I was doing my valve cover gaskets and when i was putting my half moon pieces back in one slipped and fell straight down into the very first whole in the head and went straight down, not sure where that goes?

Not sure if i need to pull my head off now, or if it went straight down into the oil pan, i cant find schematics or diagrams of the engine ports, it looks like it went down the bigger whole next to the #2 cyclinder.

Any help would be appreciated. 5VZ-FE.

Bryan

 

Just my luck....was just getting ready to button her back up too.

 

Do you have one of those telescoping magnetic stick/poles? That's what I'd use. Stick it down in the hole and see what sticks to it. Unless those pieces are aluminum like the rest of the head...then I don't know.

 

Yeah its aluminum, or else id be done...wish that would work.

 

I thought the half moons where hard rubber,.. perhaps they are reinforced with aluminum?, you could blindly fish for it with a tube grabber but unlikey. Your going to have to pull the engine mounts raise the engine enough to clear the front differential so you can remove the oil pan. I'm not sure how much you need to disconnect to sneak the oil pan out past the oil pick up tube, there is no good way to do it. When I pulled my motors for an engine swap it took me 2 days, 2 motors pulled and 1 installed, I removed the oil pan and replaced rear main oil seal at the same time and at that time I thought to myself if I ever have a oil pan leak I'm gonna be pissed and have to pull the engine to do it properly. There is no gasket for the pan just gasket maker so use Ultra Grey or another high oil resistant silicon.

 

Its a b@@&$. I didnt once. If you can look doen the hole which is an oil return port, and see it stuck in there then you need what i call chinese finger. They are long flexcable thing that has four lil prong fingers and go in there carfeully and grab it. Worked for me! If its all the way through and in the bottom of the oil oan then its time to remove the oil pan. Which if you str 4wd means the front diff has to come out. Which is a bit tough to do st home. Its like taking a swuare peg out of a round hole. Its doable though but there is a stud on the rear mount of the diff that doesnt let you get any clearance between the head and the frame. On older models that section of frame was removable and its a sinch. So you need to fight with it and lift the motor to get the diff flange to clear. Afternthst the oil oan is real easy to do. And dont use silicone!!! Use toyotas fipg black for oil pans. The other crap will leak. You dont want to have to do it again!

 

You don't need to remove the front diff if you lift the engine enough, and I understand everyones trust in toyota products, but just incase you try Permatex Ultra grey you won't be disappointed for oil sealing. Its been on my 4runner oil pan and V-covers for 4 years and I assembled the front engine case of my 30psi Boosted Eclipse 10 years ago no problems ever, use it on anything that seals oil, rebuild manual transmissions with it, still no leaks.
It is interchangeable with the following toyota part #'s, not sure what they are though..
00001-01001 00295-00102 00295-01282
00001-01002 00295-01208

 

Half moons in the "R" series engines are rubber. In the 5vz-fe (at least mine), they are solid metal, no plastic/rubber.

 

Supra- You got freaking lucky haha!

Welp...I pulled the axles, differential, and oil pan today, found my half moon, had to fish it out, took a little while because it is a decent size and hard to get around in the crank area, then with the help of my dad when he got home he worked on getting the engine put back together and i got driveline, differential, and all the bottom goodies put back on. With two guys the truck was nearly put back together minus fluids and axles in 2.5 hrs.

Couldve been ugly, glad i got it take care of. Thanks for the input.

 

Good job man! Thats definitely a bummer to have to do that but hey thats half the fun too.