Yea it, its allows the cool thick coolant to bypass but one it hit about 90-100F then it allows to pass through. This winter it got to be about 35F outside but the B&M cooler let the transmission warm up to and hold 100F.

If you considering going with the Tru-Cool 4454 don't. I had one and the B&M is MUCH better construction PLUS its 1.5" thick vs the Tru-cool is only 3/4" thick

So the B&M is DOUBLE the surface area.

FOG

 

Sometimes thinner is better (when you don't have room for a thicker one) So where did you put that bad boy FOG?

 

My tranny has bee fine for over a year after my last strawberry milkshake. From reading, that has been the consensus and not 'tranny-failure'. I replaced mine with a stock rad and my cooler. I will just do the radiator again in 100k.

 

You last milkshake? Does that mean it happened to you more than once?

 

Bump for pics of the B&M installed.

 

Will try and get some pics tonight when the wife gets home with the 4runner. The wife needed a new car so she talked me into buy a 06 Jeep TJ 6 speed, she SAID she could drive a manual transmission, yeah I should have known better.

So for now I'm driving the Jeep till I can find her another car and get my runner back.

FOG

 

Sorry to hear that. lol

x2 on the photos. I'm torn between the Hayden and B&M.

 

Well as promised here are a few pics of the B&M cooler and my spin on filter mount under the drivers side bumper.















Also for those who asked about my 150 amp alternator





FOG

 

The size of the B&M isn't a issue at all. I pulled the stock radiator and used the zip tie style mounts to attach it to the A/C condenser which gave a really strong mount.

I've seen allot of guys say the zip ties made their radiator or condenser leak,, when I looked at how they installed them they stuck the zip tie ALL the way through from the condenser into the radiator so when they pulled on the zip ties it bent the radiator and condenser towards each other. So pull the radiator and just attach it to the condenser.

I tried a Tru-Cool 4454 here in the Houston summer stop and go heat and it didn't cut it at all. A friend who works at a transmission shop sold me on the B&M because it has twice the surface area of the Hayden or Tru-Cool.

After having it installed for a summer and even a torture test driving up the Colorado mountains it kept the transmission MUCH cooler than the Tru-Cool.

Also I saw someone a couple of posts up installed on of those little inline filters. You should really avoid those because you cannot easily check them and they lack surface area. Because of that they can plug up easy and make your transmission lose pressure. Go with the spin on filter, they are cheap and easy to change.


FOG

 

We're supposed to have filters on the tranny coolers now?

 

No,, your not "supposed" or should I say required to have any filter aside from the stock one inside the transmission pan.

However, the stock filter is nothing more than a piece of window screen which only catches big stuff.

So while I was installing the cooler and had the lines ran over to that side I added a spin on filter mount that allows me to use a standard oil filter to catch ALLOT of the stuff the transmission's internal filter can't.

Also since its mounted in a easy spot I can change it every 15-20K miles.


FOG

 

That would be me, as the description says the Magnefine has a bypass built in.

http://www.autopartsfair.com/all-ext...1f3810011.html
Description:MAGNEFINE MAGNETIC AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AND POWER STEERING FLUID FILTER
3/8 in. inlet/outlet; The powerful magnet removes 99 percent contaminants at filter entrance; The secondary filter membrane captures non-ferrous clutch fibers and other materials; Features high impact polymer casing, a full flow safety by-pass valve and a perforated steel core which eliminates the media from collapsing under high pressure surges.

 

been there done that.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...diator-183036/

 

Still doing good Dallison?

 

no problems at all. For a couple weeks i would some of the remaining trans fluid float to the top of the radiator or in the overflow. Everything is clean and no overheating. It was a pain in the ass though.

 

from reading all of this, I'm thinking of replacing my radiator.
I bought my runner with 70K miles on it. At 100K I had to replace the radiator due to a rock creating a leak.
I now have 200K on the truck, so 100K on the radiator.

I am pretty sure I bought the rad from someplace like an advanced auto or autozone, but cannot remember for certain...

If I bought it from one of these places, it is only around 100 bucks, which I think is great insurance against a possbile tranny failure (heck, even the multiple flushes you would have to do seem to cost an arm and a leg).

So, my question is, are the no name radiators from one of these parts houses good enough, or do I need to look into getting one from a dealer?

cant imagine how much that would cost me....

 

can you show us how you did this? I think alot of us would love to hear how this is done

 

radiator specialty shops have some special oil eating splooge they throw in and it stays in the coolant, and makes the oil collect under the radiator cap or overflow tank as brown mung (yes even red atf turns to brown mung)

it is safe to drive and a lot safer for the coolant lines and seals than just letting
old oil find it's way out. then some months later on, get another flush and it's good. or don't flush. the splooge keeps doing it's work

 

lol, you said splooge...

good to know, i wasn't sure if that type of product existed.

I know having that trans fluid haning around the coolant isn't good at all. I keep monitoring it and all "seems" to be well.

 

that's it. tranny is done. going to get a rebuild at a reputable shop
(this shop has no signs, and doesn't advertise, only word of mouth from
folks in the know basically...I got lucky this guy is nearby)

1) tranny is now not engaging drive after coming to a stop from highway speeds

need to wait 3 minutes, or shift to 1st

2) need to use 1st gear to move, then it starts to function again

but it won't go into reverse, or allow me to engage 4wd lo
while in this state....until it is ready.

3) no real problems if only doing town speeds

4) lost my ability to creep at 1mph and slower for ultra-fine rock crawling, it now bumps and shudders.

problem is not getting better with time, only worse.


----
full Aisin 30-40LE 35000 rebuild is on tap. dropping off tomorrow.
sure it will cost me $$$$, but it is that, or junk it.

I cannot get rid of this woods-buggy I just can't. It's been mine since 1998