I need to replace the lower control arm of my 1997 2.7 Tacoma 4X4. Unfortunately, I discovered the adjustment cams running through the lower control arm bushings are frozen in place. I’m ordering new cams, but I’d like recommendations for removing the cams without too much effort or further complicating the lower control arm removal. The best idea I’ve come up with, so far, would be to use my woodworking pipe clamps to press them out (after protecting the nut end of the cam by placing a large head bolt through the cam first and putting shims around the other end of the cam for the pipe clamp to rest on). I applied PB Blaster and a 50/50 mix of ATF & acetone, but I couldn’t get it to break free. I didn’t want to use the pipe clamp until I had replacement cams on hand, as this is my only transportation. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

If your cams came with the bolts (I think my cams slipped off the flat sided bolts) use a big f'n hammer. If you need to save the bolts put the nut on flush with the end of the bolt, apply pressure with your clamp and give it a wake up tap with a hammer. That's the only advice I can think to give.

 

I was able to unscrew and remove the bolts, allowing the nut on the other end to fall off, but the cam stayed frozen inside the bushing. I can't remove the lower control arm without first removing this cam. I'm surprised the cams aren't well greased before insertion (to keep moisture out and reduce the likelihood of corrosion). I plan to reuse the old bolt & nut, so I don't want to mess with them.

 

if you got the bolt out and the cam is inside the bushing I must be thinking of a different set up.

 

Here is an aftermarket solution by Moog:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...68079024740221
This has been reported to not stay torqued.

Here is what mine looks like:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnhFeJX0YoriqlI8BpX6qlIh14xR

More pictures:
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling....52-35020-3.jpg
http://s126.photobucket.com/user/gle...35050.png.html

 

from my past experience where a bolt or a sleeve goes through a rubber bushing it will often take a LOT of cussing and beating to break it loose. Sometimes I have had to burn the rubber out. Just applying pressure with a c clamp or bearing press may not be enough, get some pressure on it an smack the press or clamp with a hammer for some shock load. good luck!

 

Strange, as it is designed to be able to be turned to adjust the alignment.

 

They probably haven't been moved since 1997. Even if it has had an alignment it may not have needed caster and camber adjustment. I used to be an alignment tech and I would often run into vehicles that just needed a toe adjustment or customers who didn't have an alignment done until they noticed abnormal tire wear (or it was pointed out to them). if you have a spare tire underneath the back of your truck you might want to exercise the little winch retractor, pull the tire down and grease it. It might be a solid ball of rust if your truck originated in the salt belt states.

 

This truck doesn't show signs of being from a salt belt state, but everyone drives through water at one time or another. I have no problem raising and lowering my spare, but I will grease it up well the next time I lube my truck.

What are your thoughts about the Moog alternative. Though I can see the value of heavily greasing everything, I'm sensing the original equipment looks more heavy duty and can probably handle greater torquing. I can get the Moog for about $10 more, but I'm not really sold on the idea. Do you feel Moog makes sense here?

 

The grease-able option will be weaker, it's drilled out for a grease passage. it's a great idea to pump grease in there occasionally, but honestly who is going to keep up with that? many people ignore the lube part of a Lube/Oil/Filter job and if you go to a quickie lube place they are not likely to look for extra grease zerks. if you do your own service and plan to do it right, why not?

 

I do my own maintenance, including lubing, but the weaker bolt is a concern of mine. Here is what someone wrote on Amazon:
1.0 out of 5 stars These look good and have a grease fitting in the end of ...
By Timothy D. Nares on June 20, 2016
Verified Purchase These look good and have a grease fitting in the end of the bolts. But they don't stay tightened. Came loose enough to cause problems after very few miles. I recommend using the "genuine Toyota parts" for this item.

 

I'm finally getting around to doing this job this weekend. I removed the center bolt and then inserted another bolt in the opposite direction and have been pounding on it with my 2 1/2 # hammer, but nothing happens. I'm thinking of putting a bottle jack between the front and back cams on this LCA, but I'm concerned about bending something. I'm thinking I may be better off just cutting through the cams, though I'm not sure exactly where to make the cut. I sense the front side of the bushing needs to be cut through the rubber bushing, while the back side needs to be cut between the washer and the bracket. Is this accurate? I have plenty of Lennox Gold blades, so I should be able to cut through. What are your thoughts?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnhFeJX0YorisSWjBECkpcSk1Cmj

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnhFeJX0YoriqlDeOQKUuGilRfeF

 

The job is done, and it wasn't as difficult as I anticipated. I found the Lennox Gold blades to work very well, though it was more challenging to do the back side of the LCA, as the brakes blocked the view. Keeping the blades lubricated allowed them to cut better. I spent more time figuring out what I was going to do than actually doing the work. The Moog replacement LCA fit perfectly, and I'll get the alignment checked on Tuesday.

 

That is exactly what I ended up doing. Absolutely nothing at all made them budge even the slightest, but 40 - 50 minutes with a sawzall and the LCA was on the ground.

I gooped up the new parts with anti-seize, but I don't have much hope that they'll come apart any better if I ever need to.

 

I gooped up my parts with Super Lube, as I've heard too much negative about anti-seize drying up over time and being pretty useless. I ran it by the Super Lube manufacturers, and they said Super Lube should hold up over time. I'm off to the alignment shop now.