Hi

I'm happy i found this site. I got my self a 1991 4Runner SR5 , 2 door, 6 cyl, several months ago.
I would like your opinion on a few things.

1- My rear differential makes kind of a grinding noise when moving...and even more when i let go the gas. I'm not sure what to do because different garages are offering different things. One wants to change the entire diff with one from the scrap yard (I don't want to pay $1000 Canadian for a diff that's just as old as mine and could break down in 3 months) Another wants to take my diff appart and change the problem parts with parts from a used diff... And i would think changing the problem parts with new ordered parts from toyota would be better (like bearings, gears, etc...whatever needs to be changed)...what do you guys think?

2- There's a clicking noise coming from the engine (like loose valves/lifters).
The toyota dealer wanted way to much money to do the job. So i asked another garage.
They will do it for alot less....but they are saying that the vales/lifters on my engine do not
need shims to be adjusted....yet the Toyota dealer was telling me it was expensive because of the parts needed like shims. So does my engine need shims for the valves/lifters to be adjusted or not? Are mine mecanical or hydraulic?

-3 I have the saging problem...the rear is like 2" lower then the front end. I've read
a few topics about this but just want opinion for my own truck. I don't use it for off road.
It's just a seconde vehicule especialy for winter and when i go camping and so on.
Is the best thing just to change the coils with new coils with stock specs? The garage
i'm going to now wants to put an air adjustable thing....but since i don't pul anything
or have lots of loads on it....shouldn't i just change the coils instead? A friend also
suggest i put "cargo coils" which are supose to be a little higher then the originals.
I don't want the rear to end up higher then the front so i'm not sure that's a good idea.
If i put new coils with stock specs....how long before the rear sags again?

I guess that's it.
Thanks
DanielG

 

1. Try replacing the fluid in the rear end. Maybe you are low.

2. Probably the fuel injectors. They are notoriously "clicky" on the 3.0.

3. Get a set of new rear coils and you should be good - Downey, Performance Products, or OME will do the trick.

 

Welcome aboard - great looking Runner. Sorry to hear you aren't going to off-road it - sure would make a heck of a trail rig (with alot of mods of course)

Can't help with #1 or #2, but #3 is a different story. If you won't be hauling anything, you might do coil spacers, but I think the better solution is the Performance Products springs. They claim only 1" of lift, I think I got a little more, but they have settled some over the 5 years I've had em.

Good Luck with #1 and 2. Sure there are others who can help.

 

Hello Daniel, and welcome to YotaTech.

My, that is a fine beast you have.
I have seen a few white 2 doors in person before, very rare indeed.

#1. I don't have an answer there.

#2. The fuel injectors on Toyotas can be very noisy.
Make sure it is not them that the mechanics are mistaking the noise for.
Your Toyota dealer is correct. The only way the 3.0 valves can be adjusted is with shims.
I had mine done the summer of '99 as the drivers side was a little bit to noisy.
It requires a good tech to perform that job also, and my dealer put their best tech on the job when I had it done.

#3. Lots of posts here in just the past few weeks on the butt sag issue.
Here is my take on it.
I would put on new coils, especially since you mentioned the word camping.

Here is a pic from a few summers back.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/temp/loaded.jpg
I had a lot more in the back after that pic was taken.

As you can see, I carry a lot of gear back there.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/cargobox/box7.jpg

I run the Downey HD coils, and I got about 2" plus out of the lift, and when loading up the rig, it sits level and does not sag a bit.
It is a tad lower in the rear now, but I have about 300 lb of 4x4 gear back there.

Good coils are the Downey HDs, OME's, and Performance Products.
I run the Downey's as they were a complete kit with a new brake proportioning valve and a stainless steel extended brake line for the rear.

Hope this info is of help to you.
PS, be sure to enter your rig into our Member's Rig area.
I don't think there are any 2 door 2nd gens in there right now.
We have another member here also that has a 2 door like yours.

 

Daniel G,

How many miles are on the runner. Those two doors are exotic looking....

If it doesn't go offroad I would put Performance Products 1"lift Progressive Rate Springs on it(more like 1.5"). Most people on this board say its their best MOD, I would have to agree.

I just installed them this past Sunday. A world of difference. The Progressive Rate springs should give you a slightly softer ride on the road. My 1995 runner is so sweet now that its level, and it rides like a new vehicle.

I would couple the springs with some bilsteins. They are more pricy but according to the board they are great. I stuck gabriels from autozone on it. They do ok, but will likely wear out quickly. You can get the Perf.Prod. Springs from www.performanceproducts.com for 199 plus shipping.

I have seen the bilsteins listed at 55 a piece on the board... Just search for bilstein on the board.

Downeys can be purchsed for around 155 they are cheaper but a little harsher ride.

EVERYONE will agree the coil springs are the way to go regardless of the manufacturer.

Welcome to the board!

Mike

 

Welcome aboard!

Your rear end noise sounds like worn ring and pinion gears to me. This is almost always caused by running with dirty gear oil or no gear oil at all for a long time. The cheapest way to fix it is by replacing the whole diff with a junkyard special that has not been abused in that way. With proper maintainence rear diffs can last forever. Just because its in a junkyard dosen't mean that its junk. The diffs are available for as little as $350 USD if you look around at Car-part.com. I know they can be had for much less than that. There just aren't many listed there now. The rest is labor charges and parts markup that the shop takes. This way you save $400 or so in labor because the gears do not have to be set up.

Your motor has solid lifters and shims according to my crappy Haynes repair manual. Independant shops that specialize in Toyotas are a great way to go compared to dealers' repair shops. I call them "Stealers" instead of dealers because they steal your money. Many independant shops are run by former dealer technitions. The work is just as good and costs 30% less typically.

Adjustable air shocks can be really cool and help save wear on coil springs. If I were you I would get Downey springs with about 1 inch of lift, then as they sag they will be within spec. All springs sag with time. Some just go faster than others. Downey seem to be very popular with 2nd Generation 4Runner owners. Replacment OEM spec. springs will sag pretty quickly.

Again, welcome aboard.

 

1. You can buy a thirdmember for far less than $1000 CDN. Look at some of the vendors here. I think you can find a complete third member with a stock open differentila for around $750 CDN. If you keep an eagle eye open you may find that someone is selling a complete third member because they upgraded to a locker or e-locker. Find out what gears you have stock (likely 4.10 if stick) and perhaps someone here can make you a deal. A junkyard third isn't a bad deal. I don't have the tools to test the mesh pattern of the gears or other differential factors so I'd probably buy a third member from someone who seemed honest rather than trust a junkyard outright.

2. Toyota fuel injectors are loud from this era. If it is indeed the valvaes I wouldn't let just any shop touch them - take it to a Toy dealer. Yes you'll pay more, but what is peace of mind worth to you? If you are lucky enough to have a shop that specializes in Toyotas then by all means go to them. Otherwise, don't trust your car to a Ford or Chevy mechanic.

3. Lot of people using Downey HD springs around here. PP is also popular. I'm ordering Downey HD from Mike at Xtreme Offroad for $169 USD. You could use spacers but since your springs have sagged they probably aren't working like they were supposed to anyway.

 

I forgot to mention - you are one lucky guy to find a two door 4Runner.

 

I guess I'd better keep it on the street

 

Hey Cebby,

I should clear up what I mean. I was talking about ride characteristics. Downeys are notoriously a stiffer ride then th P.P. springs.

A progressive rate spring should give a slightly softer ride which would be better for road conditions...

Why would I knock the springs I just bought when I think its the best set of springs in the world, because they are on my vehicle replacing the stock SLINKY's!!!!!!




THE WAY THE RUNNER SHOULD BE, LEVEL!!!!!

Mike

 

I knew what ya meant - and I agree. Just having some fun with ya.

 

Hi guys

Thanks for all the info. I'll try to decide what to do now.

Hokiez97, it has 204,000 km (about 125,000 miles)

Hey, does anyone know what would be the best repair manual for my 1991 4Runner SR5 V6 ? I can't find one from Haynes, unless it's the one that says "All Pick ups" .

My Toyota dealer says they can no longer get the real one from Toyota.

I did find one from Chilton ........

Chilton Total Car® Repair Manuals
TOYOTA 4Runner 1989-96
part number : 68602

Is this thing any good? Or is there something better?

Thanks again
DanielG

 

I have the Chilton book. In my opinion it covers too many models and years. Slapping the Tacoma in there is just plain confusing since it's motor and suspension are totally different than the earlier truck or T100. That said, it has some good sections but it certainly doesn't substitute for a good factory service manuel. Start hunging on E-bay for those.

 

I have the Haynes manual, got it for about $15 at Pep Boys. If you make a trip to the States, you might pick it up; you might find it at Canadian Tire as well.

My manual says Toyota Pick-Ups and 4Runner, the # is 92075. It has proven essential for the brake job I performed, and the front half-shaft replacement.

Not nearly as specific as the factory manual would be, you might find one on eBay. Just make sure it is the real thing, and not some CD that someone has illegally made.

Nice looking 2 door by the way.

 

Here is the 2nd gen manual on CD.

It was an EBay item, and a member is hosting it.
I'm not sure if it's totaly factory or not, but I have the whole 20 Zip file, and have looked at a few of the PDFs, and they go into a lot of detail.

 

Thanks to whoever put that one up. I downloaded it a few days ago. Now I have it burned to CD - I can take the laptop out to the truck with me and look at the factory service manual. You'll see that Chilton recylces almost all the pictures from the manuel in theirs, just their descriptions for repairs suck.

 

Victor, do you think that CD is really taken from the factory manuals?

I have only looked up a few things in it so far.
I can see where it would help if you had it on a lap top while working in the garage.

 

Thanks for the link Corey....cool.

Is everything on the 4runner in the 20m zip file or should i download all of them, including all the PDF files?

Thanks again

 

They are all in that 20 mb Zip file I'm pretty sure.
I should load it onto my laptop as well.

 

DanielG,

Nice looking rig and welcome to Yotatech! I was curious about your front grille--did you paint it black or was it already that way when you picked it up? The chrome on my 91 is starting to wear off and I've considered painting it black (since replacing it with another chrome one will cost over $200!). Seeing your picture makes me think that it'll look pretty darn good!

I've noticed from the previous posts that nobody (not even Corey!!!) mentioned anything about the front torsion bars. If you replace your springs and the back end is higher than the front, you can raise the front end by adjusting the torsion bars. It's as simple as adjusting a bolt underneath the vehicle. If you search for torsion bar on yotatech, you'll find links to articles on how to adjust them.

Great rig and nice color (almost the same shade as mine ).

Matt