My 4Runner Threw a ROD! *pics*
07-20-2009, 07:42 AM
#101
Believe it or not my old cherry '99 threw a rod about 4 months after I sold it to Anthony (ADH8796).
132k on it when it happened - oil was changed every 3k since I bought it with 85k on it.
I was in it when it happened - over revved I think.
Glad you got it all sorted out and you have a new one in there, the odds of this one failing are slim to none.
Fink
132k on it when it happened - oil was changed every 3k since I bought it with 85k on it.
I was in it when it happened - over revved I think.
Glad you got it all sorted out and you have a new one in there, the odds of this one failing are slim to none.
Fink
I remember that happening now that you mention it. Really does suck!
BTW, I saw a '00 4Runner on craigslist for sale locally about a month ago w/ a blown motor too. Odd we hear as many '99-'00s fail as we do.
07-20-2009, 07:50 AM
#102
For reference, here's what the total cost came to:
1. Stock Motor out of a wrecked '00 w/ 120K miles on it = $1060 including tax.
2. Timing Belt, Drive Belts, Water Pump, T-Stat, Plugs & Wires, Tensioner, Complete Gasket Kit, Oil, Oil Filter & Antifreeze = $550.
(The complete gasket kit at Toyota was $600 by itself! Therefore, I picked up an aftermarket complete gasket kit at a local reputable place for $150.)
We passed on the Idler Pulleys b/c the ones on the new motor were still in great shape. Mech said he would have replaced them if he thought I needed them (saved an addt'l $200 by not purchasing those).
3. Shop Labor = $850 including tax.
(Some places around town quoted me $1700 just for labor...and that was before taxes!)
Grand Total = $2,500.00
1. Stock Motor out of a wrecked '00 w/ 120K miles on it = $1060 including tax.
2. Timing Belt, Drive Belts, Water Pump, T-Stat, Plugs & Wires, Tensioner, Complete Gasket Kit, Oil, Oil Filter & Antifreeze = $550.
(The complete gasket kit at Toyota was $600 by itself! Therefore, I picked up an aftermarket complete gasket kit at a local reputable place for $150.)
We passed on the Idler Pulleys b/c the ones on the new motor were still in great shape. Mech said he would have replaced them if he thought I needed them (saved an addt'l $200 by not purchasing those).
3. Shop Labor = $850 including tax.
(Some places around town quoted me $1700 just for labor...and that was before taxes!)
Grand Total = $2,500.00
07-20-2009, 07:58 AM
#103
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For reference, here's what the total cost came to:
1. Stock Motor out of a wrecked '00 w/ 120K miles on it = $1060 including tax.
2. Timing Belt, Drive Belts, Water Pump, T-Stat, Plugs & Wires, Tensioner, Complete Gasket Kit, Oil, Oil Filter & Antifreeze = $550.
(The complete gasket kit at Toyota was $600 by itself! Therefore, I picked up an aftermarket complete gasket kit at a local reputable place for $150.)
We passed on the Idler Pulleys b/c the ones on the new motor were still in great shape. Mech said he would have replaced them if he thought I needed them (saved an addt'l $200 by not purchasing those).
3. Shop Labor = $850 including tax.
(Some places around town quoted me $1700 just for labor...and that was before taxes!)
Grand Total = $2,500.00
1. Stock Motor out of a wrecked '00 w/ 120K miles on it = $1060 including tax.
2. Timing Belt, Drive Belts, Water Pump, T-Stat, Plugs & Wires, Tensioner, Complete Gasket Kit, Oil, Oil Filter & Antifreeze = $550.
(The complete gasket kit at Toyota was $600 by itself! Therefore, I picked up an aftermarket complete gasket kit at a local reputable place for $150.)
We passed on the Idler Pulleys b/c the ones on the new motor were still in great shape. Mech said he would have replaced them if he thought I needed them (saved an addt'l $200 by not purchasing those).
3. Shop Labor = $850 including tax.
(Some places around town quoted me $1700 just for labor...and that was before taxes!)
Grand Total = $2,500.00
Glad to hear you got it all fixed up!
Fink
09-18-2009, 08:57 PM
#104
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Dang Rock...just read this thread...sorry I wasn't here for you but sounds like you got it fixed. I shed a little tear when I read the first post...I am worried about mine now...it's a 2000 with 88K on it....
09-19-2009, 05:09 PM
#107
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Damn.... Now im scared. I dont wanna throw a rod in my engine. I would be boned cause thats my only mode of transportation and I dont have the money for all that either lol. I guess i can just pray to the yoda gods that it wont happen to mine.
I fear for my 99' now. lol
I fear for my 99' now. lol
09-19-2009, 05:14 PM
#108
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yep just happened to my 99 4runner with only 90k on it. it has nothing to do with low oil or cheap oil. I babied the crap out of mine as well, synthetic oil changes every 5k. i was driving about 45mph down the road no warnings whatsoever. then bang, oil every where and major engine wobble. after doing tons of research, 99's are having major issues. they changed the motor mid year so maybe toyota foresaw something. sucks so bad. 2500 is a great deal for motor and labor. my cheapest quote here was 4500. damn it all!!!!!
09-19-2009, 06:01 PM
#109
What things? Let me guess, you heard something about it on the internets?
09-21-2009, 05:37 AM
#111
09-21-2009, 07:52 AM
#113
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Three years ago would put it in 2006, when you bought it, right? And you also said it was purchased in Texas. Well, Hurricane Rita flooded most of east Texas in the fall of 2005, so it is possible that your 4Runner was partially flooded before you bought it. Even a little water in the oil for a very short time will wreak havoc on bearings. If a bit of water got in the and the truck was run for a bit (or worse, sat for a while) before getting a fluid change, that wouldn't hurt the bearings enough to be immediately noticeable, but enough that something like this happens a couple of years down the road.
It's hard to detect something like that, because a compression test won't reveal it and the engine might run fine for a while and then BAM, rod escapes from the block without warning. The only way you might see it coming is if you sent your oil off to Blackstone Labs for analysis, which I might do on my wife's 2000 Runner the next time I change the oil having read this thread.
It's hard to detect something like that, because a compression test won't reveal it and the engine might run fine for a while and then BAM, rod escapes from the block without warning. The only way you might see it coming is if you sent your oil off to Blackstone Labs for analysis, which I might do on my wife's 2000 Runner the next time I change the oil having read this thread.
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