need a knock sensor
#1
need a knock sensor
any good websites to order a knock sensor?? My truck flashes code 52. It idles at 2400 on cold cold mornings and about 1500 after initial start-up when it's 65+ outside. Is the knock sensor making it idle that high?? Any help is appreciated. Thanks everyone!!
#2
Check the wire that goes to it first, especially the plug end of the wire that actually plugs into the sensor.
Knock sensors are expensive little buggers so you dont want to buy one if you dont have too.
Knock sensors are expensive little buggers so you dont want to buy one if you dont have too.
#3
If it's on the truck in your sig 3.0L...It's under the intake. Lots of work to replace it.
On my '92 22RE , I had a code for the knock sensor, and replaced mine. It was on the outside of the block thou. On mine it did NOT effect the idle, but had no balls until I replaced it.
On my '92 22RE , I had a code for the knock sensor, and replaced mine. It was on the outside of the block thou. On mine it did NOT effect the idle, but had no balls until I replaced it.
#5
yes, the knock sensor is in the engine vally under both the upper and lower intakes....MAJOR PITA to get to. You'll have to remove one idler from the timing belt to pull the lower air intake...
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#9
Hey! Your knock sensor wire runs up in a notch between the head and intake manifold. If you look at your wiring harness right below and slightly to the rear of the throttle body you should see the wire coming out and connecting to the wiring harness.
I would probably just buy the sensor at the dealership. Back when I did my sensor, I checked Advanced, Auto Zone, Pep Boys and NAPA. Only place that had it was Pep Boys. I bought it there and found out after I had it in that the price at the dealership was about the same.
It is a major pain to do, but I did it with the great help of a friend and the awesome folks on this board. I had never done anything but an oil change before doing this, so it really isn't that bad.
Well, hope that helps.
Have fun all.
Daniel
I would probably just buy the sensor at the dealership. Back when I did my sensor, I checked Advanced, Auto Zone, Pep Boys and NAPA. Only place that had it was Pep Boys. I bought it there and found out after I had it in that the price at the dealership was about the same.
It is a major pain to do, but I did it with the great help of a friend and the awesome folks on this board. I had never done anything but an oil change before doing this, so it really isn't that bad.
Well, hope that helps.
Have fun all.
Daniel
#10
that would explain my problem....if the knock sensor is by the timing belt top idler...my idler is making some noise and has been for about 3 months now. so now my idler is bad and rattling then that probably throws a knock sensor signal back to the ecu then retards my timing making my truck retarded for a few minutes...then back to normal. here all this time i thought it might have been the IACV making it run funky. reason being...i got out the other day when it was pinging and backed the timing off a little then it started running fine. every now and then it would start to act up....then it would stop. i know a guy that said if i bought the idler and belt he would change it for $100 for me and this guy has plennnnnnnty of experience on yotas. guess i finally found some reasoning to this misfiring madness!
#11
So, nobody really answered his main question, which is the same question I had posted a couple days ago... Will the bad Knock Sensor make your crap run rough?? I've checked my timing 3 times, looks good, but when I rev the engine or start to go, it runs real rough & misfires once or twice. Is that a cause of a bad knock sensor? I'm also getting a code 52. Going to replace the stupid f'n thing this weekend anyway.
#17
#19
Never tried this, but was told buy a VW Tech. Hook up a timing light and keep your eye on the timing marks, and tap on the engine block with a hammer simulating a knock. If the sensor is working properly the timing should change. Like I said , I've never tried this myself.
#20
I had the same code (52) a week ago & my truck was running the same as yours. I took it apart & ended up just having to change the wire to the Sensor. $10.00 part, $110.00 worth of intake gaskets. Stupid location. Anyway, if you're getting a 52, it's either your sensor, or if you wire is chewed up, probably just your wire. That's pretty much all a code 52 is for.