Comments/suggestions please.

My 3VZE isn't doing so well. I could go with a 5VZE, but the more I think about it, I'd be spending $3,000 and I'd have an engine with an unknown history. That's what I'm trying to get away from.

So here's an idea I'm playing with.

DOA head bolts.
Copper or other metallic HG material that will hold up to higher compression.
Dished pistons to lower compression.
Overbore the engine.
Aftermarket cams.
Upgrade the fuel system.
New exhaust.
Turbo.
Intercooler.

I figure if I keep the boost reasonable, I will have a dependable engine with more power than a 5VZE swap. And since I'd be rebuilding my current engine, everything would be fresh and "like new". I wouldn't have to worry about the condition of the engine. My only worry would be that I don't get the "boost bug".

What are your thoughts? Using dished pistons, metal HG and DOA headbolts should solve the HG problem.

Oh, and please don't just say "don't waste your time, do the 5VZE swap instead" etc. Please give me valid arguments for why.

 

I kind of like this as an alternative to the 5VZE swap, but there are some issues:

1) Cost. What do you expect to spend on the engine rebuild + turbo system?

2) What are you going to do for engine management? There will be added fuel requirements once you apply the boost.

3) What turbo(s) would you use? Single or dual?

This is just the tip of the iceberg. There are a lot more questions I'm sure...
-Mark

 

I'm thinking of either a T25 or T3 turbo(single turbo). Something small so it spools up quickly for low end power. I wouldn't need too much boost and the limits of either would be more than I'd need.

Fuel management is something I'm going to look into.

Cost... I'd like to keep it under $3,000. Which I think is atainable.

 

There was a thread a while back about crappy work on the DOA headbolts. You might want to look for it.

 

Forget the head bolts and get a set of ARP studs. That's about all I can offer for a 3.0, don't know what's available or what's been done to them.

 

Why are you chosing to turbocharge instead of supercharge? Not that either one is better than the other, but im curious to know why you chose your route.


btw, I though you said you were gonna sell the truck. I hope you changed your mind

 

I'm going the route of a Turbo do to cost. Turbos are very easy to come by.

I was going to sell it... before the engine crapped out. There is no way I can get enough $$ from my truck to buy the car I want. I'm better off fixing up the truck and keeping it for a very long time.

 

Umm, no offense, but overboring raises compression, if you're trying to lower compression that's not your best route.

 

Overboring does not neccesarily raise compression.

 

It changes the displacement. Compression is a ratio of the volume of air when the piston is at it's lowest point to the volume of air when the piston is at it's highest point. That's how you get 7.5:1 for example. 7.5cc(I have no idea the true units of measure) at the lowest point to 1cc at the highest point. Overboring changes both numbers, so does dishing the pistons. For example, dished pistons alone would change a 7.5:1 ratio to something like 7.6:1.1 . You went from trying to compress 7.5 units into 1 unit, to compression 7.6 units into 1.1 unit. Hopefully that is enough of an explanation. I did a lot of research on turbos when I had my 300ZX. I had an NA and wanted to turbocharge so I did tons of research. That's the only reason I feel confident in turbocharging the 3VZE. I know what is needed to lower compression enough to turbocharge safely.

 

Of course it changes displacement, but any change in displacement affects compression. Everything I've read says that overboring will raise compression, I could work out the math, but honestly I don't feel like it. Just giving you a word of caution since the 3vz is prone to blow, trust me I know, and you're trying to lower compression.

 

what exactly is prone to blow on the 3vze??

I've been trying to figure this out for a while now and no one seems to have any decent answers to the question....

Whilst on the topid of block rebuilding what kinda quench distance does the factory setup on the 3vze have?

 

That's why I'd be dishing the pistons, using a stronger HG material, and the better HG bolts. I could theoretically overbore and dish, and end up with a slightly lower compression.

 

What I've heard is that the way the headgasket is designed they made a certain part too thin so theres not enough thickness between openings (can't remember exactly which). So that parts blows first then the rest goes.

 

I thought it was the types of metals the engine block and head were made out of... I don't really know SOME engine terminology, but, I thought that when the block(? is it the block?) and the head got hot, one of the two expanded faster due to a difference in metal composition, thus kind of wearing the HG faster than if the block and head were to expand at the same time... now, it could've just been the stock HG's... I'll just stop... I don't want to look TOO stupid...

 

The 88 and 89 3.0's didn't have any problems, and neither did a lot of the later ones. The factory guy I talked to said it was the head gaskets used in a particular factory that was the culprit.
That said, I've heard of cammed and ported 3.0's with headers running quite nicely, powerfully and reliably. With the proper hardware, you shouldn't have any problems, I would think. A couple of piggy back computers out there can handle fuel and spark issues, as long as you can send it a boost signal. Do similar stuff as the kit for supercharged 3.4's, like injectors and fuel pump. If you do the labor yourself, and only pay for parts and machining, you could do it. Heck a fully rebuilt engine only goes for 1700 or so, which leaves you 1300 for add-ons. More if you do it yourself. Source your turbo from a Ford Thunderbird coupe at the wreckers or something(they are about T3 or equivelant, I think) and pull a intercooler off of a turbo diesel or something if you can find one, and your mostly there.

 

wastegate
blow off valve
boost controller
piping
fuel controller
ignition with retard
tranny mods to handle power
turbo timer??
oil cooler??

 

I thought the same as you.
DOA suckered me into buying their junk.
After the horrible way Tim treated me I can tell you that you are far better off going elsewhere.

At the $6000 mark all I had was a pile of junk. Took another $4000 just to get something runnable.

So today, I have a $10,000 motor that's maybe 10% stronger than stock (according to a dyno.)

WTF are we thinking dealing with a company named: Dead On Arrivial?
Pretty much predicted my experience.

 

My experience with my 3VZE:

1st engine died @ 269,000 miles. Bought a Remanufactured ATK brand 3VZE. It has a chronic low oil pressure problem. ATK won't stand up for it. ATK sucks!!!!
My engine now has 30,000 miles with the low oil pressure problem, it could die tomorrow or it could die 5 years from now, Who knows???

I would never buy from ATK!

I would highly recomend going diesel. With the price of gas only getting worse,
You could get a "1/2 cut" from Japan for cheap.

I could go on & on...

Check out Toyotadieselmadness.com

I would go with the toyota 1KZ-t or thr 1KZ-TE engine especially for 4X4ing!

Best of luck.

 

I tihnk everyone knows my story from DOA a while back. DO NOT GET THE STUDS. They are crap. My 2 cents.