Manual Locking Hubs
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Manual Locking Hubs
Ok, So after 3 days of reading through the forums I am looking to have some information verified. My question is if I install a set of manual locking hubs and have them dis engaged what would happen if the 4wd was for some reason engaged inside the cabin? Also is there any problem with leaving the manual hubs locked all winter while changing the truck in and out of 4wd from the cabin? I ask because my wife will be driving the truck and I want to make sure she does not have to get out of the truck in a snow storm and turn the manual locking hubs to get it into 4wd. I would really just like to leave it engaged all the time while she has the truck and tell her it is ok to switch from 2wd to 4wd if she needs to. In the Spring Summer Fall I would keep them unlocked as I will spend most of my time in 2WD and hopefully that shoudl save some wear and tear on the front end right?
I ask because I am looking into buying a 95 4runner with 120k for around $3900 this week. It is a 4x4 and has the rear end sag. If I buy it am going to do the HD coils in rear to raise it back up and crank the torsion bars to even it out. And while im at it I would do the manual hub switch if the above info is true.
I ask because I am looking into buying a 95 4runner with 120k for around $3900 this week. It is a 4x4 and has the rear end sag. If I buy it am going to do the HD coils in rear to raise it back up and crank the torsion bars to even it out. And while im at it I would do the manual hub switch if the above info is true.
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Go to manual. Less stress on CVs. People have left them locked for the winter with no prob. I might do the same. If the 4wd engages with them unlocked, nothing will happen but your front diff and axle shafts turning, no power to wheels. I did this swap and it's cheap and easy as pie.
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i am getting manual hubs this week... yes you can run it UNLOCKED in 4wd, it give you a "fake" 2LO setting (4LO unlocked). and i am pretty sure you wont have a problem leaving them LOCKED all winter, right now with the ADD system, they are bascily locked all the time.
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I just did the conversion, running "locked" is just like running stock with the factory ADD flanges....
Get a brass punch set at harbor freight for 10$
Get PB blaster
Gaskets are 6$ @ dealer both sides inner and outer
Tourque spec on the dial bolts 9ft/lbs the bodies are aluminum so be careful not to strip.
I used an old wood chisel (sharp) to separate the brass cap from the hub flange to get at the axle bolt under it.
Get a brass punch set at harbor freight for 10$
Get PB blaster
Gaskets are 6$ @ dealer both sides inner and outer
Tourque spec on the dial bolts 9ft/lbs the bodies are aluminum so be careful not to strip.
I used an old wood chisel (sharp) to separate the brass cap from the hub flange to get at the axle bolt under it.
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#9
for a 3rd gen, it'll cost around 300-400 dollars for parts and labor, its no where near as easy as it is for 2nd gens.
cheapest way to do it - http://www.sonoransteel.com/junk_yard_manual_hubs.html
cheapest way to do it - http://www.sonoransteel.com/junk_yard_manual_hubs.html
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And also if you live where its snowy or icy in winter and have to use 4wd on the road - you will regret having a front locker. Makes it really squirrely to drive...
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I never checked my mileage after I swapped but then again I never ran it locked on the road. But it seem to run better with the axles not spinning on the freeway.
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Originally Posted by garrett1478
really...? i've read that some people don't notice a difference in mileage at all.....
Made no difference whatsover for me on mileage. It feels only slightly different, not enough that I could swear it's not just my imagination.
#16
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Shifting into 4wd while the hubs are unlocked and you are moving isn't a good idea. The Cvs, diff and driveshaft are not moving but the transmission and transfer case are. Suddenly shifting into 4wd would cause unpleasantness.
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
Made no difference whatsover for me on mileage. It feels only slightly different, not enough that I could swear it's not just my imagination.
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sorry to come in late, i did a run with some other yotatech members last weekend and the conclusion was that my 4x4 was not engaging. my mechanic called and suggested i switch to manual locking instead of the auto to save some money. is there an advantage or disadvantage to the manual? besides actual 4wheeling adventures, i would use it on road up at mount hood in the snow this winter. what part of the manual locking hub makes road driving sketchy?
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Hi Jen
Manual hubs are a nice swap mostly because you can run them unlocked for all the highway miles. Less wear and tear on the CV boots and drive train (I haven't had to change CV boots since I went to manual hubs on my '89). Maybe you will see a small boost in gas mileage..maybe not.
I do not think your 4wheel drive problem has anything to do with your hubs.
Most likely it is either the electrical switch or vacuum line.
I would suggest having a experienced Toyota mechanic check it out.
I have had the 4-wheel drive system fail on my '89 truck two times.
First time, the vacuum line came loose.
Second time, the electrical switch needed to be replaced.
Good luck...let us know what you find out!
Jim
I do not think your 4wheel drive problem has anything to do with your hubs.
Most likely it is either the electrical switch or vacuum line.
I would suggest having a experienced Toyota mechanic check it out.
I have had the 4-wheel drive system fail on my '89 truck two times.
First time, the vacuum line came loose.
Second time, the electrical switch needed to be replaced.
Good luck...let us know what you find out!
Jim
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Huge advantage to manual hubs - they don't break! If yours are really the originals from 88 then you must have the last set still in existence...
You can leave em locked when driving in winter conditions and shift in and out of 4wd when needed.
You can leave em locked when driving in winter conditions and shift in and out of 4wd when needed.