $74 + pp. Havn't recieved it yet. If the arm was wobbling around in the housing was it not just the bushings. My ball joint was gone from 2 years of 5 day a week offroading,so i had to get a new one. Heres the link
http://autopartstreet.com
#3
I don't really think you were taken. Parts you buy from a shop are usually sold at full "list" price. Parts you buy yourself at an auto parts store ate usually sold at a discounted "user" price. There is also a variation of qualities and prices. Napa-online shows a user price of $135 (and has a lifetime guarantee!!!!). I could see it's list price being $170 at a shop. Shops do make a profit on parts. I would also think $70 labor is about an hours rate at most places.
Is the new one greasable?? Make sure it is done reularly if it is (before & after wheeling give it a shot....real important if water involved
How is the pitman arm? It is at the steering box. I would think if 3 idlers had gone bad, the pitman may be worn too. Have the truck running and have someone move the steering back and forth about 10". If you can see the pitman knuckle move any sideways or up and down I would repace it too. It is the only thing holding your steering linkage to the steering box.
The parts shown on the above listed web site are TRW and Moog, both respected names in the industry. I do wonder about the TRW showing the same part # for 2 and 4 wheel drive.
Is the new one greasable?? Make sure it is done reularly if it is (before & after wheeling give it a shot....real important if water involved
How is the pitman arm? It is at the steering box. I would think if 3 idlers had gone bad, the pitman may be worn too. Have the truck running and have someone move the steering back and forth about 10". If you can see the pitman knuckle move any sideways or up and down I would repace it too. It is the only thing holding your steering linkage to the steering box.
The parts shown on the above listed web site are TRW and Moog, both respected names in the industry. I do wonder about the TRW showing the same part # for 2 and 4 wheel drive.
Last edited by Yoda; 04-10-2003 at 08:08 AM.
#5
Originally posted by surlynkid
ummmmmm......you can rebuild these for less than $10 in parts, so i'd say they hosed you. once it is off the truck (needed to put a new one on), you can rebuild it in 30 minutes.
ummmmmm......you can rebuild these for less than $10 in parts, so i'd say they hosed you. once it is off the truck (needed to put a new one on), you can rebuild it in 30 minutes.
#6
Originally posted by Churnd
Yep, me and Jroc from the 4x4wire board rebuilt mine this past weekend. It was so easy it's a joke. I don't understand why my mechanic wanted to replace the whole thing. About $8 in parts, a torque wrench, and a ball joint puller is all you'd need.
Yep, me and Jroc from the 4x4wire board rebuilt mine this past weekend. It was so easy it's a joke. I don't understand why my mechanic wanted to replace the whole thing. About $8 in parts, a torque wrench, and a ball joint puller is all you'd need.
#7
Originally posted by surlynkid
jroc did work on your truck??
jroc did work on your truck??
did he finish the job or start puking halfway through?
i heard he is gay. is there any truth to that?
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#8
Originally posted by Churnd
He told me about that, the clutch job that he drove to your place in TX for. That was pretty funny.
He told me about that, the clutch job that he drove to your place in TX for. That was pretty funny.
#10
it's the arm you use to reach into your hood to adjust your idle. bwahahaha.
okay, it is a pivot point for your tie rods and stuff. look behind your passenger side front tire. it is mounted to teh frame.
okay, it is a pivot point for your tie rods and stuff. look behind your passenger side front tire. it is mounted to teh frame.
#11
Idler Arm:
I'm trying to get in touch with him through email because I need to do the exact same thing on my truck with the brakes, rotors, and wheel bearings. They've all gotta be replaced. But he aint writing me back. Maybe he's still pissed off from helping me do the fuel filter and getting gas all over his shirt.
yup, we did his front brakes and packed his bearings while he slept. i have to rebuild the idler on my 88 runner. i just got the parts in the other day. it was about $7-8. two bushings and the rubber seal.
#12
Originally posted by Yoda
How is the pitman arm? It is at the steering box. I would think if 3 idlers had gone bad, the pitman may be worn too. Have the truck running and have someone move the steering back and forth about 10". If you can see the pitman knuckle move any sideways or up and down I would repace it too. It is the only thing holding your steering linkage to the steering box.
How is the pitman arm? It is at the steering box. I would think if 3 idlers had gone bad, the pitman may be worn too. Have the truck running and have someone move the steering back and forth about 10". If you can see the pitman knuckle move any sideways or up and down I would repace it too. It is the only thing holding your steering linkage to the steering box.
I'll snap a pick of my spent one and the shiney new one...
Alignment tomorrow, my steering wheel is at a 45deg. angle. $46+tax - had been quoted as much as $60.
#13
Just to be a parts whore.. I have one I took off my truck that just needs bushings.. I replaced it a year or two ago and all it needs is bushings.. The ball socket is so tight it is very hard to not being able to move by hand.. I have it for sale and someday will put new bushings into it and clean it up for re-sale.. Let me know if someone needs a really good one.
$50 cleaned up, painted & new bushings installed (well, after I do it..)
( I should of checked it before I special orderd a new Moog one.. Damn alingment shop.. "No, it's not the bushings.. the ball socket is all worn.. Morons..)
PS, yes the Moog arm is greasable.. And here is another tip, Energy Suspension sells new replacement polyureathane tie rod boots that will work perfect to replace the damaged rubber boot..
This is the new Moog arm..
$50 cleaned up, painted & new bushings installed (well, after I do it..)
( I should of checked it before I special orderd a new Moog one.. Damn alingment shop.. "No, it's not the bushings.. the ball socket is all worn.. Morons..)
PS, yes the Moog arm is greasable.. And here is another tip, Energy Suspension sells new replacement polyureathane tie rod boots that will work perfect to replace the damaged rubber boot..
This is the new Moog arm..
Last edited by Firefyter-Emt; 04-10-2003 at 09:30 PM.
#14
Here is the info from the web site: (www.napaonline.com)
The NCP before the part # is for Napa Chassis Part
NAPA Chassis Parts Idler Arm Assy
Click on image to see enlarged view
Front Item#: NCP2683702
Price: $ 134.00
tax and shipping not included
Usually ships in 24 hours.
Attributes:
Attributes: Idler Arm Assy
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Add to Cart
Return to Previous Page
New Search
There is no Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) available for this Product
The NCP before the part # is for Napa Chassis Part
NAPA Chassis Parts Idler Arm Assy
Click on image to see enlarged view
Front Item#: NCP2683702
Price: $ 134.00
tax and shipping not included
Usually ships in 24 hours.
Attributes:
Attributes: Idler Arm Assy
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Add to Cart
Return to Previous Page
New Search
There is no Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) available for this Product
#15
why are you guys still running around talking about buying these things from napa or anywhere else? you replace the two bushing, the rubber seal on the bottom, and use a new OEM locknut. grand total is $10 and takes 30 minutes to fix.
the hardest part is just driving the ball joint off.
the hardest part is just driving the ball joint off.
#16
Originally posted by surlynkid
ummmmmm......you can rebuild these for less than $10 in parts, so i'd say they hosed you. once it is off the truck (needed to put a new one on), you can rebuild it in 30 minutes.
ummmmmm......you can rebuild these for less than $10 in parts, so i'd say they hosed you. once it is off the truck (needed to put a new one on), you can rebuild it in 30 minutes.
Oh, and if you're just replacing the bushings don't bother with seperating the ball joint. Just unbolt the body from the frame and slide it up and off.
#17
Originally posted by Shane
Ya, if it's only worn bushings but you can't rebuild it if the shaft is bent. I've bent a couple of them already and the one that's on there right now is starting to look a little tweaked. Stupid IFS.
Oh, and if you're just replacing the bushings don't bother with seperating the ball joint. Just unbolt the body from the frame and slide it up and off.
Ya, if it's only worn bushings but you can't rebuild it if the shaft is bent. I've bent a couple of them already and the one that's on there right now is starting to look a little tweaked. Stupid IFS.
Oh, and if you're just replacing the bushings don't bother with seperating the ball joint. Just unbolt the body from the frame and slide it up and off.
#19
Originally posted by Shane
So is an SAS!
So is an SAS!
#20
Originally posted by surlynkid
yup. i am in the middle of rebuilding my 44 for the T100 and will then SAS the runner for my girlfriend to drive. we will wheel them both. she wants something smaller than the T100, but she loves to be in the driver's seat.
yup. i am in the middle of rebuilding my 44 for the T100 and will then SAS the runner for my girlfriend to drive. we will wheel them both. she wants something smaller than the T100, but she loves to be in the driver's seat.
Yes folks that's right, IT'S JROC, everything is now going to hell!:pat:
Get the bushing take about 30 mins and fix the one you have........if it's bent go get one off a junked one at the bone yard........put bushings in that one and be doen with it....easy cheap fix.
BTW Surlyn is the fag! He drinks expensive wine, smokes expensive cigars BUT eats like a 10 year old!!!!! He's a horrible date!!!!! Hmmmm so a dentist told me!