95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

new 110v outlet mod

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Old 06-03-2003 | 02:00 AM
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ByThaBay's Avatar
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From: San Francisco
Thumbs up new 110v outlet mod

Well for some time now I have been looking for a good write-up on how to install a standard household outlet into my 93' pickup. Unfortunatley, the best thing i was able to find was

https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...110v/corey.htm

Unsatisfied with this, i have come up with a great way to install a custom looking outlet right in my truck!

I just did the mod and I am very pleased with it. Although I don't have any pictures yet, I will post more detailed instructions on a website later.

Parts you will need:

toyota fog light switch, about $13 @ the stealership

some male/female crimps for cables to plug into various things... @ radioshack you can get a whole kit for about $6

30amp relay... standard automotive type from radioshack for $5

a heavy duty grounded extension cable

a standard household outlet from home depot (any color you want)

2 washers to fit outlet screws for less than $0.50 at your local hardware store

some additional 12 guage wire $5 from radioshack

electrical tape ... i used an assortment from radio shack to color code everything .. i think it was $5

some tubing to protect your cables from heat @ radioshack $5

twisty ties (any harware store) $3

an a 110v similar to one used in

https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...110v/corey.htm

so what you want to do is:

UNDER HOOD
---------------
unplug positive, red, battery cable!

attach 110v or similar converter, using twisty ties or other prefered method, to a black plastic piece around the area of battery.. a little closer to the firewall... it is a black plastic piece which is right over the wheel well it seems with vaccum hoses around that area too and charcoal canister ( i think that's what it's called) so just find a good place to put it

attach relay using either screw or twisty tie to inner part of left engine compartment wall

using male/female crimpers and 12guage wire:

connect positive from converter to 12v out of relay
connect negative from converter to some ground
connect ground of relay to some ground
connect 12v in of relay to positive battery clamp (which should be disconnected right now)
connect long wire to switch connector of relay, as this will go through the firewall and into the cabin

cut off female end of heavy duty grounded extension cable and figure out which wire lead to which hole by using a multimeter, this will help in connecting the outlets later..

next, plug in the male part into your 110v unit, and along with the remote cable, make an incision in one of the rubber plugs in the firewall and move these two wires through until they hook up to somewhere on your dash where you will place your fog light switch (to be used to turn on and off this device)

the remote should go to the fog light switch, but the severed end of the extension cable should go where you want to mount your outlet. keep in mind also that you need to run some wires (positive and ground) to light the led on the power switch, u can do this in any way you wish)

now on to the insides:

I wanted to do passenger's side kickpanel first, but there is a computer there... so i chose center console right under the ash tray, it fits perfectly there, and enough clearance and everything!

i placed the outlet on the back of this plastic piece under the ashtray, and traced it with a pencil. Then, i took and xacto knife and cut out the shape, then i slid in the outlet into the new hole and there yah go! but now i needed to secure it so i took the pencil again and dotted two little holes and then drilled those just big enough for the screws to fit in to hold the outlet steady during use. Then i connected the severed cables to the appropriate terminals of the outlet and secured everything

finally, hook back up the positive, red, battery cable, switch on your power inverter/converter device, and use the switch inside to give your new socket life!

ofcourse i probably forgot to say somet things but this is the general idea if anyone wants to do this mod; i love it!!!







Also, if you can't find the right color, here are some tips on painting!

http://www.techtv.com/callforhelp/fe...375489,00.html

Last edited by ByThaBay; 06-03-2003 at 09:56 AM.
Old 06-03-2003 | 06:01 AM
  #2  
jalaber's Avatar
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Pics?
Old 06-03-2003 | 09:18 AM
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yeah pix would be great so we can see for ourselves b4 we try it out!

also pix helps w/ the visual oooo, aaa stuff! hehe
Old 06-03-2003 | 09:40 AM
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why there are no pics yet

I don't have pics yet becuase i am not at home; i'm visiting GF's house (this is also where I did the mod) and she doesn't have a digital. I don't have one either, but as soon as I get home this week, I'll either take some pictures using a disposable and scan them or I'll borrow a friend's digital.

Believe me, it looks awesome!

I promise I'll find some way to get 'em up, I'll have a webpage just dedicated to it too
Old 06-03-2003 | 11:52 AM
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I see a couple potentially dangerous problems with this setup:

First off, you attached the inverter directly to the battery, in the engine compartment. These devices are not designed for that location, and cannot get wet! They're supposed to be inside the car for a reason.

Second, you need to put a fuse on the supply cable going to the inverter, as close to the battery as possible, or you risk starting a fire if something goes wrong (like the inverter gets wet and shorts out)...

Keep the outlet where it is, but move that thing inside the cabin somewhere (as close to the batt as possible) and fuse it...
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:22 PM
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I agree. I have my 800W continuous/1100W peak inverter mounted on the floor behind my passenger seat with a 4 ga fused cable going to the battery. I have an outdoor type covered outlet box in the bed connected with an appliance cord to one of the outlets on the inverter. It has gotten wet outside, but the inverter itself stays warm and dry.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:48 PM
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Denver,

Boy, you must've read that really carefully...was too long for me.

But yeah, you're 100% right. Needs a fuse off the battery and the inverter needs to be inside. I feel like a parrot, but what you said definitely needed to be said again.

I'm about to do this mod as soon as I get some parts in and my set up is going to be very close to (w/ the exception of parts) to Corey's.

However, one thing Corey did miss was that his fused distribution box does not have the Corey Cable shine. I think the ol' man is slacking off these days.

Bob
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:53 PM
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Originally posted by Bob_98SR5

However, one thing Corey did miss was that his fused distribution box does not have the Corey Cable shine. I think the ol' man is slacking off these days.

Bob
Old 06-03-2003 | 06:09 PM
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From: San Francisco
okay guys...

all very good points, however, here is why i did what i did...

the inverter that i am using has a built in 30amp fuse.. i took it apart a few times and it is well enough designed to prevent "accidents"

also, since i do not have pictures, i can't show you guys where the inverter actually lies within the engine comparment... if you were to check it out, you would see that there would be no way for water to get up there.

Ofcourse i don't do any off-roading, i usually stay on the road, so for off-roading you could just add some kind of housing to protect it... although i highly doubt it would get wet where it is.. but nothing is impossible.

so make sure that you either have a fuse or that your inverter is already fused to being with

Old 06-03-2003 | 08:16 PM
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My inverter has a cooling fan and that would let water in it if it was mounted under the hood.
Old 06-03-2003 | 08:53 PM
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mine also has a cooling fan, however, radio shack has an assortment of project enclosures ... you could get one to enclose the entire fan/inverter assembly.. you could also add an additional cooling fan for the encosure if you really want it to keep it cool. :pig:
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