Well I began my venture into installing my own brakes today.

This was not just a pad replacement (which I now know is easy as can be), this was supposed to be an upgrade from the 15" model brake system that came with my 96. So I bought calipers from the newer 4runner and I have the rotors and pads ready to go.

To get to the bottom of things, I cant get the rotor off of the truck... I have WD 40d, Hammered, Pryed, and done everything in my power to pull them off. I don't know what else to do. I dont know if there is a mobile mechanic that could help me pry these beasts off. But maybe someone out there has some 1st hand experience in gettin of these heavily rusted rotors.

 

PB Blaster it and then wait a while.

 

Use some PB blaster on it (soak it 3-4 times about every 20 min or so) and then just let it sit for another hour. When you come back, use a 2.5 lb sledge to hit the rotor off from the inside out (hit it on the inside right where the caliper bolts on). Keep spinning the rotor by hand and hit it about every 90 degrees per revolution. It should eventually come loose.....it's alot of elbow grease to work with rusty parts for sure.

 

k thanks, PB Blaster = WD40??

 

PB Blaster = 10X better than WD40

Available at almost any auto parts store.

 

thanks again.

 

Just keep hitting it...they'll come! My 99 went without a prob, but my sisters 01 needed the big hammer and alot of pounding to get it off.
Brett

 

grab a BFH and go to town

 

bfh... hahahaha took a sec but now i get it ehhee

 

Geez, thats crazy how it was on much.

Judging by your topic, I thought you were doing your drums... hah.

 

BFH!! and PB Blaster, as stated. BEST OF LUCK!!

 

BFH and PB Blaster, absolutely worked... now... for some reason I cant disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

I took an open ended 10mm wrench and turned it... nothing... any tips? Im going to soak it in PB, and try again after i get back from the gym. Any tips are appreciated.

 

OH! You should try to take the line off when the caliper is bolted to the knuckle. That bolt is a B**ch to get off if the caliper is loose....
Brett

 

Those bolts, when rusted, can be a bastard to get out. I snapped them off on both sides and had to retap them so sometimes they are beyond the point of return and just need to be redone. If time is on your side, then just keep hitting them with PB Blaster every so often and see if you can get them to loosen up (a propane torch can help the process, but be very careful not to get any heat near the rubber brake lines). The 10mm bolt isn't very strong so either it will come out or you'll snap the head off. You can drive around like that just temporarily long enough to finish the brake job but don't leave it for more than a week or so without a bolt in the bracket.

 

If and when I get the bolt loose, should I be watching my master cylinder for fear of it running dry? or will i be able to stop the flow of Brake fluid with my thumb or by jamming it into the new caliper?

 

Shirley, I think you and I were talking about different things...I was talking about the bracket bolt that holds the rubber line to the steering knuckle....sounds like you are talking about removing the brake line itself at the caliper. To answer your question, yes, you should watch the master cyl and do not, under any circumstances let it run dry (it is best to have a couple 5-6 bottles of DOT3 fluid around just in case and for bleeding later). Can you stop the fluid with your finger? Yes, just about anything you can get to fit tightly will stop the fluid from coming out.

 

try a golf tee if you have one laying around

 

If there is a rubber hose upstream of the bleeder, put a clamp or locking pliers on it. Do not use an open end on the bleeder - use a box wrench...

 

So I strippped the hell out of the bolt on the back of the caliper. I have a feeling maybe I was skipping a step or doing something retarded, but now I need to replace the metal line between the caliper and the MC, I need to replace it.

 

You shouldn't have to replace the whole line... Because you do have a Flex hose between the tube you stripped and the main line coming from the MC... If I'm Mistaken I think that flex hose is attached to your upper-control arm... I hope this helps and hope everything on the brake job is going ok!!

I'll be doing A Tundra Brake Upgrade tomorrow on my 97...