lights on stock roof rack
#22
don't put lights up top. they are nothing but limb/tree magnets when you wheel and a set of 3 lights at $100+ dollars each can become worthless pretty quick on the right trail. you want to get as much ground clearance while staying as low as possible - that's the name of the game for wheeling. why ruin that w/ lights up top? they also will glare in the hood and you'll end up not using them.
you want some lights? get some IPF900's for the front grill guard - actually, get rid of the grill guard and get a $400 TJM T17 and then sell the grill guard for $200 - then get the 130W IPF 900's for about $240 for a set including harness. wire them up w/ the brights on your OEM stick w/ a cutoff switch. then get some IPF 924's (55W fogs) w/ some housings for fogs and mount them on there (and wire them up to the OEM fog circuit) and ditch the OEM fogs. then you'll have more light output than 5 cheaper 55W lights and you'll have them low to the ground where they should be and where they're more effective and won't get in the way wheeling.
you want some lights? get some IPF900's for the front grill guard - actually, get rid of the grill guard and get a $400 TJM T17 and then sell the grill guard for $200 - then get the 130W IPF 900's for about $240 for a set including harness. wire them up w/ the brights on your OEM stick w/ a cutoff switch. then get some IPF 924's (55W fogs) w/ some housings for fogs and mount them on there (and wire them up to the OEM fog circuit) and ditch the OEM fogs. then you'll have more light output than 5 cheaper 55W lights and you'll have them low to the ground where they should be and where they're more effective and won't get in the way wheeling.
Last edited by bamachem; 10-25-2005 at 12:32 PM.
#23
Originally Posted by bamachem
don't put lights up top. they are nothing but limb/tree magnets when you wheel and a set of 3 lights at $100+ dollars each can become worthless pretty quick on the right trail. you want to get as much ground clearance while staying as low as possible - that's the name of the game for wheeling. why ruin that w/ lights up top? they also will glare in the hood and you'll end up not using them.
im not saying im doing this tomorrow... but thanks for the opinion. i need to do some thinking before i do some spending.
sliders are on their way to me and should be on soon.. my next thought is front protection... which will determine my lighting scheme as well
#24
Originally Posted by bamachem
don't put lights up top. they are nothing but limb/tree magnets when you wheel and a set of 3 lights at $100+ dollars each can become worthless pretty quick on the right trail. you want to get as much ground clearance while staying as low as possible - that's the name of the game for wheeling. why ruin that w/ lights up top? they also will glare in the hood and you'll end up not using them.
Yes, they are limb grabbers.
Hella 500s are no where near $100 each.
Can't comment on usefullness on the trail, but they are great to have on the road.
if aimed properly, hella 500s won't glare on your hood and they are still very useable.
I've got 4 500s on the front of my rack and I love them, I use them all the time, in addition to the 4000s that are on my bumper.
#25
Originally Posted by lee
my next thought is front protection... which will determine my lighting scheme as well
Something else to think about... roof-mounted lights will add noticable wind noice, especially at highway speeds, especially without some kind of valence/wind deflector thing. They will also add more drag, which will affect your gas mileage. How much it affects your MPG is hard to say... I doubt very much, but it might be noticable. 1 mpg maybe???
#26
http://4by4connection.com/j01drivfogco.html
another option to bet more light options without ten differnt lamps
another option to bet more light options without ten differnt lamps
#27
Here's a pic of my rig, fwiw...
fogs in the bumper
driving lights on the bumper
driving lights on the rack (wired and working, no problem)
thule wind deflector to reduce wind noise (highly recommended)
*not pictured* also have a pair of fog lights on the back of the rack - backup lights
fogs in the bumper
driving lights on the bumper
driving lights on the rack (wired and working, no problem)
thule wind deflector to reduce wind noise (highly recommended)
*not pictured* also have a pair of fog lights on the back of the rack - backup lights
Last edited by jacksonpt; 10-25-2005 at 12:44 PM.
#29
Originally Posted by jacksonpt
If that's the case... think about getting a good set of lights to put on your bumper, maybe a set of fogs as well... then you are covered for poor visibility driving (fogs) and highway driving (driving lights). Drive with that setup for a while and see what you think.
Originally Posted by jacksonpt
Something else to think about... roof-mounted lights will add noticable wind noice, especially at highway speeds, especially without some kind of valence/wind deflector thing. They will also add more drag, which will affect your gas mileage. How much it affects your MPG is hard to say... I doubt very much, but it might be noticable. 1 mpg maybe???
#30
Originally Posted by FilthyRich
http://4by4connection.com/j01drivfogco.html
another option to bet more light options without ten differnt lamps
another option to bet more light options without ten differnt lamps
#31
I have lights on my roof, I Have yet to rip one off/break one and I go down some pretty wooded trails. They seem to be able to handle whatever I throw at them. with that having been said I know what Bama is talking about. As I have seen them become flying saucers after hitting tree branches.
I have the KC Hilite Bar on my roof. It works pretty well.
I have the KC Hilite Bar on my roof. It works pretty well.
#32
i dont know if you have your mounting options set on but what i did for my highlift is fab a bracket.
The stock rack runners (on my 2nd gen) take a standard 3/8's carage bolt. (upsidedown)
take a 1/4x1" piece of bar stock and cut them to 2" lenght. 2 holes in it, 1 for the upside down mount bolt, the other for the light mount. WIth each light individual you can easy space them back and forth on the rack depending on 3 or 4 or 2 etc
wires run next to the rails on the roof, to the back, in through the gate (on your 3rd gen) behind the plasitc trim at the rear corner and ties into wireing run to that point. either inside the truck, or up from underneath.
The stock rack runners (on my 2nd gen) take a standard 3/8's carage bolt. (upsidedown)
take a 1/4x1" piece of bar stock and cut them to 2" lenght. 2 holes in it, 1 for the upside down mount bolt, the other for the light mount. WIth each light individual you can easy space them back and forth on the rack depending on 3 or 4 or 2 etc
wires run next to the rails on the roof, to the back, in through the gate (on your 3rd gen) behind the plasitc trim at the rear corner and ties into wireing run to that point. either inside the truck, or up from underneath.
Last edited by snap-on; 10-25-2005 at 12:58 PM.
#33
Originally Posted by jacksonpt
Here's a pic of my rig, fwiw...
fogs in the bumper
driving lights on the bumper
driving lights on the rack (wired and working, no problem)
thule wind deflector to reduce wind noise (highly recommended)
*not pictured* also have a pair of fog lights on the back of the rack - backup lights
fogs in the bumper
driving lights on the bumper
driving lights on the rack (wired and working, no problem)
thule wind deflector to reduce wind noise (highly recommended)
*not pictured* also have a pair of fog lights on the back of the rack - backup lights
#35
Lee, if you want to put fog lamps into your bumper (like the OEM foglamps), PM me with your address, and Ill mail you a pair of brackets and some pictures of how I mounted mine.
You can get the lamps at WalMart for $18/pair. Theyre 55W, and plenty bright. (From my observation, theyre brighter than stock ones)
You can get the lamps at WalMart for $18/pair. Theyre 55W, and plenty bright. (From my observation, theyre brighter than stock ones)
Last edited by Gangus2006; 10-25-2005 at 01:45 PM.
#37
Lee,
I check out the Universal MightyMount and it looks like it will work depending on the way the light and the wiring are setup. http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod...cat=REI_SEARCH
I check out the Universal MightyMount and it looks like it will work depending on the way the light and the wiring are setup. http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod...cat=REI_SEARCH
#39
As for the ideas.
I have both setups you are thinking about. A custom safari rack with 4 hella 550's facing forward (2 kc's in the back for backup), and yakima rack with q-clips in the front. Either one or the other is on the truck at any point. At this time with gas being painfull the rack is off and the bars are on.
I don't see any way of putting lights that far near the front of the roof the wiring has no place to go. I put the wire near the back through the rear roof rack end caps, you can see the wire near the right edge of the picture. It has been there for 2 yrs or so and it has not leaked (silicone is your friend). The wiring has quick disconnects on it so when I do go to NYC, I can take it off and I can park in a garage, because as you already know that is a pain. With a rack like this you don't fit many places, or get charged extra.
As for the lights they do help, I have them wired with 4 100watt bulbs, with those the 2 hella 500's with 100 watts on the bumper, the 2 hella micro fogs, and the stock headlamps, there is very little I cannot see on a dark road in the middle of nowhere.
I have both setups you are thinking about. A custom safari rack with 4 hella 550's facing forward (2 kc's in the back for backup), and yakima rack with q-clips in the front. Either one or the other is on the truck at any point. At this time with gas being painfull the rack is off and the bars are on.
I don't see any way of putting lights that far near the front of the roof the wiring has no place to go. I put the wire near the back through the rear roof rack end caps, you can see the wire near the right edge of the picture. It has been there for 2 yrs or so and it has not leaked (silicone is your friend). The wiring has quick disconnects on it so when I do go to NYC, I can take it off and I can park in a garage, because as you already know that is a pain. With a rack like this you don't fit many places, or get charged extra.
As for the lights they do help, I have them wired with 4 100watt bulbs, with those the 2 hella 500's with 100 watts on the bumper, the 2 hella micro fogs, and the stock headlamps, there is very little I cannot see on a dark road in the middle of nowhere.