ok, so I bought the 2nd gen in 2001, had a HG go out the following year(just out of warranty and had already been done on the previous rebuilt motor, so no luck form Toyota) and had a great motor shop put in a premium long block rebuilt with a little tweaking (oversize pistons, .40 over stock) installed October 2003.

I get a clunky sound the last wek or so under load and take it to my general mechanic, and he's not sure, but thinks its a wrist pin starting to go. wants me to take it and diagnose it by someone who really knows engines, so I take it back to the place that built/installed it and guess what, yup it's a wrist pin starting to go and I should leave it so they can tear into it.

Good news is the engine itself is under warranty, the labor isn't. This had a 24 mo. 24k warranty and I'm over on the mileage, but I bs'd with the boss for about 30 mins and they'll pull it and install a "new" rebuild, everything included for $1100. it's under their normal shop rate so he says, but the original install was around $3300 IIRC. so I'm inclined to belive I'm getting a good deal.

My question is when do I stop putting engines into this thing? we owe a couple mos. more on it, but I've done alot of additions myself, and I really like the truck. see my sig, but also includes 150 amp alternator, and other goodies.

I know there's always the Ford or chevy swap, but I cant afford to engineer something at this point and "hope it all works out."

Also I am fairly mechanically capable, but dont feel comfortable pulling it myself. I think it's my best option to have them do it and I'll have a new motor and another warranty. I've been happy with the motor overall, and I like the place I got it from. The original reason I went with them is that they supplied the engines for every other place I had checked into originally.

While I'm at it do I need to add headers and a small BL? I have heard yes and no. I really would be stretching it to try and get all of these parts quickly and with the $$ at hand. My gut says no, but my wife is like "what ANOTHER engine??"

I'm trying to look at the bright side though, I had 2 freelance jobs recently that I'm awaiting payment for so that's extra cash. and guess what? put together, they total $1100.00 to the dime.

ironic?

any feedback is appreciated.

Mike

 

Are you expecting factory reliability from grease monkeys?

 

Yes....Do headers if you have the money for them they are a big improve ment, and if you put in a body lift you'll have a lot easier time sliding them in...plus then you can run bigger tires

 

I guess what I'm asking is can I expect more of this........engines and whatnot. I belive this is the 4th engine in this truck incl. the original.

I got it with a new rebuild, then I did one and now this one.

just trying not to get swallowed up is all.

Mike

 

The truck is cursed. You can expect any further engines put in it to die.
It is not related at all to who does the rebuild or puts it in. It is cursed.

 

great. Do I need a young priest and an old priest?

 

3.4 swap!

 

 

i just had my engine replaced on my 93 4runner and i hope/pray/wish i dont have to do that again in the near future even with the 5 year/unlimited warranty on it.

 

photomike72, It seems to me you've just had bad luck. If your rebuilt engine was done properly theres no reason why it should have gone out so quickly. My 3.0 (original) is still running strong at 170,000 miles.
Id second guess the shop you took it to or at least find out directly from the guy that rebuilt it why he thinks the wrist pin is going bad cause you might be surprised by what answer you get.
You said you really like the truck and your getting the exact amount for the rebuild...well, id call that 'remarkable destiny between you and the 4Runner'. Theres no backing out now. It was obviously meant to be. A match made in heaven. Go for it and keep her runnin'.

 

I agree with Rocket, but for different reasons. If you buy a new truck, trade in the 4Runner, you're going to be back into years of payments. Most of our friends pay over $500 per month. You could afford a few more engines with that kind of dough.

Money doesn't do you any good if it leaves your pocket as soon as you get it.

Keep it, keep it running, and you'll also be able to laugh at all the guys with new SUV's and trucks at the gas pump. They have to buy the gas and make the payments. You just have to buy the gas and save your money.

 

Right on guys. thanks for the replies.

I did ask about the wrist pin and it was one of 2 things. Bad part originally or detonation because of differences in gas in that cylinder causing excessive force and the weakest thing is starting to go.

I always buy mid-grade at the least even though it is from differnt places.

Im also thinking that it may be that I had OS pistons and slightly bored block to increase the performance. It was .40 over. could that be a factor? I was thinking about doing the same again as I liked the pickup it had, but not if I have to keep doing this.

appreciate the help,
Mike

 

another thing it could be is piston slap. .40 over seems like alot to take a 3.0 block any reason why you went .40?

 

Well, when I had the work done in 2003, the guy guaranteed the engine would be in spec. I was out of town while they put the new in, but he called to tell me that they didnt have any blocks that were within the .20 over (which he told me that it would be within)and I could wait until they had a blcok but didnt know when it would be, or he had some .30's but couldn't get pistons for, but he could do one that was .40 over and could get pistons to match.

They told me there would be some porformance gain, with some extra heat possible, but I felt it was within my cooling system range and had them do it that way. I have never gotten over half on my temp gauge, and plan on doing the taurus fan mod as soon as I can get around to it so I thought it would be worth it. The engine shop rep didnt seem to think it would be a problem either.

I never dyno'd it, but I did have more power especially after the intake silencer removal mod.

maybe that was it. dunno, just want to cut down on my odds of doing this again unless I can slap in the Lexus V8 or maybe find a diesel that would work. That's along way away and I really dont know if I would ever really be ready for a swap unless I knew the $$ up front and could justify it. I have a hard time with all of the extra engineering that goes into the swaps I've seen here and elsewhere. I dont have the time or the cash to play like that. I'm not knocking anyone that's done it, I just dont think it's for me although the next one may have to be that way whether I want to or not

Mike

 

What they don't last?

 

Well, if it is detonation and you are on your 4th motor, you might want to think about eliminating potential root causes at the macro level. For example, could there be an inherent fuel starvation problem? Maybe the fuel pump is shot and after enough WOT jaunts your motor(s) grenade? How about the fuel filter? See where I am going with this?

 

yeah, but the motor was running fine. no lights, no codes.

I put a new fuel filter in 1.5 yr ago and the HG going out was my first motor going out. that being said, we made it back from the Gulf Coast to Dallas on a motor with a bad HG, not bad in my opinion. Any other motor wouldve been toast.

I dk waht else to look at other than what was suggested.


any other tips?

Mike

 

a cost effective and fairly easy swap would be to swap in the 3rz. If you can fix the engine sell it and your tranny, you won't be out much.

 

I did a search. I dont think anyone has done this.......

I guess I'm going to wait on a swap. There's too much involved. Until someone comes out with a kit...